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TR2/3/3A WHY DOES MY TR3 STALL WHEN I TURN RIGHT?

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Alvin

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I have a 59TR3A all stock and all of a sudden it developed this strange problem - it stalls when I turn right. If I turn real slow it is OK, but at a normal TR3 turn speed it stalls! Turning left is AOK as well as going straight. Runs fine otherwise. After it stalls it takes me about 15 seconds or so to get it started again. Does not matter if the engine is at normal temp or cold. It all started a few months ago when I hit a series of bumps just as I was turning right. Maybe I should find a left hand turn with bumps to reverse the problem? I pulled the distributer cap and checked my wires under the dash and all looked OK? Any ideas or help? Thanks ....................AL
 
My guess, and it's been a number of years since I worked on a 3, is float level, float, junk disturbed on the bottom, etc.
Going one way could be running fuel up and flooding.
Just a WAG based upon old experience that is memory-fogged.
I would drop the float bowls and look for garbage/water, clean them, check floats, and cleen the needle/seat.

Can't hurt, and it's cheap.
 
I'd suspect the small wires inside the distributor (both the lead to the points and the ground wire for the point plate). Try taking them loose at one end, then tugging gently and flexing all around while checking for continuity.

Also check the external wires to the coil. They can also break internally with no obvious external symptom.
 
Wildly unlikely, but what about a broken or excessively worn/soft engine mount, causing the engine to lean to the left in RH turns and...oh...I don't know...pinching a fuel line? I say wildly unlikely, since I wouldn't think the float bowls would run dry so quickly. Or the same situation results in something grounding out?

I have to admit that I'd be more inclined to suspect float bowl gunk or related problems as suggested above.
 
Could be a lotta things.
Me, I'd check the float bowls first, then rig a test light up to power at the coil, see if it goes out when it quits.

The 15 seconds to get it going does not sound like it's a wire pulling loose, rather flooded out. Any black smoke out the tailpipe when it starts again?

You could also wiggle the wires (officially called a "wiggle test") and see if you can duplicate it at idle in the driveway.

It IS Lucas.
 
You have had several good suggestions. I once had a weak/broken motor mount. It caused the drive shaft to rub the tunnel.

My best guess is that you TR3A wants to be a NASCAR racer. :jester:
 
Thanks all for your input, especially the "don't turn right". I would have given that tip myself! I have some good leads here and I will report back the cure (I hope). It is probably the carbs because mine have been possessed by evil spirits ever since I got the car 8 years ago, but I refuse to change to Webers.........AL
 
I'd suspect water in the bowls. You'll see it in the fuel pump glass to, if that is what it is...

John
 
I'm with the loose motor mount, wire connection theory. Check the engine ground strap. It should be on the LH motor mount and jump from the frame to the engine block, across the mount. It's possible that is missing, the engine was still getting ground, but if it rocks to the left in a RH turn it looses what ground it was finding. Block the tires, put the shifter in nutral, then try pulling the engine side to side to see if a mount is bad. Also check battery connections/ hold-downs and like was already said, distributor, coil, and I'll add regulator connections. If all that doesn't turn anything up also check wires behind the dash. specifically ignition switch and ammeter connections.
Fire up the car and have it running while you gently wiggle/ tug those wires (one at a time). When it stalls, you found it.
After a good check of the wiring, then I'd move on to fuel.
Good luck.
 
I would say it is the floats. They have filled with gas and are giving you problems when you turn right.
 
tomgt6 said:
I would say it is the floats. They have filled with gas and are giving you problems when you turn right.
Click to expand...
Yup... too much gas in the fuel system :wink:
I couldn't help it... :jester:
 
I had a similar situation with a TR6 w/Z-S carbs, but on left hand turns. The float level was too high for a variety of reasons (levels set too high & sticky float valves) and when I turned left it wanted to flood out. Once all was sorted out it was/is ok. I assume your carbs are on the right side - so maybe your fuel levels are low?
 
tomgt6 said:
I would say it is the floats. They have filled with gas and are giving you problems when you turn right.
Click to expand...

Hi Tom - not arguing with you here but if the float was preventing fuel flow only in turns wouldn't there be enough fuel in the bowl still? I mean, the engine won't drain the bowl of usable fuel in a short turn. Sustained turn over a long time I can see.

Maybe best to say it this way - <span style="font-style: italic">how many seconds without incoming fuel flow would be required to starve the engine of fuel?</span>

Anyway, asking to help our friend here and on the chance I'll learn something along the way.
 
Mystery, isn't it !.

All I can add is that if it cuts out instantly, it's more likely electrical. If it hesitates then conks, look for fuel as the culprit.

I'd vote for something electrical if road bumps are the suspected cause.

Viv.
 
IF all the lights go out too,it's electrical
Don't know if this has been expounded on or not.
 
OK, I may be off here but when my floats started to fill with gas and stay at the bottom it allowed fuel in without stopping. Also you normally get a good gas smell as well and he isn't saying anything about that so I am sure I am wrong after more thought. But I seemed to notice an engine stall more when I turned. But after sitting all winter the floats could have filled part way with gas and are now giving funny results. So since you have the floats off make sure you shake them and see if fuel has gotten into the floats themselves.
 
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