Where to send AH 3000 Generator for Rebuilding?

[Michael Oritt]

If using the usual alternator conversion kit that utilizes a NAPA unit I would recommend spending the few extra bucks and getting the NAPA Gold unit. It is probably not rebuilt to any better standard than the lower priced units they sell but it does come with a lifetime guarantee and I went through several units before finding one that worked. The regulator went defective on one and the front bearing on a second failed in short order and I took both back for replacement.

Whereas I used the NAPA unit on my wife's 3000 on my 100 I have a Leece-Neville (Prestolite) 75 amp alternator with a voltage regulator that is mounted on the outside of the case and thus is more easily serviced, not that I have needed to do so in about 50K miles of driving with it. It did require fabricating a mount but that was not too difficult.

 

[saysprite]

A friend at work has a 100-4 and he just sent his generator to Star in Monrovia. It was $250 plus shipping I think. Turn around in 2 days. He's suppose to get it back Tuesday.

 

[fwtexasbj8]

Matt,
Don't know if you are still looking for an original option, but Fort Worth Starter and Generator rebuilt my BJ-8 generator and I have been very pleased. They have also helped with regulator issues adn really know what they are doing.

 

[mrdibbles]

I decided to rebuild my existing generator. The company I chose was Star Electric and I have to say that they were incredible. The customer service was awesome and the delivered product was nicer than I could have hoped. Mike at Star Electric told me that the failure of this generator was caused not by over tightening the fan belt but by the bearing in the back going out. Likely due to inadequate lubrication. I had a complete rebuild done, with all new internal components plus <span style="text-decoration: underline">sealed</span> bearings. No need for future oiling! Anyway the generator was media blasted and all parts powder coated. I think it looks beautiful.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I decided to rebuild my existing generator. The company I chose was Star Electric and I have to say that they were incredible. The customer service was awesome and the delivered product was nicer than I could have hoped. Mike at Star Electric told me that the failure of this generator was caused not by over tightening the fan belt but by the bearing in the back going out. Likely due to inadequate lubrication. I had a complete rebuild done, with all new internal components plus <span style="text-decoration: underline">sealed</span> bearings. No need for future oiling! Anyway the generator was media blasted and all parts powder coated. I think it looks beautiful.

I stand to be corrected, but isn't the "rear bearing" you referred to a "bushing"? If it's a bushing it will still need an occassional lube(at least I was told that by my rebuilder).
Maybe theres a way to install a bearing in the rear?
Patrick

 

[mrdibbles]

I just confirmed with Mike at Star and he said it was the rear bearing (on the pulley side) that went bad. He confirmed it wasn't from overtightening. Instead the bearing just lost all of it's lubricant and burned up.

 

[Johnny]

Just completed rebuilding a generator for a local car club member. All parts came from MOSS (I ordered just about everything on page 87 of their catalog) and incl. shipping cost $52.40.

I replaced both the front bearing and the rear bushing, plus new brushes and replaced the woodruff key that holds the fan and pulley on. I also cleaned the armature up a bit. All and all it took me about 4 hours, and I work very slow. Here's some things I've learned about restoring generators;

1. Don't even try and remove the rear bushing with a screwdriver. I use a broken hacksaw blade and just cut it lengthwise, then with a small pointy tool lift it up and work it out. Before replacing don't forget a new oiler and don't forget the metal washer that holds the oiler in place.

2. Install the armature in the rear plate first with the brushes in place, then slide the whole thing in all the way.

Hope this helps

 

[starauto]

Matt thank you for your feedback, much appreciated. As most you are aware I just starting posting on the Forum recently but I have been professionally remanufacturing generators since 1976. I see by many posts that many members have problems with remanufacutured Lucas generators, alternators and starters, please don't blame Lucas for this. This is caused by bad quality refurbished components. When we recieved Matt's generator as we do will all the generators we refurbish, we automatically install a high quality rewound armature, brand new field coils, new brushes, a sealed neoprene bearing on the pulley side end frame and a new bushing on the other side end frame. Techonoly has advanced and the bearing is sealed not open and so no lubrication is ever required, quite the difference from thirty - forty years ago there were not any sealed bearings available, also new bushings are now made with oil inpregnation, meaning the oil is already inside the material, this means no lubrication needed.
Most of the generator that the vehicle have are thirty forty years old that means the armature and field coils are also the same age, if when the generator is sent for refurbishing these components are not replace the generator will not perform correctly.
Many electrical rebuilding shops cannot refurbish these generators because they simple do not have availability for the new field coils and armature, we always try to have stock available, sometimes we run out of armatures but we usually will have stock rapidly available again.
Have faith in Lucas components if the units are refurbish correctly, they will perform just as well as any other brand name unit.

Sincerely,
Mike Martinez
Star Auto Electric Company

 

[big6]

When reinstalling the generator be sure to flash the generator to set the polarity as described in the service manual. To bench test the generator you can connect the field terminal to the generator housing and using a 12 volt DC power source connect one lead to the armature terminal and the other lead to the generator body will make the generator operate as a DC motor. If the generator motors you are good to go… Again be sure to flash the field terminal after reinstalling.

 

[mrdibbles]

That's a good point Big6. Polarization is key. My unit was bench tested at Star Electric (for negative ground) as a part of the rebuild services. As a result I can just install the unit without going through the polarization step.

 

[Michael Oritt]

I too believe there is a bushing in the back though maybe some folks have replaced it with a bearing.

For those anywhere in the mid-Atlantic states I would recommend sending your starters, generators, alternators, electric motors, etc. to Wenger's Electric in Loveville, MD. on Bishop Road (sorry I do not have the address or phone number handy,

Not that it matters (though maybe it does) but the Wengers are Mennonites and the father and three sons run the place. Not only are they competent but they are honest as the day is long and are really nice, gentle folks. Being located in Southern Maryland they are used to "old fashioned" equipment and are used to repairing things rather than throwing them away and selling a replacement.

Once I went in to their shop to have a two-spool voltage regulator adjusted (prior to my putting in an alternator). Wenger Senior spent about 15 minutes on the job and gave me a bill for $10.00 or so dollars, saying that their shop rate was $40/per hour and he spent 1/4 of an hour on the job. I was flabbergasted. He ultimately sold me a 75 amp Leece-Neville alternator for my 100 with shimmable pulley halves which saved me having to change over to a smaller belt. the alternator is an industrial model with an externally mounted voltage regulator making for easy replacement (which I have never had to do in 7 years)

In any case they are country folks and live amongst many Amish neighbors so I always mind my manners when I go in to their shop which is plastered with religious tracks about judgement day although they do not prosceletize at all. Just don't take the Lord's name in vain when you talk to them as it will offend them, not that they would say anything. They are open Monday to Saturday and closed on their sabbath.

You can find their address and phone in the yellow pages I am sure (No, they do not have a website) and will receive and return your parts via UPS.

You cannot do better than them.

 

[Michael Oritt]

BTW one of the advantages of living in a rural area is that there is still plenty of guys with "Old Fashioned" talent who are alive, if not so well. There is a fellow named Bob who ran a radiator shop in Lexington Park up until a few years ago but retired and closed his shop due to ill health (breathing all those toxic fumes)and no doubt a lack of business now tha people throw radiators away rather than repair them. He was used to repairing copper radiators, not selling new aluminum/plastic ones and was a casualty of modernization as well as working with toxic materials such as copper and lead, etc. (cough cough).

But Bob couldn't quite give up what he had done his whole life so he built a miniature radiator shop in his back yard and will still repair copper radiators, etc. if on a reduced scale. I had a leak in the radiator of my Elva and called Bob to ask if he would be willing to fix it. He grumbled a bit but told me to come down to his house. When I got there he was wearing his coveralls just as he used to, the gas flame was going and he quickly made the repair, brazing on a new bottom elbow. He charged me very little and I think I made his day!

We also have guys who know how to work on (no [censored]!) carburated engines without brain boxes and can mount tires by hand onto my Magnesium wheels versus using those scary machines that all the tire dealers utilize (staffed by kids who yesterday were flipping burgers). There are plenty of competent welders and since draggig is abig deal around here there are also fabricators. Even the parts stores seem to carry stuff for older cars. I went into a Carquest the other day and came out with a pinion bearing for my Sprite rear end. Pretty cool not having to order from Moss and wait several days!

Real estate is fairly cheap down here, there are plenty of great farm to market roads to drive on, lots of gearheads and the people are nice, if a bit redneck.

If you're ever in the Southern Maryland (pronounced "Southern Murrland) which is comprised of Calvert and Saint Mary's county please look me up. We can go to the stock car races or the demolition derby!

 

[Keoke]

Now Bob, that sounds llke an original thought. I was wondering don't people take simple things like this to the garage and rebuild them any more--?????----Keoke- :laugh:

 

[why]

What does flash mean? I have had my '65 3000 generator out several times, replaced brushes one of those times, and just put it back in and it would work fine. Intermittent problem turned out corrosion in terminal on battery cable. Years of screwing around with at a certain underhood temp (10-40 min after shutting off), car would make a near dead battery sound for a second and then quit turning. Two years now after taking off cable terminal, separting copper strands and cleaning within an inch of its life, all is well. Never flashed generator on at least three in and out trying to find problem. Star did a fine job on my '67Etype alternator.

 

[Keoke]

What does flash mean?

It is a very commonly used term to indicate how a generator is polarised after being removed from the car for a repair and reinstalled.

I have had my '65 3000 generator out several times, replaced brushes one of those times, and just put it back in and it would work fine.

Sometimes this will work. However, for that one time it does not work and the generator should have been polarised you are going to let all that good British smoke out which may require a new set of fields before it will make smoke again. I recommend being safe rather than sorry and polarise the generator during it's installation on the car.


Intermittent problem turned out corrosion in terminal on battery cable. Years of screwing around with at a certain underhood temp (10-40 min after shutting off), car would make a near dead battery sound for a second and then quit turning. Two years now after taking off cable terminal, separting copper strands and cleaning within an inch of its life, all is well. Never flashed generator on at least three in and out trying to find problem. Star did a fine job on my '67Etype alternator.

----Keoke