Hard Brake Line Compound Opinion/Recomendation

Hi All,

I must replace 2 major brake lines in my '99 Acura TL due to corrosion (water and salt over the years) resulting in a blow-out. Although I will be doing this on my drive and will wait till warmer weather, I was also considering and evaluating my Healey's lines and would be purchasing enough line for possibly both jobs.

Knowing little about brake line, I noticed a number of compounds being advertised. Although the standard steel line is lowest in price, it seems most difficult to bend and flare. Another that seems to be promising is NiCapp, a Nickel/Copper compound that is advertised to be 58% easier then steel to bend and flare and will not rust or corrode.

I would appreciate any suggestions as to which brake line compound to do either or both jobs.

Thanks,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

I found that the standard steel brake lines bend and flare just fine using a tubing bender and flare tool. Here in CA, corrosion is not near as bad as the NJ Shore, though. My 20 year old steel Healey lines are just fine.

Ray--

In addition to being easier to work--58% is the claim--NiCopp is inherently resistant to corrosion whereas the exterior surface of steel tubing has only a corrosion-resistant coating.

We've argued this before, IMO the copper/nickel is best. You can get a 25 ft roll cheap on Amazon or from Federal Hill Trading.

There are previous threads discussing this if you want to go thru the whole discussion.

You may be able to buy pre-made lines for your Acura thru a google search.

I have had copper-nickel pipes from Automec in the UK: https://www.automec.co.uk/ on both my Healeys for more than 20 years. Highly recommended. Easy to fit and well made.

All,

Thanks for your response and perspectives. NJ is transitioning from salt to Ca but only when the temperatures are on the mild side of cold. Salt is still the main road treatment when snow and ice are expected. Over the years car body and component corrosion is everywhere and the Acura's rear-bound brake lines are covered with a plastic grill that traps and holds this corrosive mix.

My Healey initially was subjected to this mix but after the rebuild during the mid 1980, the car has been only driven when there is no chance of salt on the road. During the rebuild, I cleaned all hard brake and fuel lines and then reinstalled these originals with Silicone fluid. After posting, I took a fast look at the Healey's lines under the car and they still look very good. However, since the garage is unheated and it is 19F, I will spend more time evaluating on a warmer day.

I am really interested in the Nickle/Copper compound as the Acura has a very good braking system but will require a substantial number of bends per line. The 2 rear-bound lines from the proportional valve to each rear wheel is quite long and I would like to have single runs from point to point. This would require removing some under-car components to access the original paths and may require taking a protected alternate path in some situations. All this disassembly and installation while the car is up on jack stands in my drive way while my British cars are safely parked in their garages.

Steve, I can get pre-bent original lines but the cost of a 25ft roll of Coper/Nickle is less then the shipping for the longer of the rear-bound line and they indicated they can't guaranty its safe arrival.


Well, hope it gets warm soon,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

HealeyRick said:

I have had copper-nickel pipes from Automec in the UK: https://www.automec.co.uk/ on both my Healeys for more than 20 years. Highly recommended. Easy to fit and well made.

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Seconded. However, last time I checked I couldn't find sets for Healeys on their site (I bought one many moons ago).

Bob_Spidell said:

Seconded. However, last time I checked I couldn't find sets for Healeys on their site (I bought one many moons ago).

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They've cleverly hidden them in the drop-down menu under "Austin" instead of "Austin-Healey". They have them, though, for both LHD and RHD cars.

Ray,
You may wish to buy connectors and do your lines in 2 or 3 sections.
If you have your own flaring tool all this becomes routine.
I recently purchased the inexpensive Eastwood tools below and can vouch for the ease with which they make 3/16" double flares (which your Accura most likely uses with Japanese metric tube nuts). The deburring tool does both inside and outside.
You can use US nuts and connectors for the connections in the middle.
The tube straightening pliers are a "nice-to-have" - the cunifer tubing can be straightened by hand.
A cheap HF tube bender will do most of the tighter bends.