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Yes, another electronic ignition question

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Atrus

Atrus

Jedi Warrior
Offline
Sorry for all the ignition questions, but I have another.

I was debating the Ignitor or the Crane unit, however I just checked the lbcarco's site, and Jeff Zorn has the Pertronix Ignitor Distributor for $185.

How common is it for these distributors to wear out? I am just thinking I have a 40 year old dizzy (as far as I know it's original). Additionally, I broke the vacuum advance brass line right at the connecting nut, so I need either a new advance unit/line or some line and a tool small enough to flare it properly. No way to splice, it's flush with the nut.

I'm now starting to lean towards the whole dizzy assembly. What do you all think about this? I know there was the recent post about the Crane system not fitting the dizzy shaft properly. My thought is I'd know the entire ignition system is good (given I get new wires/plugs). Also, (this may be bad), but I am running a coil off a '90's Chevy 4.3L on there. Few years ago when I was trying to get the car running, I wanted to go to the modern-style cap and wires. Just picked up any coil (I think it was $20 at Autozone) to get it running. Would this be the correct coil for the ignitor, or should I get a flamethrower coil for the $30?
 
If the primary winding resistance of the generic coil you are using is close to 3 ohms, it will work fine with the Pertronix. Others will have to comment on what you gain with a performance coil. A lower resistance coil can be used but will require a ballast resistor and the Pertronix would have to be connected to a 12v power source. I doubt this applies to your car.

Give your existing distributor an inspection looking for play in the shaft. Remember that the 4-lobe cam is supposed to move (pivot) on the shaft so the play you're looking for is from side-to-side, not rotation. You can also remove the breaker plate and make sure the centrifugal advance bob weights are free to move (apply a drop of oil to each pivot while you're there) and make sure the springs aren't broken. If nothing's broken, the weights are free and there is reasonable play in the shaft, there may be no reason for you to buy the complete distributor, just get the Ignitor.

Since you don't appear to be focused on originality, you can probably tap the entrance to your existing vacuum unit with a 10-32 tap. You should be able to get a 10-32 hose barb to screw into the tapped hole. Then you can attach your vacuum hose to the barb.
 
Thanks Doug, I'll check the unit for play. Also, great idea on the barb, that's something I'd be interested in doing if I keep the stock assembly.

Appreciate the input.
 
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