Hardtop-to-Shroud Seal

[Healey Nut]

Does this look right for the way the seal should fit to the base rail of the hardtop ?

 

[Healey Nut]

So I’ve done more looking and research .
this pic shows three seals .
left seal is a section of the new seal that all the usual suspects sell to use as a hardtop perimeter seal .
middle seal is a section of the original seal off the front header rail on my hardtop where it sits on the windshield frame . I assume it would be the same for the rear shroud to body seal but there is nothing on my hardtop to prove this .
right seal is a piece of the original seal from around where the side screens would seal against the hardtop .
The seal provided by all the usuals is poor to say the least and they expect you to use this as well for around the window openings as they say the original window seals are now NLA .
So I’m looking for an alternative .
Im waiting for an answer from McGregor but Ian can be hard to pin down and get hold of .
Does anyone recognize the seal sections from off other British iron ?
they can’t have only been used on Healeys .

 

[healeyblue]

Here is how I did the rear seal on the hardtop I restored.

 

[healeyblue]

Here are some pics of before the resto.

 

[Healey Nut]

Tks for those pics .
so you used the kit that came from Moss I imagine . That’s the same kit sold by the usuals . Do you find the seal thick enough to create a seal ?
My concern is that the edge of the aluminum that points down toward the body will damage the paint as the seal isn’t thick enough to support the hardtop off the body .
Also did you get the proper seals for round the window openings in your kit ?
was your original seal on the rear shroud the same as on the front header / windshield section ?

 

[healeyblue]

Yes I think the kit was from Moss. The seal seems fine. The trim has about a quarter inch gap between the shroud paint. I think the side seals are correct. They fit against the side curtains bout as good as i can expect. I think both front and rear seals were the same cross section. I just looked through more pics and see that there is a flat strip of rubber that gets glued down at the rear before the moulded seal gets glued in place. This may help space the rear up away from the paint also.

 

[healeyblue]

Here you can see a flat rubber glued down prior to me putting the molded seal in place

 

[Healey Nut]

I guess I could always add a second layer of the flat strip rubber before the actual seal to make the top sit that tiny bit higher on the body ?
I just need to find an alternate seal for round the windows and I think Bristleflex may work for that .

 

[CaptRandy]

If you look at Healeyblue's pic you will see the second layer of rubber that is glued to the hardtop before you attach rubber with the ciips.

 

[Healey Nut]

If you look at Healeyblue's pic you will see the second layer of rubber that is glued to the hardtop before you attach rubber with the ciips.

I see that , I was considering adding two layers of rubber strip prior to the foam seal to make the top sit higher off the car .
Im also waiting for an answer from McGregor to see if they have something closer to the profile of the original seal.
Tks .

 

[John Turney]

I got my seals from BCS in Stockton. I agree that the seal on the right looks like my sidescreen seals. I can't see the others without taking the top off.

 

[Rob Glasgow]

Healey nut, test fit the double flat pieces and final seal. You may find if you add to many layers of rubber around the back that the sides of the hardtop will not sit on the cockpit railings behind the doors.

 

[Healey Nut]

Healey nut, test fit the double flat pieces and final seal. You may find if you add to many layers of rubber around the back that the sides of the hardtop will not sit on the cockpit railings behind the doors.

For sure there will be many test fits as is typical when rebuilding these old girls