Austin Healey 100-6 Stuck motor...

[Tony_Bowen]

Spring cleaning...

Two years ago I picked up a 59 100-6 in decent shape, complete and running, though the clutch slave cylinder was stuck open. I started it up on fresh fuel in a plastic can, let it idle for a bit and, being satisfied that the car was in good shape, pack it away in a corner for the inevitable rebuild. Fast forward two years. Being inspired by the warm spring weather we have been having I dug the poor thing out from behind some other dusty projects. I put her on the lift and swapped out the slave cylinder for a fresh one I had lying around, bleed the system, and lo and behold we now have an operating clutch. However, somewhere in the last two years, the engine has decided to lock up on me. Things I have done to try to free it up:

1) Fresh battery, key on, start button pushed and only a 'clunk' to show for all the hard work.
2) Popped out all the spark plugs and poured oil down each cylinder. Put in 4th gear and rock back and forth. No workie.
3) Even tried the old push along to get a head of steam then put into 4th and pop the clutch. Satisfying squeal of the tires but car comes to a dead stop without moving the engine.

I feel that if I could just get a good lock onto the front pulley nut with an offset box end wrench I could get this engine to move. Of course part of the charm of the big Healey is the tight working confines of the engine bay (makes my MGA look cavernous by comparison). So now to my question...

What size is the front pulley nut on these besties? I am thinking around 1 5/8" but that is only because my box end set peters out at 1 1/2". Also anyone have any tricks that would help in navigating something with a long lever arm and the exact right size socket into the front confines without removing the radiator?

Thanks in advance for any help...

Tony

 

[John Turney]

The starter dog nut is 1 11/16". I just bought a combination wrench in that size from Northern Tool.

You might be able to get an openend wrench on it by taking off the fan, but I had to take out the radiator (I have a "Texas Cooler" plastic fan that wount come off without taking off the radiator).

 

[Tony_Bowen]

Thanks for the wrench size info. Saved me a few bucks and a return trip to the store. I'll nab one today and see where it gets me tomorrow. I may still have to remove the radiator and the fan to get room to turn it though. I was just hoping to not have to go to the extra difficulty of taking them out. Ah well, I need some Healey scars on my arms to match my MGA and Jag scars anyway.

T.

 

[Keoke]

I was just hoping to not have to go to the extra difficulty of taking them out. Ah well, I need some Healey scars on my arms to match my MGA and Jag scars anyway.

Well you can remove the fan using a stubby offset boxed end wrench without removing the radiator but you will get all the scars you need.

Seriously, you will need all the room you can get to try what you want to do. The original wrench used to remove the damper was a knocker type spanner.-Fwiw--Keoke

 

[smaceng]

I believe you are going about this in a questionable manner. As the most likely reason your AH is frozen, is that the rings have rusted to the cylinder walls. All of the methods you have tried, except maybe pouring the oil in the cylinders, is to be avoided. What you need to do is "gently" unstick your motor. You can back off the rocker arm adjusters to take the valves out of the equation. Pour in a couple of table spoons in each cylinder your liquid of choice....mystery oil, kerosene, PB Blaster (my favorite) every day for a week. Then get your big wrench and very gently try to work the crank back and forth. If it does not move, then repeat the above for another week and try again. Using your method of "breaking it free at all costs" risks breaking rings and ring lands. Good luck and lets us know how it came out.
Scott in CA

 

[Deleted member 8987]

Last Big Healey I had to do that on (and the rolling chassis, engine, drivetrain is still sitting outside across the street) we had to chisel one piston out.
Honed it, used piston and one set of rings (the owner was so cheap he squeaked when he walked) and it ran.
Moisture up the tailpipe, and that one exhaust valve was open.

 

[Keoke]

Using your method of "breaking it free at all costs" risks breaking rings and ring lands.




Good luck and lets us know how it came out.
Scott in CA
_________________________

 

[elrey]

I'm with smaceng on this one! P.B. blaster is terribly effective. I used to think the Kroil was the bomb, but over the past few years I have come to respect the P.B. You don't want to screw anything else up and you will want to adjust the valves and tune it up anyhow. --elrey

 

[Randy Forbes]

i THINK YOU'D BE BETTER SERVED if you went straight to the good stuff (sorry, caps lock accidentally on, and I'm too lazy to re-type it); this is a prime case for using Kroil

https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Kroil-Penetrating-liquid-KROIL/dp/B000F09CF4

An once in each cylinder would very likely free those rings. I'd let it sit in there a week, then do it again for another week. Once free, continue to crank the engine on the starter (with the plugs out) so you don't hydro-lock a cylinder, and punch a hole in the piston.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I was watching Chasing Cars and Waynes chief mechanic sprayed WD40 in each cylinder and counted to ten as he did each one. Let it set for a few days(I assume), but the show was only an hour and they fired the old beast right up.

 

[dougsmarkIII]

50/50 mix acetone and automatic transmission fluid. Best penetrating oil.

https://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/101776-nut-buster-homemade.html

Doug

 

[Donny_L]

Nice tip,cool study and the term " scientificly rusted"... thats a new one on me

 

[Bob_Spidell]

i THINK YOU'D BE BETTER SERVED if you went straight to the good stuff (sorry, caps lock accidentally on, and I'm too lazy to re-type it); this is a prime case for using Kroil

Good stuff. I use the aerosol (AeroKroil). Looks like it's cheaper from the source:

https://www.kanolabs.com/

Also recommend their Floway engine cleaner. Works better than Gunk/similar and--esp. if you buy it by the gallon--cheaper.

 

[Healeysince59]

WD (as in WD40) stands for "Water Displacer" and it works for that. WD40 stinks as a penetrating oil. Use Kroil or PB Blaster or ? Acetone/ATF gets good reviews but I haven't tried it

Marv J

 

[Tony_Bowen]

Thanks for all the replies everyone. We have both Kroil and PB Blaster in the gallon cans here so I'll give it a shot. Nice tip about the acetone and ATF. I will mix some of that up as well and see how it works on other stuff here.

FWIW, I don't want to seem like I am a hack mechanic looking for a quick fix to make a runner. My father and I have a private collection between us of over 30 british cars and a full shop to work on them. The "at all costs method" was more from late day frustration than any desire to get a quick fix on the motor. The car is slated to get a complete restoration, including a full engine rebuild anyway. I was just hoping to get it to putter around on its own power for a bit prior to disassembly. But I can count on one hand the number of times a "shortcut" has actually saved me time vs the thousands of times it has doubled the effort. So I'll go the weeklong soaking with PB and since I picked up a 1 11/16" box end last night I'll give it a little gentle persuasion. If that doesn't get her loose we'll just start the disassembly sooner.

 

[elrey]

Your late day frustration has led to this informative discussion on penetrants, a subject in which we all have a deep interest. Thank you and good luck --elrey

 

[smaceng]

Sorry if I came across a bit harsh....but you obviously knew the risks involved with the he-man approach...but I did not know that you planned to tear it down and probably junk all the pistons anyway. Oh-well, we all learned a bit what works for people in this situation!
Cheers,
Scott in CA

 

[BoyRacer]

I recently tried the acetone/ATF miracle mix. Guess what? They don't mix. You stir it up - they seem to mix - and then in a minute or two it separates back into acetone and ATF. It's like oil and water. Who came up with this BS idea? ATF is a light weight oil. Acetone removes paint and other sticky stuff. I tried it on a couple of frozen fasteners and it didn't work. If this stuff actually did work, someone would be selling it and giving it some fancy name and getting rich. The reason someone is not selling this stuff is because it doesn't work!

 

[Deleted member 8987]

You're supposed to shake it up real hard, pour it on the offending fastener, and throw a match.......

NO, don't do that.

 

[BabaKahawa]

You're supposed to shake it up real hard, pour it on the offending fastener, and throw a match.......

NO, don't do that.

OK... no it is then.....