6 Cylinder on an Engine Stand

[pa297pass]

Hi all:

I picked up a spare engine for my TR6 today (one to rebuild without taking my car off the road). Do you guys have any suggestions on how to mount it to an engine stand?

My stand has bolt "tubes" that are 5/8" diameter, yet all the holes on the back of the block are 5/16-24. I don't feel comfortable holding that heavy engine on four dainty little fine threaded bolts. Should I mount the stand directly to the block or to the steel plate the starter mounts to (which also has 5/16 holes in it)?

Thanks as always for your knowledge and your help.

Matt

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi Matt,

I didn't have any problem mounting my TR4 motor on an engine stand... it's about the same weight as the 6, I believe (roughly 425 lbs total) and both are well below the limit of the stand.

I had to use some washers at the tubes, used Grade 8 nuts & bolts as a precaution and it all worked out fine. The motor sat on that stand for several years while other work was gradually done.

 

[Bugeye58]

I mounted my GT6 engine on the stand using the 5/16 bolts. I went into the block with grade 8 bolts, and never worried about it. The tensile strength of the bolts is far greater than the weight of the engine.
Jeff

 

[Guest]

A good source for grade 8 bolts, which aren't always that easy to find, depending on where you live, is a farm tractor dealer. Our local John Deere franchise carries only grade 8 nuts and bolts for those big green machines. The other shop I go to is an area bolt specialty store. Your local NAPA type store rarely go past grade 5. I agree that you will break the engine stand before you will break a real grade 8 bolt. The emphasis is on "real".

Bill

 

[trboost]

Hey Matt,

I know , it sure doesn't look like 5/16" bolts would support the weight of the motor at that leverage point. The key as decribed is to make sure the bolts are a good grade & they are screwed well into the holes. Most engine stands have five attatchment points, distribute them well ,trying to use the upper most & lower most holes in the block.

When it came time to install pistons & do more aggressive work on the engine I made up a simple brace or lean two, that I simply wedged under the front of the engine to take the stress off the rear support. My biggest fear was to strip or distort any of the holes. The brace or cradle was a cheap piece of insurance.