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BN6 Complete Running Gear - What's it worth?

CaliforniaKid

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Hi all.

Haven't been 'active' here in quite a while - just lurking, but pretty much daily for the last couple of years...

The 'resto-mod' of my BN6 two-seater is moving forward - see Martin Jansen's page on modified Healeys at his Jule site to get a glimpse of what he's done for me these last two years. For those not aware, Martin has built one of his frames for me and modified it to take a Ford 302 (bored and stroked to 331 - 400 hp / 400+ ft.lbs.), Tremek TKO 5 speed and a narrowed and strengthened Ford 8 inch rear axel. He's also tubbed the rear wheel wells to take slightly wider tires so that they don't have to protrude out and/or require fender flares - incorporates custom wire wheels with an interior offset to maintain the exterior proportions. Some beautiful work really... Have also incorporated a pretty sophisticated exhaust system to try to keep the noise down - meant to be a very pretty 'sleeper'...

Martin and I have a question to ask the world... and I hope some of you might oblige with comments.

What is an original, complete, stock (appearing...), non-running BN6 powertrain (engine / tranny / rear end) worth? Anyone? And no kibitzing Martin...

I can eMail images to anyone who wants an idea of what the engine looked like when it was still in the car. Hadn't been run in sometime...

Best,

Mark G.
 

Johnny

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If you can verify the engine will turn over, not seized, and the gears can be located with the shifter correctly and the rearend not tore up I'd ask the following:
Engine, $2K with carbs and all manifolds.
Transmission, $1K for a side shifter, $1,500 for a top shifter.
Rear end, $200.

That's just my opinion of course, but you did ask.
 

HealeyRick

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CaliforniaKid said:
Hi Rick.

Enjoyed watching your Nasty progress as well. How's it running?

Best,

Mark G.

Mark,

It runs great. My car is "stocker" than yours, but I like how your mods are keeping the stock appearance of the car. Like any restoration or swap the sorting out process after the major work is done takes some time and that's where I am now. I'll drive the car for 15-20 miles, note some issues and try to address them. My latest adventure was trying to fix the low speed cooling by installing an auxiliary electric fan https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...tall#Post857091 It can be very frustrating to have to do a radiator removal a couple of times when you think you've already completed the swap, but it just comes with the territory. :nopity: OTOH, as frustrating as these issues can be, there's a real sense of accomplishment in figuring out how to fix them and carrying it off. I think I've found my cooling solution, so I'm happy. Now I can fix all the paint scratches from tearing out the radiator. :wall: I don't know if you've been to the BritishV8.org forum, but it gives you a good insight on how much work still remains after the swap is "done".
 
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CaliforniaKid

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Johnny,

Thanks for the input!

I will have to investigate the status of the engine (turns or not), but I know the carbs and manifolds were there when we started. I will also need to investigate the tranny and rear end...

But your $0.02 is a great start!

Cheers,

Mark G.
 
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CaliforniaKid

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Rick,

Good luck...

I've actually been down this road once or twice before. The V8 I've put in the '58 BN6 was originally in a '60 Bugeye that I built (someone did the major fab for me then too) twenty five years ago (not bored and stroked back then / attached to a C4 auto tranny) that I wrapped around a guardrail about thirteen years ago (following two girls back to their place in Laguna Beach after breakfast at 1 am...). Personally did some VW based sand rail stuff (mostly friends' toys - they had the $$) in high school and college before that - kind of like very fast snap together toys!

I don't weld and/or bend metal (and had more money than time when I started this project), so I dragged Martin into the picture.

I'm also on British V8 forum, just not very often (mostly a regular lurker) - have been watching your car there.

BTW, did you see the tech write-up there on the baking sheet and deep dish pizza pan fabbed fan shroud? I loved that one! I'd look at that for your electric fan perhaps...

Best,

Mark G.
 

BoyRacer

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I disagree with Johnny,
2K for a 100-6 engine is way too much. Maybe for a complete 3000 engine but not a 100-6. You did not say if it had the gallery head or the 6 port head.
As for the transmission, is it standard or overdrive? The BN4 transmissions are weaker than BN6 and 3000 transmissions and the overdrive is 28% versus 22% for a 3000 overdrive. BN4 transmissions are not desirable even in a 100-6. I'd say the tranny w/OD is maybe worth $500.
Rear end. It's probably a 4.10 - not very desirable. However, the complete diff and housing with hubs and axles, backing plates with wheel cylinders and adjusters - you've got $400 in parts. If you have a standard transmission then you might have a 3.90 diff. That's worth at least $200 right there for the diff.
 

HealeyRick

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CaliforniaKid said:
BTW, did you see the tech write-up there on the baking sheet and deep dish pizza pan fabbed fan shroud? I loved that one! I'd look at that for your electric fan perhaps...

Best,

Mark G.

Mark,

For those of us with certain "proclivities", like stuffing V8s into little British cars, the internet's a pretty small world. I submitted the pizza pan shroud to BritishV8 after seeing it on FFcars.com. I think the difficult part of building a shroud for a stock radiator in a Healey is the vee-shaped crossmember in the six cylinder cars. I think about 1/3 of the radiator is located in the space even with or below that crossmember. I had previously thought the holes drilled there were for chassis lightening, but I'm beginning to think they might have been there to allow airflow to continue after passing through the radiator. At any rate, the purpose of a shroud is to cover the entire radiator so the fan can suck air through the whole core. That crossmember makes it very hard to construct a shroud that will cover the bottom 1/3 of the radiator.
 
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CaliforniaKid

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<span style="font-style: italic">
BoyRacer said:
You did not say if it had the gallery head or the 6 port head. <span style="font-weight: bold">(Don't know - will find out)</span>

As for the transmission, is it standard or overdrive? <span style="font-weight: bold">(Again, don't know but will find out)</span>

The BN4 transmissions are weaker than BN6 and 3000 transmissions and the overdrive is 28% versus 22% for a 3000 overdrive. BN4 transmissions are not desirable even in a 100-6. I'd say the tranny w/OD is maybe worth $500. <span style="font-weight: bold">(Pretty sure it is the original BN6 with OD)</span>

Rear end. It's probably a 4.10 - not very desirable. However, the complete diff and housing with hubs and axles, backing plates with wheel cylinders and adjusters - you've got $400 in parts. If you have a standard transmission then you might have a 3.90 diff. That's worth at least $200 right there for the diff. <span style="font-weight: bold">(Again, don't know but will try to find out / sounds like its a 4.10 though because of the OD)</span>
</span>

Thanks for the insights!

I bought the car that I did because it was a basket case / rust bucket 'big' Healey... but had complete papers!

I always intended to hot-rod whatever I bought, so I didn't buy a decent 100-4 (my favorite body style) or later model becasue I didn't want to modify something that was easily retored (I'm a confused purist...). My primary concern was the possibility of California registration as a pre-smog vehicle that would not have to meet any emissions standards. So, I had no idea what the running gear was and didn't really care...

A 100-6 two seater was the closest to a 100-4 that I could get without actually getting a 100-4 (couldn't bring myself to modify a 100-4, and already modified 100-4s had premiums attached that didn't make sense to me).

The prior owner of the 100-6 I bought had restored a couple of big Healeys before and planned to do the same with this car for his wife, but got distracted by age and family. He kept the car running until he put it in a barn, but then let it stagnate for some years... He told me he kept the powertrain stock and obtained Heritage papers which he gave to me at the sale - BN6-L/2734 / built 22-26 August 1958 / LHD, North American (Canadian) Export / Wire wheels & OD etc. - and that all the numbers should match... The only 'modification' that had been made to the car was the fender seams had been Bondo'd at some point in ancient history... easily remedied.

I'd provide a picture of the vehicle when I bought it that shows the engine compartment, but I don't know how to insert an image to a post on this forum... And actually just figured out how to do the neat Quote box thing...

Thanks again!

Best,

Mark
 
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CaliforniaKid

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<span style="font-style: italic">
HealeyRick said:
I submitted the pizza pan shroud to BritishV8 after seeing it on FFcars.com. <span style="font-weight: bold">(Oops - forgot that was you..!)</span>

I think the difficult part of building a shroud for a stock radiator in a Healey is the vee-shaped crossmember... <span style="font-weight: bold">(I'm using a larger than stock radiator because of the 400hp from the engine, we're fabbing in a custom mount that leans the radiator back and also mounts a condenser for AC in front, and we never intended to use a mechanical fan because of the serpintine belt kit on the engine, so a shrouded electric fan was always the intent for my car. Since you're running a vertical flow radiator and you don't have to worry about frying trans fluid, why can't you run a partial shroud? Sure, you'd lose some efficiency but probably not enough to make a huge difference, and you wouldn't have to worry about obstruction at speed from a fixed unvented shroud because you have the unobstructed bottom third of the radiator passing air. Just a thought...)</span>
</span>
I thought about building a FF car, but wanted no limitations for registration in California. And also just didn't want to be another one of those guys...

And I can hear it already - <span style="font-weight: bold">"AC in a 100-6?! The thing doesn't have roll-up windows and you'd have to have a top up with plexi windows for it to do anything..."</span> I'm from SoCal and AC in a convertible can be done in a way that works without a top, but admittedly it only really helps from the waist down... but that can be enough!

Cheers,

Mark G.
 

Patrick67BJ8

Obi Wan
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CaliforniaKid said:
<span style="font-style: italic">
HealeyRick said:
I submitted the pizza pan shroud to BritishV8 after seeing it on FFcars.com. <span style="font-weight: bold">(Oops - forgot that was you..!)</span>

I think the difficult part of building a shroud for a stock radiator in a Healey is the vee-shaped crossmember... <span style="font-weight: bold">(I'm using a larger than stock radiator because of the 400hp from the engine, we're fabbing in a custom mount that leans the radiator back and also mounts a condenser for AC in front, and we never intended to use a mechanical fan because of the serpintine belt kit on the engine, so a shrouded electric fan was always the intent for my car. Since you're running a vertical flow radiator and you don't have to worry about frying trans fluid, why can't you run a partial shroud? Sure, you'd lose some efficiency but probably not enough to make a huge difference, and you wouldn't have to worry about obstruction at speed from a fixed unvented shroud because you have the unobstructed bottom third of the radiator passing air. Just a thought...)</span>
</span>
I thought about building a FF car, but wanted no limitations for registration in California. And also just didn't want to be another one of those guys...

And I can hear it already - <span style="font-weight: bold">"AC in a 100-6?! The thing doesn't have roll-up windows and you'd have to have a top up with plexi windows for it to do anything..."</span> I'm from SoCal and AC in a convertible can be done in a way that works without a top, but admittedly it only really helps from the waist down... but that can be enough!

Cheers,

Mark G.
We have a few 100-6's in our local Dallas club that have AC's. Owners very happy! A local guy in our club installed the AC's.
 
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CaliforniaKid

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Patrick67BJ8 said:
We have a few 100-6's in our local Dallas club that have AC's. Owners very happy! A local guy in our club installed the AC's.

I'm curious what units they used... I'm using a VintageAir control unit and a compressor that is the same type VintageAir deploys, but incorporated into a BilletSpecialties serpentine belt kit for the small block Ford (prefer the BilletSpecialties kit to the VintageAir on the engine side - tighter fit).

Best,

Mark G.
 

Patrick67BJ8

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CaliforniaKid said:
Patrick67BJ8 said:
We have a few 100-6's in our local Dallas club that have AC's. Owners very happy! A local guy in our club installed the AC's.

I'm curious what units they used... I'm using a VintageAir control unit and a compressor that is the same type VintageAir deploys, but incorporated into a BilletSpecialties serpentine belt kit for the small block Ford (prefer the BilletSpecialties kit to the VintageAir on the engine side - tighter fit).

Best,

Mark G.
I'm not sure what their under-the-dash system is but "Old Air" is close to where we live. They also use a compressor/alternator bracket developed and sold by Bret Blades of Blades Design. He also has custom "superflow" condensors too.
 

bighealeysource

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Hey Steve,
That is the most amazing feat of engineering I have seen on a Healey. Sure there are others out there similar to it, but yours is truly a work of art. Fantastic job and thanks for sharing it with us.
Regards,
Mike
 
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CaliforniaKid

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HealeyPassion said:
Mark, FWIW I've got a fairly detailed A/C project write up on my website https://stevesaustinhealey.com
A/C Project

I drove Martin's EFI roadster a few years ago at the Galena Conclave... tightest roadster I've every driven. He makes a great frame.

Your project looks great!

Cheers,
Steve
https://stevesaustinhealey.com

Hi Steve.

I followed your build pretty closely over the last couple of years and was very impressed with both your vehicle workmanship and your web site. I've seen a comment or two of yours about Martin's V12 powered ride since he and I started working together, and was very comforted in having chosen him as a vendor after reading your observations.

I actually directed Martin to your site (and even printed out pages form your site and sent them along with my own notes) when he and I were working through what we were going to do for the AC on my 100-6.

Most everything I've done has been 'fairly-conservative' (331 stroker Ford instead of 347 for engine longevity / carbed instead of EFI for now / Corvette hydraulic engine mounts rather than 'conventional' hot-rod biscuits to minimize vibration) with a couple of exceptions - beefed up Ford 8 inch rear axel rather than 9 inch (lighter and should be more than able to handle the 400hp / 400+ ftlbs for a car not much over 2k lbs), and a screwy custom exhaust of my own design (Spintech mufflers under the seats to act as termination from custom headers, Spintech oval tube to reduce ground clearance issues, and a Magnaflow dual exhaust cross flow muffler mounted transversely at the far back with one of the paths through run the 'wrong' direction - the interenal X will be working from a more acute angle than intended but the engineers at Magnaflow said it should still work / help even out the pressures from the two sides and quiet the exhaust note by cancellation...).

Your car, Martin's and the 100-4 with the Ford SHO V6 written up at Brithish V8s were real inperational for my project.

I'll try to keep the community informed of my project's progress.

Chers,

Mark G.
 
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CaliforniaKid

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Patrick67BJ8 said:
I'm not sure what their under-the-dash system is but "Old Air" is close to where we live. They also use a compressor/alternator bracket developed and sold by Bret Blades of Blades Design. He also has custom "superflow" condensors too.

Thanks for the heads-up. Will take a look at what Bret's done / doing. Martin and I are pretty well past sourcing components at this point, but I'm always curious how somebody else built their mousetrap.

Best,

Mark G.
 

HealeyPassion

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Mark, thanks for the codos. I look forward to seeing the progress on your ride. I like your choices... for instance I think the 8" make sense in your machine.. etc.

Say "hi" to Martin for me, hope he's doing well after his "medical event".... we had some great efi bench sessions in Galena.... he's a smart guy.



Cheers,
Steve
https://stevesaustinhealey.com
 
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