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TR6 Wiring problem
- Thread starter pdplot
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87 in less than a month. Where did the time go? I've been fooling with these cars for 66 years. British cars owned - 3 MG TDs, one converted to a Lea-Francis MG, a TR3, Twin-Cam MGA and now TR6, and I've driven MG TCs, Jags, Morgans, a Singer, MGBs and Midgets, Austin Healeys, Arnolt Bristols, TR2s, Tr 4s, Morris Minors, Hillman Minxes, Austin A40s, Triumph Mayflowers, Bentleys, Sunbeam Alpines, maybe others. Time goes faster every year.
Madflyer
Jedi Knight
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The old glass fuses and fuse block were always a problem so I replaced it with the blade fuses and new block. They come with fuses that glow when blown and are easier to read value also and have a clear cover a plus also. I also added two extra circuits and split dash and have an extra for fan or other addition in the future. Madflyer
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Two solutions:
A third solution would be to cut the head off a 10-32 screw, loctite it in place and use as a stud.
I already tried the offset Phillips. Mine is not as good as the one shown - more like half a swastika. It can't get a grip on the screw slot. I do have an offset screwdriver something like the one you show but it's for a slotted head. The bottom machine screw is rusted, not like the top one that came out easily. (Why does this always happen to me?) The Loctite method might work if it will stick to a rusty rounded screw head, but knowing my luck, I'll bet that it will just spin off. I could file off the rust I guess. What's the second method?
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What I meant was when you get the phillips screw out, use the 10-32 hex head after that or loctite the stud in place in the captive nut.
This would also work for removal:
This looks good:
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Another method for removing lower screw:
--disconnect battery
--remove top screw
--shoot phone pix of wire placement on fuse box or make sketch
--remove all wires from fusebox
--soak lower screw with Kroil or PBblaster
--rotate fusebox 90 degrees to front, better exposing lower screw
--cut screwdriver slot in lower screw with dremel cutoff wheel
--remove screw with right-angle slotted screwdriver, such as 1/4" wrench with slot bit similar to above phillips.
--disconnect battery
--remove top screw
--shoot phone pix of wire placement on fuse box or make sketch
--remove all wires from fusebox
--soak lower screw with Kroil or PBblaster
--rotate fusebox 90 degrees to front, better exposing lower screw
--cut screwdriver slot in lower screw with dremel cutoff wheel
--remove screw with right-angle slotted screwdriver, such as 1/4" wrench with slot bit similar to above phillips.
For the time being, the fusebox is ok. The lugs wiggle around a little bit but current is flowing and no fuses have ever blown. The wiring in this car is in amazingly good shape considering the age. As for the wrapped wires that seemed to be the problem, I used a plastic tie to bind them to the main harness out of the way under the dash. So far, so good.