TR2/3/3A 1960 tr3 a seat tack strips

[Tinkerman]

After some interuptions I'm back to working on my seats. I made a jig to bend the luan plywood for the back. I soak the 1.5 " wide strip, in fact I soaked it most of all day Tuesday. I put it in my jig and clamped it down and let it sit overnight and for half the day I took it out of the jig and it is not holding the curve. What am I doing wrong?
My other question is: How many tack strips do I need?
I want to express my appreciation to Randy and Gerry of the Houston club for their hospitality and help during my recent visit there.
Randy really pulled my OX out of the ditch with a set of seat springs


Your thoughts and help greatly appreciated.
Tinkerman

 

[martx-5]

There are two tack strips IIRC. They are different. One for the fixed seat, and one for the folding seat. The one for the fixed seat is attached to the bottom of the pan following the curve of the back. It's flat. The one for the folding seat is the one that needs to be bent as it has to follow the curve of the seat back. I didn't use plywood, rather solid wood. I just bent it over a hot pipe, say 3"-4" in diameter, heated from the inside with a propane torch. Much the same way that luthiers bend the sides on guitars. A little bit of water applied helps steam things up a bit, but no clamping time is really necessary if done correctly, although clamping for awhile wouldn't hurt. I don't remember offhand what type of wood I used, but it was medium hard, probably maple. I tried to pick a tight, straight grained piece.

I don't think that just soaking is enough to soften the wood sufficiently to hold a bend. You need some heat. When I built guitars, one method used other then the hot pipe was to boil the wood for awhile and then clamp in the form overnight. Steam would be better, but building a steam box is more involved.

Here's a link on hot pipe bending...
https://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/techniques/archive/2011/07/12/hot-pipe-bending.aspx

you can google other methods.

 

[Rhodyspit75]

If you have access to a table saw or band saw you could cut very thin strips of wood. Use at least three strips four would be better, make them into a sandwich with white glue between the strips. Wrap them in plastic wrap and clamp them in your jig. When they are dry they will maintain the shape. You could also steam bend them as suggested above. All you need is a kettle a piece of pipe and rags. Put the filled kettle on a burner, I used my gas grill, slip the pipe over the spout and stuff a rag around the opening. Light the burner and when you get steam slip a piece of wood in the open end of the pipe and stuff another rag in the end. Check the wood after a while and when it is flexible put it in your jig to dry and set its shape. Solid wood would work better then plywood. Be careful steam burns at nasty.

 

[Lukens]

I used a cellular pvc material. I got mine from a sign board, but it's the same material as the "fake wood" trim you find in HD or Lowes. Chose a piece of lattice or similar shape. You may have to pass it thru a table saw to get the cross section you're looking for.
Bends easily and hold staples well. It'll be there for your grand kids.

 

[martx-5]

Tinkerman, I ran across this posting on rebuilding the seats. It clearly shows where the tack strips go (I forgot about the two short ones), and the form he used to to bend the wood. He did use luan just soaked down.

https://home.myfairpoint.net/~kentech0822/triumph/tr3seats/

 

[mgedit]

Dick, I encountered trouble trying to bend the plywood after long soaking, making a jig, cutting slots in wood etc. Just did not find it to work well with the plywood that I had at hand. I used the plywood for the tacking strips on the bottom of the seat. For the inside back of the seat I used some plastic venetian blind slats (about 1.5 inches wide). Taped them together with aluminium tape and just folded them around and pop riveted in place. They are flexible, won't rot, and hold the staples well. Cheers, Mike

 

[Tinkerman]

My thanks to all of you. Please excuse the double thread. This is the first time for me to use the old format and at my advanced age, heh.d I get confused easily, sigh. Pictures really helped Mike thanks! I shall press on with renewed vigahh.
Dick

 

[Tinkerman]

My thanks to all of you. Please excuse the double thread. This is the first time for me to use the new format and at my advanced age, heh. I get confused easily, sigh. Pictures really helped Mike thanks! I shall press on with renewed vigahh.
Dick

 

[Tinkerman]

Needless to say I still have cobwebs in the old noggin. I guess I will have to study the tutorial, sigh

Dick

 

[MDCanaday]

Dont make it harder than it has to be. The best way to go is to get a nice big leather belt.cut
it up and glue it into place.This takes stapples like a champ and holds together for a very long time
(like the leather you are sitting on). It is also termite resistant.......
MD

 

[TR4nut]

Tinkerman, I ran across this posting on rebuilding the seats. It clearly shows where the tack strips go (I forgot about the two short ones), and the form he used to to bend the wood. He did use luan just soaked down.

https://home.myfairpoint.net/~kentech0822/triumph/tr3seats/

I think that is our own PeterK's work - nice stuff!

 

[JohnB]

Dick,As others have suggested, I also went the "make my own plywood" method with my first TR2 seat, but it was a lot of work ripping and glueing and bending and clamping around forms. Way too much work! For the second seat I happened upon a very workable high density plastic at TAP plastics. As I remember it was called HDPE. Great stuff, took and held nails very well and was very bendable. If I ever have to do it again, HDPE will be my first choice. Check it out.

 

[martx-5]

Dont make it harder than it has to be. The best way to go is to get a nice big leather belt.cut
it up and glue it into place.This takes stapples like a champ and holds together for a very long time
(like the leather you are sitting on). It is also termite resistant.......
MD

MD, you're taking all the fun out of the restoration process with suggestions such as this.

BTW, didn't you use to call yourself Mad Dog?? I haven't seen you use that sobriquet in a long time...or am I mistaken??

 

[PeterK]

If the luan ply cracks, just soak it some more, maybe use a little HOT steam from an old steam iron before placing it in the form. The rivets will hold it in place on the seat frame even it it does crack a little.

Also note : The pieces of luan that I attached were directly copied from (what was left of) the old pieces so the shapes on the webpage are correct, if that matters to you.

 

[MDCanaday]

Yes the old mad dog is very fond of the KISS, Just because the factory used crummy wood strips
is a very poor reason to try and do the same. You will also find that I love re-purposing a thing that
might have gone to waste.......
I re-use old seat belt materials for the webbing on convertible tops.(modern cars come with exploding belts)
This is a light year or two better than factory used,and FREE to all my customers,since some poor dumb
insurance company had to buy new ones on some Toyota.
MD(mad dog)

 

[Tinkerman]

Thanks MD, I have several old leather belts that I can use. What did you use for glue? Contact cement? Maybe I can get this part of the project behind me.

Cheers, Dick

 

[PeterK]

My crummy wood strips lasted over 50 years. No animals were harmed in the process although leather is a good idea for an easy replacement.

 

[TuffTR250]

Would it work to just glue the vinyl to the metal seat base using a strong upholstery glue rather than putting the tack strips in?
Regards,
Bob

 

[Tinkerman]

Quized my upholstery buddy and he prefers the wood tack because it is easier to work with and is much easier to reposition if needed.

Cheers, Dick

 

[TuffTR250]

Ah, ok. Thanks Dick!
Regards,
Bob