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headlights

rjc157

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Just purchased halogen headlights and for some reason the left side is bright and the right side is dull I switched the bulbs thinking it might be bad but the same thing do I need relays on them to make them work or just go back to non halogen alt seems to be working reads 14+ and with all lights on reads 13+ have to add that at idle the rpm's do drop but lights stay the same brightness could it be the alt,my next step is to check the wiring and see if there is any corrosion on the connectors and run new wiring
 

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
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That's the longest sentence I've read in quite a while, lol.
Not sure why one side is brighter, but you should put a relay in line or you'll burn out the dash switch.
 

BLU_HLY

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Check your ligthts By Charles Hart

Ever since I finished the BN1, the low beam was never brighter than a parking light. High beam seemed to be OK. I thought maybe the current was too great so I installed relays for both the high & low beams. That change didn't improve matters. Bought new sealbeam bulbs - didn't help! Taking a 4700 mile trip with poor lighting is no fun! Finally after checking the three prongs on a spare sealbeam for the correct post using an ammeter, it was discovered that the high beam and ground were interchanged on the plug. The "headlight pigtail and plug assembly" from a British Parts Supplier was incorrect (black plug) and they never notified me that they sold a defective part. The new pigtail (transparent plug) from the same supplier is correct. For those - I'm sure there are many - who have dim low beams, check the headlight pigtail. I switched the wires at the plug and now I have lights!!!!
 

andrea

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Hi ALL
Recently in USA are disponible LED lamps (Cina supplier) - efficiency 3xnormal H4 lamp- dissipation 30W, 1/2xnormal H4 lamp - 3000 Lumen each- 6000K ....(NOT COMMERCIAL INTEREST )
https://www.ebay.com/itm/G2-CREE-H4...-HEAD-LIGHT-DUAL-HI-LO-BEAM-FIT-/111426009144
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CREE-H...0W-6000-K-Lumen-HEAD-Light-Lamp-/121347374692
I have just ordered this for my Norton Commando 1974 that have some Electrical problem with H absorption lamps-
and waiting to value the possibility for fit it also on my MG TD 1952 with poor dynamo
Good solution for avoid switch problems and relays solutions- and for low powered Dynamo cars- with increased night driving SAFETY
https://www.ebay.it/itm/8-16V-H4-Hi...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2590bf4188
dimensions permit to fit all inside the lamp case, including the ballast- the rubber protection must be eliminated - LED lamp have one cooling fan inside for better dissipation! -
but Heat are very restrained compared to iodio lamps
easy connection with H4 socket, and compatible with Negative or Positive GROUND wiring
 

andrea

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Hi Steve
LED Headlamps, Situation and prices are in rapid evolution, for this reason, I have ordered one only for my motorcycle -(TWO LED HL actually are priced 50-60 USD, two weeks ago 90-100 USD)
when it arrive from Kong Hong (sic !) I revert with photos, inside the lamp case, and results
Cheers
 

HealeyRick

Yoda
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Ralph,

I just had an unexpected issue with my headlight relays. When I installed my halogen lamps and my dash mounted headlight dip switch,



I bought a "heavy duty headlight wiring harness" with relays from LMC trucks for about $30 to make the wiring a bit easier. Everything worked fine until last month my low beams stopped working. Turns out, I found out online the relays weren't waterproof or moisture proof and rust internally. My low -beam relay had failed after driving the car in one good thunderstorm. I bought some new relays and used lots of dielectric grease in the connection, but if that fails, I'll be looking to buy some weatherproof relays and connectors. Just something for you to be aware of.
 

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
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Would it help if the relay were placed inside the car, under the dash for example?
Where are yours?
 

RAC68

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Hi Ralph,

Just read about your problem with one light being brighter then the other and, since you haven’t added relays or changed wiring gauge, would attribute it to wiring and differences in connector resistance. The initial gauge used in the original headlight circuit is quite light and each pressure connector between your switch (power source) and light draw will diminish flow. The creation of a power circuit with properly positioned relays will allow you to use your original circuit as a switching circuit and allow the newly constructed power circuit to be created with higher gauge wire to easily carry greater amperage loads.

As I see it, our electrical systems were designed to handle a total electrical draw of around 23 Amps. Many of us have exceeded this number by a substantial amount and left the system protected with a prayer. Between the use of light gauge original wiring and resistance-prone multi-connectors and switches between power source and light, I would definitely recommend the creation of a power lighting circuit with relays and circuit breaker. Since your original circuit and switch will be in the switching circuit, only the small amount of power needed to switch the relays will be required to flow through the older circuit and switches and a presentation of originality will be maintained.

Take a look at this document that describes such and arrangement and uses much heavier wire to carry more then enough amperage from power source to lighting destination. Today, I would add a circuit breaker to the power circuit.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx...TgwYTQ5Y2E5/edit?usp=sharing&authkey=CLno7ZkC

Good luck,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
Last edited:

HealeyRick

Yoda
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Would it help if the relay were placed inside the car, under the dash for example?
Where are yours?

It would probably help, but the wiring harness isn't long enough for them to reach there. They are mounted under the fender next to the right headlight now. I drove through a soaking rainstorm yesterday, so we'll see if the dielectric grease is the cure.
 

andrea

Jedi Knight
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