TR2/3/3A body work on the spare tire panel

[sp53]

So I am doing the body work on the spare tire panel and have some concerns. I heard a body shop man refer to a dented up panel as being walnut-ed when there were many highs and lows hooked together. I have been using a method of cleaning the piece, by sandblasting then putting on epoxy primmer over the entire piece then applying the putty where needed. I have been using that glaze putty and spreading it over the piece in low spots, but I am still getting that wavy feel because the area is large. the piece looks a lot better but needs more. It looks like I should try again and this time put a thin layer or the entire raised section of the spare door, and try and get that flatter/more even plan. This time I might use a sanding block because I could be digging in and creating waves, but again on a tr3 everything is arced at some point.

I want to get a system of laying the putty because both rear fenders are basically completely walnut-ed and I plan to do them next. I like the feel of glaze putty, but should I go to bondo on the rear fenders, but again I guess I should spread out a large area from the highest point and feather it all together

 

[PatGalvin]

Glazing putty (I assume it is the two part stuff you are using) is for filling fine scratches on nearly finished panels. I would not use it for filling walnuts (or any nuts, for that matter). It is hard to tell, but it looks like the dent on the bottom right (at lower corner of raised license plate area) should be worked out with a body hammer and dolly before any filler goes on it.

It is fine to put filler over epoxy, but you either need to apply the filler during the epoxy's open window of time (seems to vary from a day to about 5 days) or you need to put a coarse scratch into the epoxy so the bondo will mechanically bond to the epoxy.

As far as finishing this panel, once you are satisfied that the dents are removed to the extent possible and you are happy with the overall shape, I'd run a semi-hard block fitted with about 180 grit and identify all the hills and valleys. Sand in an X pattern. Hills might need to be further metalworked to lower them. Valleys can be either metalworked or filled. Apply filler to deep scratched metal (say 80 grit) and push the filler into the metal for good adhesion. Start with maybe an 80 grit to get your panel shape (coarse sandpaper is great for shaping- if you use fine paper, you just polish the top of the filler). Then, skim coat with that glaze you have, to fill the coarse scratches. You can sand that with a slightly finer grit, depending on how thick it goes on. I would finish my filler in 180 or maybe 320 and then put a couple coats of urethane primer on it and sand with 320 and 400 wet. That should be just fine for a solid color paint.

Hope this helps. I spent way too much time on my spare tire panel, but it was worth it go get a good fit and nice looking cover.

Pat

 

[TomMull]

It is hard to tell, but it looks like the dent on the bottom right (at lower corner of raised license plate area) should be worked out with a body hammer and dolly before any filler goes on it.

You couldn't find a better piece than this to hone your panel beating skills than this, imo.
Pat, most didn't fi as well as yours when they came off the assembly line.
Tom

 

[sp53]

Thanks Pat for your detailed and easy to understand approach to body work. The proof is in the pudding and your car looks great. I did go over the spare panel with a hammer and dolly and the dents were only about 1/16 or less before I put the two part glaze stuff. I probably need to be more aggressive with the dolly. My fear is I will make things worse. It sounds like I need to work the rear fenders more and use actual body putty. The glazing shrinks too much anyway. This is kinda like teaching someone how to frame a house. With that, I know how to smack stuff and when and where to smack stuff, and the newbie is sometimes stifled.

 

[WiscTR]

If you haven't already, check out this post. Great info on bodywork.
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?102796-Beginning-the-TR2-Bodywork

 

[CJD]

I know you don't want to hear it, but I'd work it more. All that walnuting will come out. Remember that a low spot on one side is a high on the other...so keep working back and forth. My panel took most of a week, and I haven't even gotten to the glaze yet.

When it comes to the filler...whether glaze or filler, use a larger sanding block, and sand flat. If you hit metal, but still have a wave, then stop and spread another layer to bring up the lows. Don't force it...if you hit metal that's the best you can do with that layer.

 

[sp53]

Thanks for the post John, it makes perfect sense. I had not been using a block because of all the curves. I looked on line and saw some that were flexible, so I went to the paint store and bought what they had. They are about 3x4--- 2x4 flexible rubber or something, so they are kinda small and the guy gave me some tips on sanding. We have a few stores locally, and I like this store, but I am always a little cautious when I am leaning and spending money. I saw some on Eastwood’s site that must a foot or bigger. Do you use the flexible blocks or have you improvised something.
Steve

 

[CJD]

I never use soft blocks, as they tend to cut the low areas along with the high...so you can't get rid of the waviness. You can use them to get into the tight spots, like the concave parts of the cover, but only after you've gone as far as you can with the large hard blocks, and don't use too much force when using them. Some of the recent blocks I have been using are hard plastic, with clips to quickly change the paper. They do have a thin padding, but it is relatively stiff, and only about 1/8" thick. I like them and they're cheap at Home Depot and Lowes.

On large panels I use blocks that take a standard sheet if paper cut into 3's long way. For the tire cover, you can get blocks that take the standard sheet cut into 1/4th's the short way. They make very long blocks that would be great, but they take special sheets. I like to be able to pick up more at Lowes, rather than driving to specialty suppliers.

For the glaze and filler, it helps to buy one of those cheese grader, plane looking tools. Once the filler lights off and gets rubbery, you use the grader to coarsly carve down the high spots, very quickly. You have about a minute from the rubbery stage until the filler turns too hard to use the grader. Then switch to very coarse paper...like 60 to 90 grit. Change the paper frequently to speed the work. Primer will cover 90 grit scratches well. Once you switch from filler/glaze to primer, change your sanding to 200 grit wet or dry, and sand...preferably wet to remove the dust without marking the surface. For your last coat of primer, use 400 grit, so the scratches won't show through your color coat.