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Wishbone arms cotter pin removal

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Claretannie

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Hi Guys , I’m trying to get these cotter pins out and so remove the screw caps that go onto the bottom of the stub axle . I seem to be only able to press them in a vice about 1/8 of an inch until they’re solid . Do I have to turn the screw cap to a certain position to enable the cotter to come out ?
Thanks
Richard
 
Hi Richard,
From the outside it looks like the cotters should push out after removin the nut & washer but they don't. The pins actually have a curved section cut out in the center of the length - this curve matches the diameter of the screw caps and sit in a groove cut into the circumference of the cap.
So what you need to do is loosen the nuts and then tap the pins up just a little, maybe a 1/16 or so, and then you can unscrew the caps. IMG_1890.jpg

Apologies for the very crude sketch but hopefully you get the idea.

Dave
 
Last edited:
red57 said:
Hi Richard,
From the outside it looks like the cotters should push out after removin the nut & washer but they don't. The pins actually have a curved section cut out in the center of the length - this curve matches the diameter of the screw caps and sit in a groove cut into the circumference of the cap.
So what you need to do is loosen the nuts and then tap the pins up just a little, maybe a 1/16 or so, and then you can unscrew the caps.

attachment.php


Apologies for the very crude sketch but hopefully you get the idea.

Dave
Click to expand...
Elaborating a little bit on Dave's sketch, here's a look inside the outer end of a lower control arm, where those cotters and cups reside. You see I've made on a note of my findings, so DO READ THE MANUAL (preferably, the Bentley Complete Austin-Healey 100/6 & 3000 version) to set up the clearances correctly (those threaded caps HAVE TO have room to unscrew & screw in during full range of travel__this is best done before the springs are installed).

hnr_017.jpg
 
Thanks guys for this explanation. By coincidence I was trying to work out the function of those cotter pins and now I know.
The reason for my interest is that I noticed that the restorer of my car seems to have used on one side of the car one correct cotter pin and a bolt and nut which I presume he modified to have the correctly positioned concave form when he assembled the unit.
Everything seems well set up and well greased also there is no slack in the suspension. The car has done 18000 miles since restoration, 9 years ago.
I did note that the amount of exposed thread on the centre positioned fulcrum pin to swivel pin cotter pin is sufficient only for a nut, not a nut plus spring washer.
cheers
Steve
 
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