Clunk in the rear when shifting

[Jim_Gruber]

Put Bugsy back up on jack stands tonight to fix a few things. Clunk in the rear end when shifting. Tranny bolts seem tight, driveshaft is tight, other than a bad universal WTH else is there that would cause a loud and very much felt clunk in the driveline. Everything feels tight. Will grease U Joint see if that helps.

Coolant dripping underneath. Crap heater valve leaking at the base. Found a spare gasket in the garage. Something else to fix and then on to the brakes.

 

[hcallaway]

I admire how you have stuck with sorting the Bugeye out on a daily basis and how fast it got back on the road.

 

[Billm]

Jim
Tighten the shock bolts (REALLY tighten them!! ) and see if that helps
BillM

 

[SaxMan]

I'd suspect U-Joint. We used to have a Chevy Van that we used to haul band gear that would spit out its U-Joints on a regular basis -- so we learned to be attuned to that clunk sound.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Bill,

Tube Shocks back there for now but will give that a try while Bugsy is up in the air. After seeing John Twists warnings about Tube Shocks...Everyone else can look it up on the University Motors Site.

Will be going back to 4 of Peter C.'s along with Disks and Front Suspension Rebuild best when I pull Bugsy off the road to paint. Right now I just want to ride.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Bill, I'll get out the 1/2 or maybe 3/4" Breaker Bar and the bib sockets to tighten.

 

[Billm]

Shouldn't be quite the issue with tube shocks as it is with lever arms. Tubes are a linear thrust while lever arms are rotational (torque arm). but it is still a good idea to check. Now I am going with the u-joint being about to fail
BillM

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Got a spare driveshaft. Now may be the time to pop it in while Bugsy is up in the air. A couldn't hurt?

Leaky heater valve, made a new gasket, gasket sealer, flattened the bottom of the valve sandpaper on a flat plate. Will lewt finish drying overnight, top up with water, check for leaks and then make a swap to antifreeze.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

So best method for reinstalling Drive Shaft is it the masking tape method? Any other suggestions? Are the driveshaft bolts metal nylocks or normal bolts?

 

[Billm]

Jim
I have been able to reach down the tunnel and insert the driveshaft into the trans (holding the yoke in my hand). This MAY just be possible due to my particular physiology but seems fairly easy.
I think that originally the flange just used nuts and lockwashers but I usually just use Nylocks
BillM

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Well Bill I'll give it a try.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Bill, Do you have like 36" sleeve lengths on your shirts. Is this like doing artificial inseminations on Horses like I watched Mike Rowe do on Dirty Jobs with your entire arm up to the shoulder up the tranny tunnel from behind, or do you have small hands to give access via the shifter opening?

 

[Billm]

Not long arms and they go in up to my shoulder but it works (from the back end)
Bill

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Ok found your answer in a different thread. Thanks.

 

[Elva164]

Not sure if you discovered the source of the noise, but another potential cause could be extra lash in the ring and pinion.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Had not considered that. There is a Rib Case in there but Gerard opined that this one likely has a Smoothcase Clutch whose action is entirely different from a 1098 and 1275's. Rear end is going to be coming out and a 3.9 Pumpkin is on the list of things to be added when I pull it apart for paint. I did get it up in the air this afternoon and the Tube Shocks needed at least a full turn on the top bolts. Main Spring Square U Bolt was tight. Bolts through the spring needs tweaking and Spring Plate bolts all were able to be torgued about 3/4 turn or more. Have not had it back down on the ground yet, All engine / tranny bolts ae tight. The tranny side bolts needed at least 3 /4 turn and the tranny tailshaft bolts took about 3/4 turn. Again nothing that jumped out as here is the reason things feel loosy goosey back in the rear end. Tire Pressures are 22 F and 24 R IIRC. Brakes all got readjusted, fronts a bit too tight, rears needed tightening after driving a little bit.

 

[nomad]

Nice toy's, Michael!!

[Not to change the subject!layful:]

Kurt

 

[Paul McGuffin]

I had exactly the same problem. It turned out to be slop in the real differential. Jack the rear of the car up, then move the wheel back and fourth. If you get the klonk without the drive shaft turning, then it the read end.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Further Discussion with several forum members and all opine that likely radius arm bushings. I have a new set of Radius Arms I was awaiting to install. Presently Marinating Bolts in PB Blaster. Likely will remove Tube Shocks and reinstall Lever Arms while I have Bugsy up in the air.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

View attachment 45031View attachment 45032Houston I think I've identified the problem. This doesn't look right. I'd say those bushings are more than toasted. Those Radius Arms will get changed out for new and Peter C. has a pair of rebuilts available so I can get rid of the Tube Shocks. And new set of Straps from The Strapping Lad as well. Now to come up with a 3.9 pumpin. My source can't find the one he thought he had.