TR6 75 TR6 choke cable problems

[jamesrockford]

This concerns the solid wire cable to the twin ZS carbs. I already replaced this cable once before. Just recently the choke cable has not been fully closing the front carb cam, although it closes the rear one. Is there some adjustment that can be made to solve this problem, or do I have to fork out $60 to get a new cable. I have been able to put a return spring on the cam of the front carb to make it work, but I like to keep things original if I can. It's hard to believe that a choke cable, can fail that quickly, when it hasn't been used all that much.
After tinkering around with adjustments on the choke, I gave up and put in a return spring, a trick I learned from a Jaguar mechanic who did some work on my TR6 years ago.

 

[DrEntropy]

hmm... if a spring pulls it closed I'd suspect the linkage at the choke is sticking somehow rather than the cable being at fault.

 

[TR3driver]

No experience myself, but Nelson wrote of similar problems with the late "pushing a wire" choke. Deleting the detent and adding a return spring sounds like the right solution to me. Details at https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsII/CarbsII.htm (scroll down to the section on the cold start valve)

 

[mikecyc72usa]

Have you tried lubricating the cale as well? I work in the bike industry, so we regularly lube brake cables and shift cables. Wherever the housing starts, I put some Tri-Flo on the cable, and then pull and push it to get it to flow as far as possible.

 

[Brosky]

Before I install a new cable, I put the cable in a vise with the handle on top. The vise is just to let the cable hang to the floor. I then spray WD40 or 3in1 oil in the top of the housing and let it soak overnight. The next day the lube has soaked it's way down and the cable is smooth as silk.

Put a rag under the cable on the floor to catch the drained out lube.