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Front-End Rebuild Begins!! ['78 1500]

tosoutherncars

Jedi Knight
Offline
Hi all,

Great news! Took Milo to the garage yesterday (Union Auto, just west of Ottawa) to have his safety inspection done. A big thanks to J-P for the front turn signal lights, which worked beautifully.

Only failing points were:

- one backup light bulb,
- play in the p/side front wheel bearing,
- play in the steering knuckles.

I was anticipating a front-end rebuild, so that's no problem... I'm just particularly happy that they didn't find anything else that needs fixing! And, I already have new tie-rod ends, steering rack gaiters, tapered roller bearings, and a full PolyBush kit sitting on the shelf.

I'm using a couple of different webpages, and the workshop manual, as guides. See https://www.teglerizer.com/midgetstuff/suspension.htm for some good pictures.

So, started dissasembly yesterday. Front end jacked way up in the air, all weight off the wheels. Wheels off, steering disconnected, pushed the A-arms down and the spring fell right out. Lovely! Yanked the caliper off and hung it in the wheelwell, to avoid having to bleed all over again. I have new metal braided Goodridge hoses though, so I suppose I should bite the bullet.

With much prying and smacking, I finally got the inner A-arm connections undone - bushings totally shot, collapsed rubber, etc. What a mess this must make of the steering geometry... it's no wonder my tires were wearing heavily on the edges!

Now, we come to my first QUESTION... I'm having a bit of trouble separating the A-arm from the kingpin / hub assy. There is a very small nut & washer on the bottom of the joint, which I have removed (exposing a small threaded bolt end.) Then there's the large slotted bolt-end, which I haven't tried too hard to remove yet, since I *thought* there was some sort of offset pin that had to pull first. Can anyone shed some light on this?

Pix to follow, as I reassemble. I'm also considering recoating the wheelwell in rubberised 'rocker-guard', since brake fluid has removed the paint in several places. I know this will not be 'stock', since it should be body-coloured, but I'm more interested in durability and rust protection than concours points!

Expect to be finished this weekend, unless the dating life picks up significantly! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
OP
tosoutherncars

tosoutherncars

Jedi Knight
Offline

Bugeye58

Yoda
Offline
That tapered pin can be a bear to remove, but it <u>has</u> to come out to remove the fulcrum pin. There definitely should be new ones in the kit, as they are normally destroyed removing them.
Jeff
 
OP
tosoutherncars

tosoutherncars

Jedi Knight
Offline
frontsuspension.jpg


There's the image, for anyone who's doing a similar job.
 

Billm

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Duncan
Just bite the bullet and use a grinding wheel or torch to seperate them (I prefer grinding them to save the brazed-in bushings in the "A" arms). I just cut away the king pin and start the rebuild.
Bill
 

JPSmit

Moderator
Staff member
Silver
Country flag
Offline
The pin - 19 - should pound right out. then if you're lucky the bolt - 12 - will unscrew. As a California car I'm hopeful for you - On mine, one did, one didn't had to cut out the didn't.

Mine are reassembled if you need pics (they are off the car)

BTW - FWIW - The washer I coldn't figure out what to do with was - 20 - seated at the bottom of the dust caps.

Go at it!
 

kcbugeye1275

Jedi Knight
Offline
Agree with above. If all else fails, when removing you can have the arm linebored and then bolt with a high grade bolt. Undercoating is the way to go in the wheel wells. Good luck with both your future things to do.
 

blkcorvair

Jedi Knight
Offline
cut both mine with a grinding wheel. Sawsall too slow. Onlt took a moment. Slapped new kingpins and fulcrum pins in while I was there but old king pins looked great coming out. (now Ive got some spares.)
 
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