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Where would I start to get a little more HP.

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Trevor Jessie said:
Right...so in California, when you can no longer find replacement parts for your car's emission equipment you must scrap the car and thereby pollute the environment more by creating the need to manufacture a new one and recycle the old one. Makes perfect sense.

It seems that we should focus our efforts more on reusing and less on recycling.
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No, that is not correct. Actually, they do have some kind of system for that situation. If you can prove that you can't get the parts any more you can get a waiver or partial waiver (I think by substituting similar parts). However, the car still needs to meet the emissions levels for the year it was built. The system seems pretty reasonable to me, considering the very large impact that a few older cars can have to air quality. I used to work with a guy who was part of the technical arm of the air board. He was the most knowledgeable guy re: old cars that I ever met. He gave me quite a few tips on tuning my LBCs.
 
I feel quite confident I could make a 1500 Triumph engine run much cleaner using an aftermarket catalytic converter and a computer controlled system. Is this allowed? Or would I have to shell out extra money beyond the standard "smog" test?
 
dbshubin said:
So you believe my best bet is to sell this car and to buy a new one. Ok let's say I going to get a new one. What year should I look at? Which one is the best that I can tweek? Which one has the best ? that I don't even have a clue about yet? Which one would you suggest?
David
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Not necessarily, the other part of all of this is that while we all want go fast parts (including me) mine can go 70 mph all day long, 80 in a pinch. What do you want it for? If you want to race, get a 1275 car. If you want to drive and have fun and go get ice cream, you've likely got all the car you need.
 
No, I wish to stay legal. And it is a nice car, at least to me it is. It runs hasle free looks good, besides the fact I can't tweek with it. What else can I ask for?
Is there anyway of up grading the carb and still be legal? Or what else can I do and yet still be legal?
And thank you guys so much, you have filled my brain with info and possibilities:
David
 
Ok John-Peter Smit I think you make an excellent point with maybe this being all the car I will ever need. The reason I guess I am asking these questions is becouse I drove a different car the other day. And wow did that thing have some get up and go!! And I was just seeing if my car car be like that? But I guess that would be breaking one of the big 10 and it is #10 in fact. But it sure did feel good.
David
 
For David and Trevor I'm sure that what I suggested is illegal and I meant it mostly in jest. As you said Trevor, such things are done. I know of a Shelby mustang that began its life exactly that way and I'm sure the owner now has no idea!!

Kurt.
 
nomad said:
For David and Trevor I'm sure that what I suggested is illegal and I meant it mostly in jest. As you said Trevor, such things are done. I know of a Shelby mustang that began its life exactly that way and I'm sure the owner now has no idea!!

Kurt.
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Around these parts, ie. Pumpkintown, there are no smog police.
It's run what you brung.
My eldenbrock header, no cat,de-smogged,weber carbed FJ60 would make a smog inspector's heart stop. It runs like a scalded dawg however.
Rural life has it's pleasures.
:jester:
 
Another alternative may be to leave California and move to Texas.

Here, any car over 25 years old can be registered as an Antique. Re-registered every 5 years, no state inspection or smog test.

True, there are driving mileage limits (I think 7K/yr) but who among us drives our Brit cars more than that anyway. I know LOTS of antique owners and never heard of anyone having a problem "overdriving". My V8 Healey has been an Antique for over 15 years.

On top of all that, we don't have state income taxes, and our state budget is in surplus.

Come On Down - you'll love it here.

Tim
 
OK, lets back up. Are you sure your car is running properly. Maybe it just needs a tune up. Or maybe the rings are a little worn and the compression is a little low.
 
How do I find out the compressIon? Or is the only way is to take it to someone? Oh and by the way what is up with the list of cars after you type your message? Would that by chance be the list of cars you own? Am I allowed to do that as well?
David
 
dbshubin said:
How do I find out the compressIon? Or is the only way is to take it to someone? Oh and by the way what is up with the list of cars after you type your message? Would that by chance be the list of cars you own? Am I allowed to do that as well?
David
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Yes, it is the list of cars we own, and, yes you can do it by editing your profile. It's also very handy to have your Midget listed as we don't always remember to mention which car we have when we post questions, and, the answer often depends on specific year, engine etc.

One other solution that no one has mentioned (and apparently it is done in California is to have 2 engines - one for smog tests that is correct and one for the rest of the time. Some clubs even have one for the club. In terms of go fast stuff, certainly an SU or weber will be a better carb than the Zenith Stromberg - and you can always put the ZS back on at smog time.

Truthfully though, it's never going to be a rocket but it's a great cruiser and women & children LOVE it!!!
 
Oh ya and to Kurt. I like all kinds of options, legal and illegal. I don't want others to put limits on me. So thank you very much for your input also. I like to leave all possibilities open.
David
 
David

Let’s assume for a minute that your engine is stock and has not been rebuilt. The 1500 had 9.5:1 compression thru 1976 except CA, and 7.5:1 for 1977 thru to 1979 and all CA models. The quick way to tell what you have is to look at the engine number which is located on the left rear of the block just behind the distributor. On the Midget engines the number should start with an FP and end with either a UE, or an UCE. U=United States, C=California, and believe it or not the E=Engine. So if you have a '79 you SHOULD have a 7.5:1 compression ratio.

Your 1500 will probably never be a rocket off the line, but it shouldn’t be too boggy either. One of the biggest problems with the ZS carb is the water choke being out of adjustment or worn and causing the mixture to be too rich. There are two fixes for this. The most common is to replace the water choke with a manual choke. The other is to rebuild your water chock. It's actually quite easy to do and does work. I have a PDF on how to do it that I can send you if your interested.
John Twist of University Motors also has a three part Youtube video series on how to do it as well as this write up on ZS tuning tips.

https://www.bmcno.org/tech%20tips/zenith%20stromberg%20tech%20tips.htm

As for HP gains for the 1500. Here is a link on working up a 1500 and one on a EFI option using the ZS carb body as a the throttle body

https://www.totallytriumph.net/spitfire/engine_building.shtml

https://www.pattonmachine.com/

Good Luck
 
And yes Rich I am having problems with the choke right now. So yes I am very interested in info on rebuilding it. What ever you can get me that would be great. I can't believe how helpful everyone has been here. Thank you very much.
 
David, if you want to make your car a pre 75 you don't have to buy a whole car just the VIN and ID plates. if you need them I have a drawer full from parts cars I have purchased. and it only cost about two stamps. that offer is good for anyone else on the BCF also.
 
First thank you Rich and everyone for all your help you've offered. It has been priceless to say the least.

Yes I would love info on how to rebuild my carb. Right now I have a more pressing issue at hand. My car won't even start now! And I don't know why. I will tell you the whole story. Last weekend I put some stuff on the engine to clean it. I hosed it off. (not pressure washed it) I then drove it on Tuesday morning and then today Thursday it won't start. Where do you think I should look first?

Do you think it's getting fuel?
Is it getting spark? And how do I check for that?
What else could it be?
 
what does it - or doesn't it do?

1. does it turn over?
2. if it turns over, does it fire?
3. if it fires, does it not catch?
4. if it doesn't turn over, does it click?

we need a little more info.

BTW, love your "signature" 'cept mine is actually the cool car. :whistle:

In terms of the carb, you can buy a rebuild kit for not too much - basically keep track of what you took apart and how and reassemble accordingly - not that hard if you keep track.
 
I will almost bet that there is water in the distributer and the points are wet with water.
If you just pull your distributer cap off and leave it off for about 5 hours (or less if you guys are under a "Santa Anna"). That should allow all of the water to evaporate and you will be good to go!
These distributors were never sealed against water too well.
Bill
 
It just cranks and cranks, but never fires up. I found the carb loose and I tightened it, but it did no good.
 
I took the distibutor cap off and it was as dry as a bone. ( but I think our bones are wet ) anyways it was very dry. :smile:
 
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