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What's the hardest repair on a triumph?

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I dont know about the hardest, but the easiest would be to sell it and buy an MG..


mark
 
I also have heard that changing the windscreen on a "B" ain't no picnic either! :sick:
 
:lol:

I'd swap out points in a fleet of MGBs rather than ONE windscreen replacement. No problem at ALL accessing the dizzy.

The machine with a challenging points replacement exercise is these old Lotus engines. Thing's hidden down underneath the front Weber and requires two extra elbow joints to access. You can either SEE it or you can touch it... but can't do both at the same time.
 
Hi Guy, Thanks for the op to talk about one of my favorite things. No, my 7 is not a Spider. The spiders were all 1980 models with the California ones fuel injected. All the 1981 7s were fuel injected and those of us who own them consider them the best ones. The spider was a Michelotti inspired decal and trim job and the only 7s that were legitimatly black from the factory. They are very collectable as they were limited production and super cool looking with day glo red decals on the deep black paint. My 7 is none of the above, though I enjoy the heck out of it and drive it to work at least once a week and every day in inclement weather. With the FI and the engine very sound now, it makes for a very driveable and reliable ride.
 
Hi Doc, I will eventually have to do points and or distributor work on my J-H, but I'm not looking forward to it. I would imagine that taking the carbs and intake manifold off is the only way to gain access. I just paid big bucks to have the tach repaired, but not to function with a pointless ignition. (there's an oxymoronic turn of phrase)So I'm stuck with periodic ignition work. I can't complain about the function of the points, but the serviceability is certainly in question.
 
DrEntropy said:
:lol:

I'd swap out points in a fleet of MGBs rather than ONE windscreen replacement. No problem at ALL accessing the dizzy.

The machine with a challenging points replacement exercise is these old Lotus engines. Thing's hidden down underneath the front Weber and requires two extra elbow joints to access. You can either SEE it or you can touch it... but can't do both at the same time.
Click to expand...

And even tho' it's only a Stromberg carb, on the Europa it seems to be concealed even more than a Cortina or Escort, and maybe more than an Elan even.
 
...door handle pins....piece of cake, get a nail of the same dia, measure the lenght, use your engineer pliers and cut/score around the nail at the correct distance almost but not quite through. With handle in place use a stiff paint stick to push in the door panel,insert the nail in the handle hole to the score line,bend back and forth once and it will snap off and bingo. Job done
 
..Oh I see MG's in the mix...one of my fav's is the motor mounts on the late MGB's,drivers side especially, insanity is a English tradition.
 
OK, I am up against it, replacing the pin that holds the clutch fork in place, when the pin breaks, I have to transmission out and apart, except that one piece, I have tried a screw extractor from the end that goes in, and have drilled a hole from the other side to try to push it out, so far it is still stuck, arghh and double arghh. It is not really holding anything up at this point but needs to be done. I know it is sort of a unique situation, as I have a broken part, but as I understand it this is a fairly common break.

I am about ready to take a sawzall to the thing.
 
While you are there throw in a lightened flywheel.
 
glemon said:
OK, I am up against it, replacing the pin that holds the clutch fork in place, when the pin breaks, I have to transmission out and apart, except that one piece, I have tried a screw extractor from the end that goes in, and have drilled a hole from the other side to try to push it out, so far it is still stuck, arghh and double arghh. It is not really holding anything up at this point but needs to be done. I know it is sort of a unique situation, as I have a broken part, but as I understand it this is a fairly common break.

I am about ready to take a sawzall to the thing.
Click to expand...

I think a broken pin is more the norm than the exception - if you can get a drill on the end that goes in, it might be worth trying to drill through most of the pin with a thinner bit, then punch it out from the other side. The drill will let the pin collapse on itself slightly, which worked for me once. On the other one, it was sawzall time..

Randy
 
Dale said:
Hi Doc, I will eventually have to do points and or distributor work on my J-H, but I'm not looking forward to it. I would imagine that taking the carbs and intake manifold off is the only way to gain access. I just paid big bucks to have the tach repaired, but not to function with a pointless ignition. (there's an oxymoronic turn of phrase)So I'm stuck with periodic ignition work. I can't complain about the function of the points, but the serviceability is certainly in question.
Click to expand...

Do as Box-o-Rocks suggests: pull the dizzy out to do the points. Use a static light and set the crank to 10* BTDC or ~just~ where the points "break", yank the dizzy, change and set points gap, stuff it back in and time it with the static light. MUCH easier than fighting the thing in-situ or pulling induction off. Sounds daunting but with practice can be done in ten minutes. Really.
 
glemon said:
and have drilled a hole from the other side to try to push it out,
Click to expand...
Don't forget that you have to turn and position the shaft, so that the hole is lined up with the broken pin inside the shaft.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I am about ready to take a sawzall to the thing. [/QUOTE]One of those cheap angle grinders from HF, with an abrasive cutoff blade, will go through it faster. Not such a bad idea, as usually by the time the taper pin breaks, the shaft is worn as well. TRF has new ones on sale for $30.

BTW, I advocate converting to the wide brass bushings used on the TR2-4; plus adding grease zerks to both sides so they can be lubricated. The Stag didn't have room for zerks on the shaft as the TR2-4 had, so I drilled & tapped the gearbox housing instead.

And I assume you'll be reinforcing the taper pin.
 
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