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TR6 Wiring problem

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It sounds like the white wire is now "shorted" directly to ground.
 
Where and how would I ever find that?
I'm getting in over my head.
But - if the white wire is positive from the battery, it must be shorted between the battery and the fusebox, no? Now, there's nothing at all so there must be a break in the white wire?
 
Just to make sure I didn't burn anything out, I started the car and checked it out. Started right up, horn and lights work, including warning lights and dash lights, hazard flasher and red light work, brake lights work, ammeter works. Heater, wipers, washer, direction signals, heat and gas gauges do not.
 
The heater fan switch&motor, the turn signals, the wiper switch&motor, the fuel level gauge, the temperature gauge are on the green wire circuit which gets power thru the white wire at the fuse box.....but so does the brake lights which you said work.
The other stuff the horn and lights including warning lights and dash lights, hazard flasher and red light work are on other circuits and fuses...they are not on the white wire to green wire circuit.
I don't know what to say about your brake lights still functioning but the other stuff that's normally on the white to green wire circuit indicates that's where the trouble is.
 
On the 70 and 71 wiring diagram, it looks like the white wire feeding the fusebox comes out of a small junction box just below the alternator in the diagram. Where and what is that? Maybe that's the problem.
 
No, on the AAW schematic for the 70,71 the white wire that feeds the fuse for the green wires comes directly from the ignition switch.. as it should because the switch has to be turned to ON in order for those electrical components on the green wires to work.
 
You're right. I'm getting punchy.
Could the ignition switch be bad? Never has given trouble before, but who knows.
Time to do the dishes. My wife made fish (cod) with panko coating. I'm lucky. She's the best cook.
 
I had chicken soup...I made it.
We been riding out hurricane Zeta...It's moving on now...all good.
 
You guys have been hit hard this year. Florida - and us - have been lucky so far. We're expecting the remnants of Zeta in a couple of days up here. Just some rain, not much wind left.
 
In the light of day, things become easier. I clipped my homemade 12v test light to the negative battery terminal and the other clip to the small nail I stuck into the white wire connector. With key off - nothing. Key on - light goes on. Takeaway - white wire ok and fault lies under the dash. Does that also exonerate the ignition switch? My guess - the voltage stabilizer, but am I up to the task of removing the speedo and everything that follows?
 
Yes it seems the ignition switch is OK and I'd go one step further before looking under the dash. Do the same test with your test light, but this time intead of testing just the white wire, test the other side of the fuse....test the side of the fuse where the green wires connect to the fuse box.
With the ignition key ON, that side of the fuse should have current...if your light doesn't light. the problem is somewhere between the fuse and the green wire connection. If your light does light up, the problem is down stream of the fuse.....BUT not necessarily the voltage stabilizer
The heater fan nor the turn indicators have anything to do with the voltage stabilizer or its wires
 
After lunch, I tested again with 12v test light. Green wire - both sides to ground - light on. Fuse #2 - purple wires - Both sides to ground, key off or on - light on. Now it gets weird. Red wires - both sides to ground - nothing. Both sides to + terminal, light on. Is this backwards? I thought red wires were hot. I read online that someone with the same problem was told to check his grounds in the trunk. His problem turned out to be his fusebox. I should be so lucky.
 
Red wires at fuse box are only hot when the headlight switch is turned ON
Brown wire and purple wires at fuse box are always hot,
White wire and green wires only hot when the ignition key is ON
Your problem is with one of the green wires in IF you have current on the green wire side of their fuse when the key is ON

I'll be away from the computer for a while....there's some fish in my pond that need catching....back around dark...Good Luck !
 
I forgot the red wire is only hot with the light switch on. Senior moment.
What kind of fish? Bass? Carp? Bluegills (Bream)?
 
Yeah, Bream....2 kinds Copper Nose and Red Ear....but this afternoon they just sent out the Junior Varsity..no keepers.

Where were we ?
With all those components being out, the proeblem has to be on the green wire circuit.
Looking at the AAW schematic notice there are 2 green wires protected by the fuse being fed by the white wire.
Since you brought up the voltage stabilizer, can you tell if there is still a double green wire connected to one side of the voltage stabilizer ?
 
I'll have to check tomorrow am.
I caught the largest bream ever saw last Spring on a golf course pond in Venice, FL. I was fishing in light rain and I also caught a few small bass but this guy was beautiful - bright orange red on the bottom and purplish on the back and almost the size of a dinner plate. I didn't have my camera so could not take a picture and I tossed him back in. There are some big bass in those ponds. I took out a 7 1/2 pounder a couple of years ago from the pond right outside our condo. There are small catfish and really big and smart carp in some of those lakes plus a huge number of Tilapia. I actually caught two on small plugs, though they're vegetarians. The saltwater fishing has been lousy.
 
That might have been something from South America that "escaped" from an aquarium
Before you do anything tomorrow do this one more time
Put one lead of your test light on the green wire side of the fuse that's fed by the white wire and the other lead of your test light on a ground or the battery negative...see if the test light comes on when you twist the ignition key to ON.
 
With key on, test light lit and my crappy Radio Shack multi-meter showed 11.98 volts. 12.10 on the center terminal. Fuse box ok.
 
OK..then the problem must be in the green wires downstream of the fuse.
 
Problem solved. I lucked out. Didn't have to go under the dash. More in frustration than careful analysis, I knelt down and grabbed a bunch of wires under the dash and gave them a squeeze. Lo and behold, the gas gauge crept up, the direction signals and heater worked...I disconnected and reconnected all green wires but the problem came back. What now? Coming through the wiring harness from the firewall were two wires wrapped in black tape. I bent the wrapped wires and the gauge crept up again. I think when the tech was working on the clutch under the dash he must have disturbed the taped wires. I have two choices now. I can leave it alone or unwrap the wires and check them out. It all depends if I can find the end of the tape. If I can't - that means cutting it open. A bad choice. Probably means the dreaded splice and re-tape. After 38 posts, I'm sorry I misled so many with my sloppy work but at least I learned something and I printed out the wiring diagram and colored in the wires with colored pens. Thanks to all who responded with special thanks to Poolboy who always comes up with good advice.
 
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