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Randall's right, something doesn't seem right.

Remember one thing though, there are 2 crankshaft TDCs for every camshaft "TDC"; the camshaft rorates at half engine speed.. In other words, when you say a camshaft is 180deg out, it may be that the piston is at TDC exhaust rather than TDC ignition.
 
Yes and if by by mistake you were 180 degrees off with your cam install you can compensate in the manner I described above involving just the distributor
 
Pete, I think you have gotten good advice here. However, I also think it is time to put down the tools and pick up the manual. Visualy run through the whole procedure for installing the cam and crank gears. Line everything up paying attention to the manual as you go. Then do the same for the distributor install. Go over it a few times if you need to. It may be something simple, do this before you start taking the motor apart.
I was 100% sure mine was right but I was 100% wrong after doing what I suggested above.
 
Not that I'm going to admit anything, but lets just say I know a guy who set up 180 degress off despite knowing it could happen - its relatively easy to spot if the intake/exhaust valves are rocking when you are at TDC - that is not when you want to be firing the plug. Moving the plug wires is a quick fix as poolboy suggests - then in the case of a TR3A engine you can stab the distributor in the proper orientation at a later time (and when some of your buddies in your club aren't looking over your shoulder and laughing at you!)
 
I did spend some time studying the book today. I set the "milled" section at 4:20. I found true TDC on the crank. How can I tell if I have it on the compression stroke or power stroke? I have the timing chain off so I could "start from zero"

I think if I get the valve timing right I can figure out the ignition timing. Or not!!!!!!!!

Thanks again for all the advice, pete
 
With the plugs out, put your thumb over the number 1 plug hole, and rotate the engine in the normal direction. As the engine approaches number 1 TDC on the firing stroke you will feel the compression trying to blow your thumb off of the plug hole. Make sure you don't put your thumb into the hole. Being a piston stop hurts.
 
Twenty past 4, or better yet look at the illustration because to me it's actually looks about 5 minutes to 4 when it's right.
From there it's time to let the Bentley guide you.
 
He's got the timing chain off, he will get compression on both strokes since the valves are not opening. Also I don't believe it matters at this point. Pete, you will need to follow the manual and line up the marks on the sprockets when you reinstall the chain. Once the cam timing is set then you need to determine when you are on the power stroke and put the distributor in place. Your manual should have a procedure for this also.
 
startech47 said:
With the plugs out, put your thumb over the number 1 plug hole, and rotate the engine in the normal direction. As the engine approaches number 1 TDC on the firing stroke you will feel the compression trying to blow your thumb off of the plug hole. Make sure you don't put your thumb into the hole. Being a piston stop hurts.
Click to expand...
As long as the chain is off, the cam won't be turning and the valves not moving. Beside I believe he has TDC, now he wants to get the cam timed so that #1 is in compression which is pretty close at the "20 past 4" position. Best to let Bentley guide you at this point.
 
:thumbsup: keep him straight Rhodyspit, I got to go away for a while.
 
airlifter said:
I did spend some time studying the book today. I set the "milled" section at 4:20. I found true TDC on the crank. How can I tell if I have it on the compression stroke or power stroke? I have the timing chain off so I could "start from zero"
Click to expand...
There is no difference with the timing chain off. The camshaft position is what defines the difference.

Don't have my book handy, so I'm not sure about the "milled" section. But the usual process is to put the crank at TDC, and position the camshaft with #1 ready to fire (which for a stock TR6 crankshaft means both #6 valves are equally open), then install the chain & gear at the same time.

Not unusual for the original timing marks to be wrong or missing; but the valve position is what is important.
 
I have been following the bently book but I must have misunderstood somehting. I adjusted the valves according to the book. It says to adjust the valves #11 and #12 to .012 and then rock the crank until #'s 11 & 12 are on the "rock" and the clearance should be equal. I kept trying to adjust #'s 11 & 12 all the way up to .016 and could not get them both to open at the same time. #'s 1 & 2 are both closed so I am assuming that they are in firing position. As I said, I have the timing chain off so I rocked the cam. It should do the same thing, no?

After I thought about it, I don't think it matters about crank position at this time until I put the timing chain on. I think that will determine if it is power or compression stroke.

I might be making this more complicated than it needs to be.

Again, thanks for the help. Pete
 
. You need to be in Section 12.45.05 "Engine Assembly" on step 73 thru 87 which describes the procedure step by step. Just treat it like a cookbook and follow the dirctions; understanding it can wait.
 
airlifter said:
It says to adjust the valves #11 and #12 to .012 and then rock the crank until #'s 11 & 12 are on the "rock" and the clearance should be equal.
Click to expand...
I don't have my book handy, but that isn't right.

You turn the cam until valves 11 & 12 are on the base circle, and set the clearance to some ridiculously large number, like .050". The exact number isn't so important as long as they are equal; but it has to be more than the normal cam lift at zero degrees between the exhaust & intake strokes. That way, when you turn the cam to TDC between E&I, you can easily measure the (much smaller) clearances. And when the smaller clearances are equal, the cam is exactly at TDC.
 
Pete's got the numerals right as Bentley suggest, just that the decimal is in the wrong place.. It's 0.120
...And the bit he says about "rocking the crank" comes from Section 12.65.08 which assumes the crank and the cam are on the chain.
Pete really does need to go back to 12.45.05 if the chain is not hooked up yet.
 
OK boys and girls, due to much information and wisdom form this panel of learned and helpful induviduals I think I have made some progress.

I DID have my decimal in the wrong place. I went back through the procedure (again) and came out with much better results.

The crank is at TDC, the machined section of the cam is approx. 4:20 the #'s 11 and 12 valves are equal, #1 and 2 valves are closed. The rotor is pointing to about 10:00 when viewed from the drivers side of the car, which would be #1 plug wire.

Thanks much and let me know if you see any thing else that needs to be corrected. I hope to get on photobucket soon so I can post some pictures.
 
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