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Tips

Wheel conversion?

newguy

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My TR3A currently has Minilites on her. I am thinking about a change to 60 spoke chrome wires. Please, any thoughts positive or negative. Also any do's or dont's when installing or using the wires.
 
Chrome wires look great, but Man, are they a PITA to clean and maintain. I replaced the ones on the Stag, because they were "original", but I wish I'd gone for alloy wheels instead.

Don't forget you have to shorten the studs when installing the wire wheel adapters; then replace them if you decide to go back to solid wheels.

The wires should also be serviced annually, which means at minimum taking them off the car, cleaning and re-lubricating the splines and threads. I didn't do that on the Stag, and when it came time to change tires (on the way to VTR 2005 some 700 miles from home), we almost couldn't get the spinners off. Had to work in shifts, beating the crap out of them! In extreme cases, I've seen them cut apart with a torch (which of course means a new wheel & adapter).
 
Actually, I'd leave the studs as is, and buy a set of 1/4" spacers - that way you could switch easily between the two options, especially if you keep the alloys.

A couple of vendors are out there that sell 4x4.5" spacers for that kind of thing, one that comes to mind is Joe Alexander who you can catch on ebay or his website. Expect that to cost maybe around $50 for a set.
 
I put new Dayton 60's on my three with the spacers from Revington. Took the wheels to the local tire place and they put tires (Kumho 165/80-15's)on and balanced them very nicely...don't know if I were lucky but they are not WW specialists. No wobble or shimmy, vast improvement over the solid original wheels (probably out of round).
A little anti seize goes a long way on the hubs, don't overtighten thelock nut/spinner.
Maint on the hubs is easy as you just whack the spinner off and remove, tire changes are a breeze.
I do have a 5th wire as the spare and it does fit in the compartment, the wheel does not touch anything but the tire is a pita in my earlier smaller tire boot.
Can't inflate all the way. Have a foot pump.
 
newguy said:
My TR3A currently has Minilites on her. I am thinking about a change to 60 spoke chrome wires...

There's a currently active post from 'Reggie5' who wants to convert from wires to alloy wheels. Maybe you to should talk.

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...toration#UNREAD

As for spacers in lieu of shortening the studs -- that is what I do. I got mine at a local wheel shop but I believe even Pep Boys et al carry them these days.

spacers.JPG


This set-up lets me switch between wires & steel & alloys -- pointless but fun. Personally I have always felt chrome wires were a bit much on a TR3 & prefer the look of painted wires, but to each his own.
 
prb51 said:
the wheel does not touch anything but the tire is a pita in my earlier smaller tire boot.
One solution for that is to use a "compact spare" tire. I picked up a T135/70D15 at a junkyard for about $10 that fits on a stock TR3 rim and leaves room to spare in the spare tire well. I literally have to stuff other things in with it to keep it from sliding around!

Or, I just noticed that TireRack is once again carrying a 155/80-15 tire that would probably fit well.
 
Geo Hahn said:
Personally I have always felt chrome wires were a bit much on a TR3 & prefer the look of painted wires, but to each his own.

:iagree:

I put 72 spoke painted wires on my TR3 because I wanted to go with wider tires. Since my car originally had wires, it had the short studs. I use one of the old 60 spoke narrow wheels for a spare.
 

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The Daytons aren't chrome wires, they are stainless steel for the strength factor so you could paint the wires only as the rim is chrome unless you order them from Dayton powder coated any color you'd like.
Randall, great idea on the spare tire replacement, I'll look into that as it would make a great parts/tools storage area.
The T135/70D15 all have the correct bolt patterns?
 
I use the Alum spacers that Joe Alexander makes, they work well. Like the option of changing wheels. Steel wheels for everyday driving, wires for show and I don't have to clean them as much.

Marv
 
prb51 said:
The Daytons aren't chrome wires, they are stainless steel for the strength factor so you could paint the wires only as the rim is chrome unless you order them from Dayton powder coated any color you'd like.

Stainless steel spokes are weaker than plain steel spokes.
 
Twosheds said:
Stainless steel spokes are weaker than plain steel spokes.
Depends entirely on which stainless steel; there are some very high strength stainless alloys. For example, ARP has developed a stainless alloy rated at 260,000 psi; over <span style="font-weight: bold">four times</span> as strong as "plain steel" Grade 1 bolts.

Also depends on relative size; my chrome/SS Daytons have spokes that are noticeably beefier than the original chromed spokes were. Plus of course, the chroming process weakens the steel spokes (which is why they use stainless instead of chrome).
 
I am shopping wheel spacers also. I ended up with a very good set of 48 spoke painted wheels and a good set of std wheels. Since I have seen so many posts about the weakness of the 48 spoke wheels, I thought I might like switching off for any seriously spirited driving but leave the 48 spokes on for shows and Sunday drives.

Anyone else using 48 spokes? Interested to know of issues or concerns. Obviously more spokes are better but that is what I have and no budget to move to 60's.

Griff
 
You'll be ok if not driving in a spirited fashion as long as in good shape. I'd also check the steel wheels for hairlines...they are know to crack around the stud holes...I couldn't get mine properly balanced either.
 
Are you keeping the old Minilites?
 
griff said:
Anyone else using 48 spokes? Interested to know of issues or concerns.

I use the original 48-spoke wheels from 1959. I have driven some quite spirited miles on them over the past 29 years with no problem.

I did put 60-spokers on the TR3 racecar.
 
Marv,
Some of the factory teams rallied on the 48's so if in good shape go for it. I've used Revington spacers on my 60's for years with no issues.
BTW whats the build number of your 56? Mine is TS14502L.
 
I just wouldn't do it. Aluminum wheels are just better. Stay whith what you've got and spend your money somewhere else. Wire wheels are just more work and hassle. Spend your money on a professional head porting job instead or some other performance upgrade. my .02 cents
Rob
 
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