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What's the hardest repair on a triumph?

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Hey, Odd,

The clutch isn't so bad if you drop the rear crossmember. I used a floor jack to raise and lower the back of the trans as necessary to access all of the bolts. Now, get the trans off the engine, that takes some work. Hum? Putting the trans back in isn't a picnic either.

The one I dislike the most is the lower steering bush. But I did twist one of the tie rod arms once. That was a bear to get off the rack!

jclay
 
It's all easy compared to 'modern' vehicles.n It's all doable just takes some thinking and imagination (and a little help from your friends).
 
I'll agree with Ray. The first jobs were very tough because of the lack of proper tools, manuals and knowledge.
 
My vote is doing the clutch on a Stag. Even the workshop manual says it takes two people to remove some of the bolts holding the flywheel housing to the bellhousing; and one of them has to have much smaller diameter forearms than I do. Last time I literally greased my arm with Vaseline to make it easier to force into the tiny space between the bellhousing and body, and still wound up with a fair amount of skin missing.

Oh yeah, you also have to be able to disassemble the exhaust system at the joint in front of both mufflers.

Most of the other jobs are just tedious, or require special tools.

PS, And I know someone that has the right tool to do TR3/4 rear hubs. When the time comes, I'll just take a drive to Pine Mountain with the hubs & a case of Heineken and Hey Presto.
 
Putting new emergency brake cables in was mega-frustrating to me, but I have not ventured in yet on any of the above mentioned repairs.
 
It's all relative, of course, to your level of skill and your tool box contents (or lack thereof)!

But assuming that I had requisite skill and tools for any repair job, I think body work requires the greatest amount of skill and ability. You've gotta know <span style="text-decoration: underline">exactly</span> what you're doing to repair, replace, prep and paint (correctly/nicely) bent panels, or replace and repair a rusted A-pillar. And, there's nowhere to hide if you do it wrong.

After that, I must concur with others here that the rotoflex couplings on a GT6 are consistently awful to replace. They're ALWAYS rusted/corroded and completely frozen in place, which requires heat, brute force, cursing, and hours of tedious work, including bloody hands. Thank goodness, the Metalastik doughnuts last about 30-40,000 miles, or more!

For most of us amateur shadetree mechanics I think the key is the help of skilled friends, without whom I wouldn't be here posting today. The relationships I've made through local LBC clubs and car meets have proven indispensible to my LBC hobby, no doubt about it. Without the help of (skilled) friends, I'd have no LBC hobby.

LBC = friends: a very nice combo, IMHO.
 
vagt6 said:
Without the help of (skilled) friends, I'd have no LBC hobby.

LBC = friends: a very nice combo, IMHO.
Click to expand...

all the above - with BCF added - AMEN!

Tom
 
Stopping EVERY oil leak ! HA
I don't think it has ever been done.
R
 
Hardest repair job on a TR? Clearly trying to make them handle as well as an MG is the most frustrating.... ;-)
 
trfourtune said:
Stopping EVERY oil leak ! HA
Click to expand...
That's not a repair, that's a redesign !
 
I will admitt that after 20 plus years of working on almost every type of british car and I think the TR7/8 gas tank is the biggest pain in the rump, but I think the #1 for me would be a TR7 water pump. When they do not come out, 90% of the time it is no holds barred war; hammers, chisels, torches, anything! In the end either you have all the parts out or you need to look for another engine block! It is that bad!
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Stopping EVERY oil leak[/QUOTE]

Now wait a minute Randall. He never stated for "how long" the oil leaks had to be stopped. Or if being shut off counted?
 
Well, if being out of fluids counted, then it would hardly be difficult. My TR3 project didn't leak a drop when I got it, but that was only because no one had topped it up in 30 years
grin.gif
 
RUST. It never sleeps, the metal is trying to return to the earth from which it was rudely ripped to become a car. :wall:
 
I was phenomoly lucky when my water pump went out, as it had only been installed a few years earlier. Once I got to it,(the FI manifold is a bigger pain than the carbureted version) it came out so easily I thought sure I had broken something pricey. I just hope this pump lasts longer than the other one. When the pump went out it filled the sump with water and stranded me quicker than you can say jack the bear. Did offer the opportunity to replace the head gasket and properly torque and retorque the head. That made a world of difference in the cooling systems overall operation. Not to mention the improved driveabilty. Most of my problems with repairs are head problems. My head, not the cars. Convincing myself that I can do it and getting started are the biggies. That's where this forum is indispensible. Thanks All.
 
Dale,

Is your TR7 with FI a "Spider"? I never knew what those were,but that they were rare and I thought that all TR7's had ZS carbs.
 
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