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Which Toyota Calipers?

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I think what you see is the "brim" of the hat shaped piece he described a the top of this page. As I read it he needed that extra offset to clear the wire wheels, don't know if you'd need it for disc wheels or not.
 
Yes, I had to shim the caliper inboard to clear the hub on the wire wheel. I will probably get something better than washers made up eventually. I also had to grind off a large lug on the outside of the caliper too. As I said earlier, it's not the direct bolt-on I was lead to believe, but it isn't that hard either. The pads seem to matchup very well with the rotor with complete coverage. There is still the issue with one set of pistons extending more than the other, but that should not affect the hydraulic function. The pistons are long enough to still have enough left inside of the bore to prevent misalignment. I was thinking that I also could buy a set of pads, remove the friction materiel and bond the backing plate to the side with all the clearance this would act as a shim and take up the space. I am using AN bolts and the spridget tab washer to mount them.
 
Really nice work. I'm waiting for the pics of the clearance with the wheel at full lock and the suspension at full extension and compression, that's where the interferenced occured when I tired a 4 pot caliper. I tried both a Volvo and a Mazda unit, both had clearance issues. This Toyota caliper seems to fit a bit better.
 
Remember that this installation is not on a Spridget, but a kit car with tubular A-arms and very different geometry. In this case there is plenty of room. YMMV....
 
I realize that the A arms are different, but I think I can get a good idea from the photos using the upper and lower trunions as a reference. Right now it's something for the future, I just ordered new discs and green stuff pads for my car so I'll have those for a while anyway.
 
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