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Tips

Yikes these are expensive

Brosky said:
Rubber fuel line and stainless clamps, but not for too long.

:iagree:

But maybe copper tube for more rigidity and a longer term DPO fix....
 
I've seen SS braided fuel line used - perhaps a bit more robust!
Try your local speed shop. They may have a small piece laying around.
 
TheSearcherMan said:
You are whinning about 20 bucks?

Yep - I am. Look, I have no problem spending the $20 bucks. It just seems expensive for what it is, and I thought it was a good opportunity to see what creative ideas the group has. I've learned to never discount the knowledge and creativity of the folks here!
 
Here's a picture of what I tried to describe last night. It's not flexible like the stock link, but I figured if one end was still in a flexible link, this would work. It did, till I put the new replacement flexible link in...
 

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tdskip said:
TheSearcherMan said:
You are whinning about 20 bucks?

Yep - I am. Look, I have no problem spending the $20 bucks. It just seems expensive for what it is, and I thought it was a good opportunity to see what creative ideas the group has. I've learned to never discount the knowledge and creativity of the folks here!

I know the feeling... it's just a small piece of bent metal...

The Volvos that Jerseygirl and I own both have a plastic grill insert that is held in place by 8 little pieces of bent metal (not screws... no... :nonono: ...that would have been too easy... :nonod: ). To remove the grill (necessary to check/change the air filter), the stupid little clip has to be pressed <span style="font-style: italic">through</span> the grill. A real PITA. And to make matters worse, the clips often break when doing so... naturally... These stupid clips were (AFAIK) <span style="font-weight: bold">only</span> used on the '72 and '73 Volvo 1800E/ES with the plastic grill. About 12K cars were made. Replacements are available.. for about $6 EACH. Needless to say, when I removed the ones from my parts car, they will be saved.

/rant

I swear the carb linkage on my Spit 6 has like 4 of those little couplers... I really hope that I can switch to a RatCo linkage and remove some. They just look weird.
 
Moseso said:
Here's a picture of what I tried to describe last night. It's not flexible like the stock link, but I figured if one end was still in a flexible link, this would work. It did, till I put the new replacement flexible link in...

That is interesting - looks a lot more solid than the replacement couplings.

Any reason why a more solid fitting wouldn't be a good idea?
 
I only put one setscrew on each shaft. My machinist-mentor taught me always to use two in that kind of application to ensure things stay put.

Really tightening the setscrew will definitely make a burr on the throttle shaft -- probably not a great idea.

The stock "folded" links allow for less-than-perfect alignment of the two shafts being linked -- a good idea. My fix is less forgiving.

I think the best temporary fix suggested -- sure to get you home and then some -- is the rubber fuel hose & hose clamps. It's got the linear flexibility that's required. The down side would be that it probably has a little torsional flexibility too -- which you don't want...
 
Moseso said:
The stock "folded" links allow for less-than-perfect alignment of the two shafts being linked -- a good idea. My fix is less forgiving.

Ah, there is the answer. Makes sense now that you point it out.

Thanks!
 
The issue is that the carb shafts do not align perfectly; there can be both a small offset and a small angle between them. Using a solid coupling will force the shaft to bend to accomodate the offset/angle, leading to binding and rapid wear. The offset/angle can even change over time (if for example the rear carb gets cooler or hotter than the front one does).

There are stronger couplings available of course, but not cheaper. And since my factory couplings are still working fine after 50 years and a couple hundred thousand miles, I'd have to say the application is well proven. $20 for a part that will go another 50 years sounds like a bargain to me.
 
IanF I really hope that I can switch to a RatCo linkage and remove some. They just look weird. [/quote said:
<span style="color: #660000">Hi IanF, I hope you are well.
RatCo linkage?? I was not aware.

I have the Ratco cable throttle system installed in
my TR and I like it alot. The downside is it incorporates
the original stupid folded carb linkage and it quickly
gets bent real badly.

Does RatCo make a carb linkage to go with the cable throttle?
I would like to know. How do I check?

thanks,

dale </span>
 
Tinster said:
Hi IanF, I hope you are well.
RatCo linkage?? I was not aware.

I have the Ratco cable throttle system installed in
my TR and I like it alot. The downside is it incorporates
the original stupid folded carb linkage and it quickly
gets bent real badly.

Does RatCo make a carb linkage to go with the cable throttle?
I would like to know. How do I check?

thanks,

dale

Unfortunately, I'm confused about what you're asking...

My situation is a tad odd.

On a late Spitfire, the carb (single CD150) is operated fro mthe throttle pedal by a cable that exits the firewall near the master cylinder, crosses over the the top of the valve cover to a stop mounted on the intake manifold, and pulls on the throttle shaft.

The engine in the car is from a MkI GT6, which used a linkage assembly from the pedal to the carbs (no cable).

What I have is a cobbled combination of the two. It works, but not very well. Initial movement of the throttle is very difficult until about 1/3 throttle is achieved. Then movement gets very easy. This makes low-speed driving rather difficult as it's hard to keep the throttle within that first 1/3 range.

I think I have two options:

1. Figure out a new/different cable arrangement. I was hoping the Ratco system would work, but now that I look at it, I don't think it will.
2. Aquire and install a non-cable throttle pedal assembly from an early GT6 (a Spit version may work as well).

We're entering the "classic car hibernation season" up here, so at least I'll have a few months to ponder and fiddle with this.
 
Thanks Moseo- NO, they do not carry dual carb linkage
to replace the folded metal.

thanks anyway,

d
 
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