64 BJ8 won't start after 10 min. drive.

Starts cold but after driving 10 min. Will not start until it cools down. Rebuilt engine 230 miles.

I would see if its the cap or rotor could be a slight crack

Welcome to the forum Susan. I moved your post from the "Forum Navigation Help" forum to the "Austin Healey Forum". Here you are more likely to get help for your question.

Condensers go bad, and simulate running out of gas when they heat up. After cooling down, can seem ok until they heat up again.
Bob

Typical symptom of a bad coil. Could also be condenser. Spend the $50 and replace both before going any further. If the distributor cap and rotor are old replace them too.

Does it stall on it's own when hot, or have you shut it off on purpose?

If it stalls when hot and won't restart, I would look at the electrical issues listed above.

If you've shut it off intentionally and it won't restart, I would guess it's a fuel issue.

Hi Susan,

Before extending an educated guess as to the cause of your issue, having a little more information would be helpful.

What type of ignition system are you using (i.e. original points-based system, electronic ignition, CD system, etc.)?

What did your engine rebuild entail (i.e. full rebuild, carburetors, etc.)?

Were there any other changes made (i.e. fuel delivery, exhaust, other, etc.) that was incorporated as part of the work surrounding your rebuild and engine reinstallation?

You mentioned the no-start when hot. What was the temperature gauge registering when the car would not start?

A number of issues could be causing a no-start condition when hot. Since your rebuild could have disturb other supporting components including ignition, fuel delivery, carburetion, wiring, etc., further symptoms and information would help narrow down the cause.

Ray (64BJ8P1)

Cheap fuel/vapor lock?

Could the floats be the problem with my hot starting? I have rebuilt the whole engine, have a electric ignition. carbs seem to be syniced. Ken and Susan

Second motion to swap out coil, since you're not using a condenser.

Ken/Susan,

Although the float could be a cause of hot-no-start, I would tend to see it as a low probability. First, please correct me if I am in error when assuming you mean “electronic ignition” when indicating “electric ignition”. The most probable conditions that, I believe, can cause similar “When-HOT” issues are: A failing Coil, cracked cap, faulty rotor, and vapor locked fuel delivery. Of these, I would agree with Steve & Bill and obtain/barrow a coil to test on the car for starters.

Good luck,
Ray (64BJ8P1)

I had the same thing happen on my 66 BJ8. I adjusted the mixture making it slightly leaner (even thought these cars like more rich) and it seemed to turn the engine over a little easier when hot.

Scot

Won't start after it gets up to temp, or won't run (stalls out) after it gets up to temp?