• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Windshield Success

Share this page

R

ragtopmg

Freshman Member
Offline
Most people equate replacing a windshield with DIY tooth extraction (with out 'caine). Just finished a steel-dash windshield and it went slick. Used a few of the tricks in the library-the c-clamp to "A" pillar was cool. I used a piece of light rope to pull the bottom seal front lip out. GOOP (without pumice) works like a dream as lubrication to pull the seal along the bottome channel.
Only one question remains-the seal between the A pillar and the door glass is so stiff it puts an outward pressure on the door glass frame. Is there any type of lubricant that will allow the frame to slide in to place as the door is closed. I'm really terrified of "the crack of doom".
 
Glycerine works well but must be renewed regularly. Can you adjust the windscreen forward any? Mine (steel dash) has an ever-so slight contact after "fussing" the pillars forward as far as I could get 'em to go. It doesn't seem excessive enuff to stress the doorskins now.

And, yup! I've said many times: I'd gladly do three clutch R&R jobs rather than ONE windscreen replacement on an MGB!
 
Make sure that the windshield is as far forward as possible. I know this is very limited, but get every bit you can. Pressure from the bottom seal will have a tendecy to push the top of the windshield back. This was my problem. If this dosen't help,gently close the doors and leave them closed for a few days and let the rubber reshape it's self. That's what I did and the doors now close with no undo pressure on the frame. PJ
 
Guess a bit of freezer wrap between rubber and paint would help a bit at first.
 
Back
Top