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Wiring Question

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jaegzie

jaegzie

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I was using a 63 wiring harness to get everything running properly on my BE, Now it runs good with this harness and everythig works. I want to put in the pull switch and basically make a wiring harness look like it was there. I have the wiring diagrams and everything basically laid out for what i need except for what gauge to use.

Is there somewhere that has these listed or is there just a standard for which gauge I should use or does it really matter, except for obvious spots where the gauge needs to be bigger like on starter, etc...

Thanks
 
I second that question, I am thinking 16 ga for rear lights and signals, park horn..heater,headlights 12ga,
 
I don't understand the question. Pull switch for the starter? What wires? It's a cable to a mechanically operated solenoid, there's wires on the solenoid of course, but nothing on the pull switch dash side. Are you asking how to wire the solenoid? If it's still + ground you run a hefty wire, 10 gauge I'd guess, from the - terminal on the battery to one half of solenoid and the other side goes to the starter's terminal.
 
Basically they are self wiring their car as I am about to do. the wiring diagrams available show the routing of wires, but not the size / gauge.

So knowing the proper sizing/ga. of wire is in doubt
 
Exactly, The 63 wiring had a key switch. Now that i know the engine is running and everything is good as far as coil dist... etc. I am pulling the 63 harness out.

I am going to start making a wiring harness for the car. Pull switch was just to show what I was going to do, as the 63 is not a pull switch wiring harness.
 
I just wired a Bugeye from the bottom up. I used a painless wiring kit. The wiring in the kit is as follows:
1.) headlight 14GA
2.) brake lights 14GA
3.) Tail, parking and turn signals 16GA.
4.) E-fan and fuel pump 16GA
If you have any other specific area let me know and I check the Harness. Hope this helps.
 

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Here's mine, but by no means standard: mt frogeye & I wanted some relays and more than 2 fuses: relay & fuse holder But then wiring is my business in UK. Best advise: Take your time, think about everything before you cut any wire. DRAW it. Use the correct sized crimps & a good tool.
It's not a quick job.
Good luck.
 
jaegzie said:
Exactly, The 63 wiring had a key switch. Now that i know the engine is running and everything is good as far as coil dist... etc. I am pulling the 63 harness out.

I am going to start making a wiring harness for the car. Pull switch was just to show what I was going to do, as the 63 is not a pull switch wiring harness.
Click to expand...

'63 had pull switch starter
 
I just did some major modifications to my Bugeye's electrical system; see https://www.nonlintec.com/sprite/electrical/. A little way down from the top, in the section entitled "Wiring," I address this question exactly. The problem with most of the wire-size standards you'll find on the net is that they are based on limiting the voltage drop in the wire, not on handling the current until a fuse blows, if there is a malfunction. I think the latter is more important, and largely will satisfy the former.

In the end, I used no. 14 wire for 20-amp branches and 16 for anything less. Some places you'll have to use thinner wire, just as a practical matter; for example, hooking up panel lights. I kept the original harness wherever it was useful, but mostly it handled the same or much less current after the modifications.
 
jvandyke said:
'63 had pull switch starter
Click to expand...


I was told the car was a 63. I had no title, or anything and I never really looked into it, the car was just for parts anyways, rotted beyond belief, it must have been a 64. :wink:



Otherwise thank you for the responses I will be looking through the links provided and hopefully get this done this weekend.

Thanks again.
 
www.britishwiring.com can supply OEM Wiring Colors in correct sizes by the meter. Think about that if you want it to match up with any sort of standard wiring reference chart. My question would be why not simply buy a new harness. Don't reinvent the wheel. Think troubleshooting for the next owner.
 
Howdy Jim,

I was just driving thru & wondering if your an relations to "Marv Gruber" who lives in "Florence, AL" & is typ on the "Triumph Forum"?

Russ
 
Not that I know of. From the Cincinnati Gruber Branch of the family. Could be long lost cousins but I don't know him. I do have Jim the Elder who is a member of this list from Chicago another Gruber who of course I haven't met but give deference to his senior status. Hey we're all somehow related if you go back far enough.
 
Jim_Gruber said:
www.britishwiring.com can supply OEM Wiring Colors in correct sizes by the meter. Think about that if you want it to match up with any sort of standard wiring reference chart. My question would be why not simply buy a new harness. Don't reinvent the wheel. Think troubleshooting for the next owner.
Click to expand...

the fact is I have a few harness that are all solid. I dont want to splice into one. I have a BE and a 1275, running mechanical tach, and dynamo etc... so a regular wiring harness I would have to do work to anyway. Once I get a harness mocked up then one of my friends works at a place that makes them and he will have one made to the legths and whatever ends i need then wrap the harness.

It also comes down to learning. I could hav ebought a rebuilt 1275, rebuild suspension, send the bodies off to ge them fixed and painted, but what fun is that. Im not doing the cars to get them done (eventually they will), I enjoy working on them and learning how to work on them.
 
Mike,
As a word of advice, try to make the wire color coding the same for future owners.
 
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