TR2/3/3A Hard Brake Line Flaring Question

[PatGalvin]

So I just installed the hard brake line (CuNi - Rimmer) from the MC to the 5-way fitting and it was too long. So I cut it and reflared it using a double flare and the 45 degree SAE flare tool. Now, I'm worried that it might not seal properly. Has anyone used this type of flare on brake or clutch hard lines? Thanks for tips.

Pat

 

[Gliderman8]

I just used the exact tool last week to replace rusted out 3/16" brake lines on my everyday driver. I would suggest you practice on some scrap tube first. I know the more flares I did, the better they got. Make sure the tube is clamped down as tight as you can make it to keep the tube from slipping in the clamp.
Make sure to lightly file the tube square and file the outer edge to give it a slight bevel.
Making the inner flare is just a matter of compressing the die until it stops. I found that when making the outer flare it was not necessary to really crank on the clamp as it might make the wall thickness to thin. As I said, get some scrap and practice... and don't forget to put the nut onto the pipe before making the flare.

 

[bobhustead]

ditto what gilderman said. As long as you space the tube end (for the first press) above the clamp bar by the instructions, all will be fine.

Bob

 

[Vila]

Ditto, ditto.

In the early stages of my 62 TR4 restoration I replaced the brake line from the 5-way fitting back to where the rubber flex hose attaches.

I also used this exact tool and it worked great. Like Elliot said, follow the directions and practice a few times. I believe I did 3 practice flares before doing the real thing.

Vila

1933 Chevrolet
1962 Triumph TR4
1984 BMW 633 CSi

 

[Crankshaft]

I'm familiar with using the flaring tool, but I need help knowing what is meant by "double" flare.

 

[tinman58]

Pat
If you use the flaring tool like you painted your TR3, You have nothing to worry about.

 

[bobhustead]

I'm familiar with using the flaring tool, but I need help knowing what is meant by "double" flare.

It is double because the first press with the little insert folds the tube in on itself and the second (without the little insert) forms the flare and the flare thus has a double wall.
Bob

 

[Gliderman8]

Like this...

 

[PatGalvin]

Thanks for all the tips and assurance. I'll know in a few weeks if all my "double flares" hold, or if some of these need to be redone. Flaring is definitely an art. I was tempted to purchase one of those nice flaring tools (about $200 to $250) but just don't have enough flares to warrant the investment. They are cool and make a real nice consistent flare.

Happy New Year to all of you!

Pat

 

[Gliderman8]

After I was done hooking up my new flared brake lines, I had someone pump the brakes so I could check for leaks. I did find two, and I tightened up the fittings and all is fine now.

 

[Crankshaft]

I presume the "little insert" mentioned are the small black disks at the right side of Pat's tool set. My flaring tool is one I used in my hardware store 45 years ago, and there were no "inserts" with it. Looks like I might be doing my part to stimulate the economy by buying a new HF flaring tool set. I'll need it when I re do the flare I did for my fluid canister.

 

[PatGalvin]

The inserts allow you to make the double flare. Without them, you can only make a single flare. I picked up the flare kit from Autozone on free rental, I think they cost about $30 so not terribly expensive.