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Hope it was helpful, Mike. I doubt you've done the BMW any ill, as long as you did the job with the engine off. Don't laugh! I've heard some say "run the engine. The ABS system has to circulate the fluid." BAH! Any missed fluid has minimal effect.
I didn't use that machine very often. Only if, like Doc said, I opened a system to find dark nasty looking fluid.
the other part of that is around here, being snugly in the middle of the rust belt, often times bleeders break off when trying to open them. Now a quick easy job just became a time consuming, potentially expensive PITA.
Never worked in a production shop (I don't consider the western PA Porsche-Audi/Lotus/Alfa shop an actual "production" outfit back-when), so haven't used anything past a Gunson "EeeziBleed" to make it a one man operation. ISTR getting that through "MG Mitten" decades ago(?). But it has served well through a couple independent operations over forty years.
Wouldn't want to count the number of bleed screws I've had to use an "easy-out" or ~other more obnoxious means~ to remove.
I've heard tales of shops telling customers: "Sorry, but your caliper/wheel cylinder is beyond repair. And we can't just replace the one side, we have to replace both sides on that axle."
That is a horrible, upsell lie.
Pretty hard to get air in the sealed brake system. The most common reason for a brake flush is that DOT 3/4 fluid is hydroscopic, so it can absorb moisture from the air which will degrade braking ability. You can't tell that unless you actually test it though, which is really easy.
In the shop I used the one below, which measures the electrical conductivity of the fluid. More water better conduction. Easy gauge
to read, and much better that the old test strips and........cheap
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