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When a good cylinder head swap goes bad...

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Looks like you used the Valve cover stud holes to bolt the chains down? Did you actually raise, then lower the car while keeping the chain tight? [/QUOTE]

Kent,

The car was on the ground at that point. We used the crane to pull up on it. At that point, the rope had it broken away from the block, but that one area of the stud just would not budge.

Finally, with the intake completely out of the way, a larger pry bar wedged in, closer to the stud and the lift pulling up, it did slowly come loose.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]The Triumph chief designer of the late fifties would not be impressed, his test was top gear, ten miles an hour uphill and pull away steadily without a stutter, obviously not a performance engine man.
[/QUOTE]

Alec,

I guess that it's still some of my old school mentality. Years ago (60-70's) after tuning a car, we followed the same procedure, whereby if you slowed way down in top gear, then lugged it up to speed with no pinging or chugging, the car was generally good to go. I always try to avoid detonation and that is an area where it will show, when under a severe load.

While I don't do it on a steep hill, I failed to mention that I try to have at least a slight to moderate incline to prove it out.
 
Re: When a good cylinder gead swap goes bad...

Brosky said:
Jeff,

The header is the one that no one likes, except me and Tom. It's a Pacesetter, coated in and out with JetHot Coating. And yes, it is definitely cooler running than a stock manifold (about 15 degrees) and it cools down twice as fast.
Click to expand...

So what's not to like??? Actually, if my engine ran much cooler I would need an aux heat source. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif And like Paul says, the header cools down very fast.

https://smithtr6.com/images/forum_pics/to_brad/300_trip_1.jpg

Just got home from another day trip. Turned 50,000 original miles this weekend and well over 4,000 since the engine build was finished in mid July.
 
Re: When a good cylinder gead swap goes bad...

I just put on a bunch of miles going to the Cape and back today and it ran just great!! No leaks either! (knock on wood!)
 
Re: When a good cylinder gead swap goes bad...

Soon Tom, our intrepid comrade in Puerto Rico will understand this to be true, as well....
 
Re: When a good cylinder gead swap goes bad...

A Grand Plan! Laps to celebrate the Exorcism. This has become quite an armchair adventure; it needs some kinda ceremonial Triumphant end-time celebration.

---pun intended--- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
 
Re: When a good cylinder gead swap goes bad...

I pledge 100 miles of (under 45mph) TeeYah driving to aid the exorcism.

Tom
 
Re: When a good cylinder gead swap goes bad...

I'll even give it another 50/50 for that day. 50 out and 50 back, if not more! Top down, even if it's cold.
 
Re: When a good cylinder gead swap goes bad...

Who don't like our headers?

My pacesetter was jethot coated back about 91 or so.


Mebbe for the purists our pacesetter's ain't perfect. But then again these aren't Aston Martins.........
 
Re: When a good cylinder gead swap goes bad...

Ah, you know, Ron. The usual naysayers, but the guy in the drivers seat knows best and I'm happy!!
 
Re: When a good cylinder gead swap goes bad...

Paul,

A question for you. I thought I read you milled the head, maybe I didn't. If you did, did you find it necessary to shim the rocker pedestal and/or use shorter push rods?

I did much the same thing to my 6 and got several conflicting opinions on shimming/pushrods. I did neither, as there seemed to be enough adjustment in the rockers.

Gordo
 
Re: When a good cylinder gead swap goes bad...

Gordo,

Good question. When I bought the eBay head, there was probably .010" to .020" removed. Thank goodness it was no where near the 10 to 1 compression that the seller said it was. After checking for leaks and cracks, we agreed that it was OK, so the chambers were cc'd, another .080" was removed to get me between 8.75 and 9.00 to 1 compression.

I just made it with the stock push rods. Any more taken off and the GT6 rods would have had gone in.
 
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