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A different take on rollbar clearance

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So I was at the shop yesterday. The guy doing the wrenching used to work for a race shop before he went off to work for himself, so he's naturally keen on things that go fast. He finds my car hilarious...

That aside, as we were BSing, he told me I ought to race the thing when it's done. I got into talking about the problem with wanting to have the ability to put up the top, but have a rollbar that would pass tech, and keep it looking somewhat stock (no full cage for one).

"No problem" he says "we'll just lower the floor on your side".

Now I have to say that if he could pull it off it sounds quite appealing. More legroom would not go amiss...

JOOI - Anyone ever try this, and how did it work out?
 

Alan_Myers

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Hi,

Hmmmm. I think the BS sensor just went off. How familiar is this guy with Triumphs, in particular?

The reason I ask is that TR's floors sit almost directly on the frame rails and the stock seat sits almost directly on the floor. I think it would be pretty difficult to lower the floor pans at all! I've not seen or heard of it being done. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

Now, a lowered *seat* would be more like it. Switch to a Kirkey aluminum seat with a thin pad, for example, mounted close to the floor and you'd probably find yourself sitting as much as 4 inches lower in the car. Height could be fine-tuned a little by shimming under the seat mounts. Sure sounds like a lot less work, too! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif If you seriously toy around with goin' racin', first narrow down what kind of racin', the classification your car fits in and then check out the safety specs required for it. Some forms of racin' don't require all that much in the way of a roll bar, others want a full cage. For example, certain classes of Solo (SCCA autocross) don't require a lot of roll bar, although some protection is usually required and a good four- or five-point harness is needed to keep you nailed to the seat during hard cornering.

Historic and vintage racing often require a bit less, too. That sort of thing is subject to change, though. For example, sanctioning bodies have noted that some historic rally cars are actually going faster than modern ones, and that might lead them to demand more substantial safery installations.

In general, an open car requires a more substantial roll cage than does a car fitted with a hard top. Perhaps that's one reason many racers are fitted with a hard top of some sort. Also, a roll bar or cage can be a little taller and wider inside a hard top, than if a soft top needs to be raised and lowered over it. And, a removeable hard top makes installation of a roll bar or cage a lot easier than it is in a sedan or coupe.

You appear to be aware that open top, modified class cars being road raced often require a substantial cage that makes fitting a soft top impossible. Basically, the faster the car goes and the more exposed the driver, the more substantial safety equipment will be required.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
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He just does British cars. Before working for himself he worked for a vintage race shop - high brit content again. His business seems to be 80-90% TRs of one form or another. He had 4 TR-6s in his shop when I was in there plus other toys (like the -3 I drove yesterday). Amongst other jobs, he's reinforced my diff mounts and done a 1st class job, so he's clearly not totally unfamiliar with the underside.

That given - I can't tell whether he was serious or not - I still don't always get US humour. He was showing me where the front upper A-arms would need reinforcing though, so who can tell. He thinks I'm nuts btw...

As an aside, I don't see it myself - not without substantial frame modifications, it looks too narrow to sump btw the frame rails. I just thought the idea was really neat.

btw: I have nfc what class my car would fit in for "real" racing. It's going to be waay too modified for most regular classes afaict, but still road legal so useless against anything that even looks like a racecar. Might be nice if I could autox it or do some de events though.

I'd do better to buy something cheap to turn into a proper racecar, or better yet something that someone already spent the money on.

I'd really like a Lotus 6, but I'd need to lose al least 80lbs. Regardless, it's not happening this year though. Too much money into this one.
 

aeronca65t

Great Pumpkin
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My racing Spridget has a Kirkey-style seat (1/8" thick) and a lowered floor.
When I started out, I wanted to keep the car street legal and with a top. The only way to get the two inch helmet clearance and fit a convertible top was to drop the floor (actually I "hinged" it down slightly towards the rear).
The car is no longer streetable, but the top will still fit....it's probably the only Spridget in existance with a race-legal cage that will still fit a top.
I sit very low in my car....when I co-drive my friends more normal '62 race Sprite, I feel like I'm driving a jacked-up off-roader.
 

trfourtune

Jedi Knight
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alan,
alan myers is right. unless you have very very narrow hips you can't lower the floor. you would have to drop between the frame rails and a normal seat won't fit. lower seat type and or a more reclined position to get your head down
is the only option.
rob
 
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He's probably talking about just the footwell then. It's not something I was seriously considering (well not that seriously anyway), it was more a hmm that might be neat.

I read some more on the SCCA rules - that sort of stuff makes my eyes glaze over - if I understood it aright, it looks like I could run with a detachable rollbar as long as it's made solid enough and there is enough overlap in the upright. That's probably a better way to go for me.

Or like I said, just wait until next year and buy a "real" racecar that someone else spent all the money on already. Either way it's not my #1 concern right now.
 
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