TR6 71 TR6 Choke Cable

[BJones]

Hi all, I am in need of a new choke cable for my 1971 TR6. Only one side of my current cable is working when I use my choke. TRF has a replica cable for $59.95. Moss and Vicky Brit are around $80.00 each. Anyone have any experience with TRF choke cables, or recommend another place to purchase one?

Thanks in advance,

 

[TR4]

Another option would be Little British Car Company which has the cable

CABLE, CHOKE, WITH KNOB - (734-270) $50.96

https://www.lbcarco.com/

 

[BJones]

Thanks, however the one from Little British that is from my year is 734-260 TR250, TR6 THROUGH 72 $75.83. The one listed above is the solid cable for years 73-76.

Thanks for the help and I would appreciate hearing if anyone has had any problems with any of these cables from differing sources.

 

[hondo402000]

I Pulled the cables out of the outer black housing, cut the cables at the solid metal piece, drilled out the cables as best I could, went to a bike shop and purchased replacement cables that were close to the original size put the 2 in the metal piece and brazed them in, works just fine save me 59.95

 

[2wrench]

I love it, Hondo, I love it. Makes me chuckle.
Did you read the thread about Triumph owners being
cheap?

Well done, Sir, and keep up the good work. (See a
Smiley face here, please.)

 

[amcboy]

Well whatever you choose get the braided variety.

If for some reason you have the late carbs without the return springs, get 'em!

I have the TRF part and it serves me well... your mileage may vary.

 

[DNK]

Brent, please explain the difference. Mine's a 71 and it has been so long since it's been tugged (insert rim shot) that I don't remember the difference.

 

[amcboy]

The pre-'73 braided cable was used because the carbs have return springs on the enrichener (to call it a choke is a misnomer although it performs a similar bit of business).

Post-'73 the little valves were return-spring less, so a solid wire replaced the flexable braided line because you now had to push the valve closed.

IMHO (and some others...) the felxable line is a better long term setup.


BTW there is a funny story of my trying to buy a 1970 TR-6 from a supposed foreign-expert buy-here pay-here about a decade ago and the lot owner was complaining about how you had to pump the carbs like 20-30 times to get it to start.

I had to explain that there are no acellerator pumps on the carbs and that the choke was just like that on most motorcycles: It simply puts more gas into the body of the carb (a la the pumping action of an acellerator pump) while running/cranking.

Dudemeyer apprehensively reaches over to the little knob and pulls it out a bit (I had to explain the twist lock part...) and turns the key... vroom.

You'd have thought I gave him the secret answers of understanding life, the universe and everything.

Too bad it was a rust bucket that was waaaaaay to expensive.

 

[DrEntropy]

:lol:

Can't count the number of times I've watched ACTUAL owners waffle the loud pedal repeatedly on an LBC with Strommies or SU's before they try starting it.

"Whadda ya doin' THAT for?"

"To start it... why?"

"Yer jus' FLAPPIN' the butterflies. Pull th' choke out a bit instead."

"WHOA! It NEVER started like THAT before!"

"sigh"

 

[BJones]

Thanks guys for all the input. AMC thanks for the review. Hondo, a little above my ability. Hopefully this will help me out a bit. Trying to get her running right by next weekend for Britain On the Green.

Thanks again guys!

 

[jjbunn]

I bought the Moss one for my '71, and have had no problems.

 

[DNK]

Since he brought this up I would like to hang my hat on it. My 71 has SU's and since there has been no gas run through those carbs yet,I had no idea that the later Stroms had a different choke cable than the new. For the SU's what type do I need and I think I only need 1 cable?

 

[poolboy]

DNK, 1 should do it for SU's. Your set-up is more closely akin to a real choke that restricts air rather than simply adding more fuel as in the case of ZS.
The shaft' for the choke butterflies are interconnected, similar to the inter connected throttle shafts.
So 1 cable operates both carb chokes as does 1 cable operate both throttle disc.
Or so I recall....

 

[DNK]

I was thinking of using a TR4 choke cable, is there a specific year that would be appropiate

 

[poolboy]

Don, I can't say specifically, but I think the main consideration would be the overall length. Can it reach the anchor point at the carbs without making any sharp bends that would bind the inner cable when you use it?

 

[DNK]

Ok , somebody measure the choke cable point to the firewall for me on a 4

 

[poolboy]

If it is any help, Don, the Dual cable for the ZS carbs on a TR6 from the bezel on the dash to the end of the outer cable (sheath) is 31 inches to the rear carb and 41 inches for the front carb.

 

[DNK]

I have the original cable for my 71 and I don't want to cut off 1 of the cables.

 

[poolboy]

No, I wouldn't do that either, Don. In the meantime you could make use of it by just using one of the cables.
I bet that you could get good bucks for it on Ebay once you found the right one for your SU's.
I went back and reviewed the cold start mechanism of the SU. In addition to opening the throttle disc with the choke cable, as the knob is pulled even more, the jet is lowered allowing even more fuel to pass. One cable does operate both carbs for cold start.