A few valve cover [rocker cover] related questions, 3000, BJ8.

Hello-
I am visiting my mom until tomorrow and trying to do some maintenance on the 1966 AH 3000 BJ8 which we share (but lives at her house). The engine started making a worrisome tick, so I decided to tackle a valve adjustment for the first time on the off-chance that is the problem. The car is new to our family, so we don't know when it last had a valve adjustment. I had two questions:

1) Without access to the correct parts (a rubber bushing and cup washer), can anyone recommend a way to get a good seal at the valve cover fasteners. Whoever did it last had a steel washer against the valve cover, a copper seal-ring next, and then the nut/bolt fastener on top. To get a good seal, they used a ton of silver sealant (RTV like stuff). I don't have time to wait for parts and cannot find the correct parts locally. I will fix whatever I do with the correct parts whenever I am down here next, but I just want to get the car running again for her today. And hopefully without a ton of sealant.

2) The inside of the valve cover was rusting to the point that it was flaking off onto the valve train. I used a wire brush to get rid of any loose rust, but don't know how I can prevent this from happening. I would rather not use a paint in case it fails without me knowing it. I thought about a rust converter like phosphoric acid, but I didn't want to get acid on the painted side of the cover. Also, I don't know how that stable the resulting material would be at high temperature, so I didn't want to risk the experiment. I drove the car yesterday a lot and was surprised that there wasn't more oil on the inside of the cover to keep the rust away. Does this indicate that perhaps some of the oil spraying system isn't working correctly. Again, I am new to the car, so sorry if these questions seem silly.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Does this indicate that perhaps some of the oil spraying system isn't working correctly.

Not necessarily if oil is spraying all over the inside of the valve cover it most likey would indicate that you have a worn rocker shaft..

Get all the required parts and fix the car next time you visit.

Keoke-
Thank you for your reply. Yes, the long term solution is to get the correct parts and fix the car during my next visit. I am just trying to see if anyone has any bright ideas how to get the car functional today and to be good enough for a period of a few weeks. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.

One thing to keep in mind, and that's noisy valves won't cost you money, but tight ones will! Unless there's an obvious clattering, a little noise from the valve train is a good thing.

The only time an exhaust valve gets any cooling__to dissipate heat__is the brief moments it is in contact with the seat. Loose valves, clearances too big, extends that time, but tight valves shortens it. The intakes get a cold blast of air/fuel on every intake stroke, so they're nothing to worry about, but always err on the loose side when stting the exhausts.

As for sealing the cover, there is no substitute for the correct parts; anything less, and you're over tightening the bolts attempting to get a seal, and likely distorting the cover in the process. I switched to an aluminum cover around 1984, and it HAS NOT LEAKED since. I had always used the correct original hardware, but a year or so ago, I succumbed to buying some fancy-looking chromed or stainless pieces.

Healey's are old-school cars, and there is LOTS of maintenance required; maybe not so bad on an on-going basis, but since you haven't had the car that long, my recommendation would be to get it ALL up to date. That could occupy an entire holiday weekend, and it just so happens that there's one right around the corner!

Where is the car located?

Put some water-absorbing fuel treatment in the tank. Pour some Marvel Mystery Oil over the rockers and maybe some in the tank. Drive it locally to warm it up good - then maybe some more Mystery Oil. Guys buying and selling old cars swear by Mystery Oil.

Thanks everyone for the helpful replies. The car had one very distinct tick that was very different than the other valve noise. The valves were tight when I checked them just now, so I have reset them correctly (I hope). I will start the car after lunch and see if the noise has changed. I will report back then.

Regarding the car, it is kind of a strange situation. My friend had decided many years ago to gift me the car when he passed away. But recently, he was barely using it, so he decided to give it to me before he passed away. Quite a generous gift, mind you. I live in San Luis Obispo, CA with a very small house and no garage. So I could not take the car at my house. So we decided to officially give the car to my mom and it lives at her house in Redlands, CA. I thought it would sit unused between my visits, but she is very excited about driving it. And now my sister in San Diego wants to house the car for me as well. I will let my sister and Mom negotiate that one. haha.

One thing I can say is that it is very scary working on a car which your mom and/or sister will drive. The weight of responsibility is much greater when it is your loved one's in it, and not yourself. Strange, but true in my case.

The weight of responsibility is much greater when it is your loved one's in it, and not yourself.

WOT !!

I love me TOO!!:friendly_wink:

SG,
If you decide to move the car to SD, there's a good mechanic in Chula Vista, Terry Cowan 619-475-7937 terry@toyshop-resto.com

Suggest having him assess the car.

Don't know anyone in Redlands or the "inland empire" area.

Addendum: PS - the Healey will feel much more at home in San Diego!

Thanks again everyone. The engine tick is still there unfortunately.

I thought I had a lead on a very good mechanic near my mom, but the number has been disconnected. So much for that. It is one of those noises that could mean the engine is about to explode, or could mean absolutely nothing. I am going to spend some time right now trying to find someone to check it out. And most likely, this will all have to get pushed back until my next visit. This is my second dedicated visit to my mom's to try to get the car in working order. But so far, other than a drive around the block, the car has mostly sat in the garage. But it has new: front disc rotors (one was chewed up by a stuck caliper), calipers, pads, front wheel bearing grease (the prior mechanic did the bearing spacers wrong), brake hoses, brake fluid (someone reversed the brake and clutch fluid at the reservoir which I have yet to resolve), oil (that drain plug was WAY too tight), coolant (30% glycol/70% water), radiator cap, and battery (27). I have new tires all set to go, but still need to get them mounted. But I am making progress. I just wish this one little noise from the engine wasn't there.

You guys are great. Thanks for both the technical and moral support.

shortsguy1 said:

Thanks again everyone. The engine tick is still there unfortunately.

I thought I had a lead on a very good mechanic near my mom, but the number has been disconnected. So much for that. It is one of those noises that could mean the engine is about to explode, or could mean absolutely nothing. I am going to spend some time right now trying to find someone to check it out. And most likely, this will all have to get pushed back until my next visit. This is my second dedicated visit to my mom's to try to get the car in working order. But so far, other than a drive around the block, the car has mostly sat in the garage. But it has new: front disc rotors (one was chewed up by a stuck caliper), calipers, pads, front wheel bearing grease (the prior mechanic did the bearing spacers wrong), brake hoses, brake fluid (someone reversed the brake and clutch fluid at the reservoir which I have yet to resolve), oil (that drain plug was WAY too tight), coolant (30% glycol/70% water), radiator cap, and battery (27). I have new tires all set to go, but still need to get them mounted. But I am making progress. I just wish this one little noise from the engine wasn't there.

You guys are great. Thanks for both the technical and moral support.

Click to expand...

I has an engine tick that wouldn't adjust out when doing valve adjustments. It turned out to be a broken piston ring on top of the piston hitting a valve. I've had it happen on 2 engines and both of them it turned out to be the #6 piston.