-
Hey Guest!
British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
What type/brand of buffer/polisher...
- Thread starter 198686d
- Start date
Share this page
Brosky
Great Pumpkin
Offline
What Doug says is entirely true. Wet sanding freshly applied paint to keep the heat of the buffer and excessive compound off of the new paint is always better in my opinion. Again, it's preparation that is the key to a good job.
But for the average guy with a seasoned paint job, or a new paint job that is already compounded professionally, the RO's are the easiest and best for routine maintenance and waxing. I'm seriously thinking about the Griot's or Porter models for my new paint job. That is what the body shop used, so why fight with the success of a pro?
I'm used to the old B&D, but I don't use it as often as I used to twenty years ago, so I don't want to screw up a perfect paint job from being rusty with a tool.
But for the average guy with a seasoned paint job, or a new paint job that is already compounded professionally, the RO's are the easiest and best for routine maintenance and waxing. I'm seriously thinking about the Griot's or Porter models for my new paint job. That is what the body shop used, so why fight with the success of a pro?
I'm used to the old B&D, but I don't use it as often as I used to twenty years ago, so I don't want to screw up a perfect paint job from being rusty with a tool.
PeterK
Yoda
Offline
I have the Porter 7424 which I purchsed for my Audi to buff out minor scuffs. But to be honest, I rarely use it. I have a claybar pad from Griots' but almost always claybar by hand with Griot's claybar. I then follow with high quality Carnauba a year and use detail glaze in between.
Now, here's where it gets a little weird. A few years I picked up a couple of jars of Zymol Ital Estate wax at a deal, I think I paid around $50 for both, or less. Well this stuff is expensive at $385 for a 6oz jar - I had NO idea of this when I purchased it. https://www.autoanything.com/car-care/69A1526A0A0.aspx But there is even more really high end stuff out there that sells over $1000! A little weird or for people who just have way too much money.
So back to the Ital wax. It has a very high carnauba content and to apply, you first scoop a wad if it into your palm and then let your body heat melt the chips a little. Then using your bare palm, rub it deeping into the paint. I really like this method. After a detail wash and dry, and then a clar bar, the paint is smooth as a baby's butt. The real beauty of hand applying wax is that you can feel even the smallest imperfection as you apply it. So you can flick off tiny tar spots or bug juice etc and correct the finish. My secret to using Carnauba (the real stuff with chips) is to lightly remove it before it dries as it melts down into the finish. Do NOT wait for the wax to dry into a powdery finish because it will never happen with carnauba - the white powder is because some of the lesser waxes contain clay i.e. as a cleaner. Also if you let Carnauba dry to hardness, you will have huge guns trying to get it off of your paint. Remove BEFORE it hardens using long strokes front to rear, not circles or side to side (to minimize swirl and light reflection), then after the first waxing of the entire car, go back and spritz with water and rebuff (again by hand only.) You will be rewarded and the finish will remain for months.
Now, NONE of this applies to my TRs, the finish is just not close to that good and I doubt that Triumphs ever produced a paint job worthy of this wax. For the TRs, I take the same care of the finish but use Griot's carnauba ($20)and apply with a wax pad instead. But the principle applies. SO IMO a polisher has it place in correcting imperfections but to keep a finish looking (and feeling) great, it just takes work ... or devotion.
I have more modern thinking friends that swear by Zaino brothers paint finish - it's not wax, doesn't smell or feel like wax but I must admit it does shine nicely. See it here https://www.zainostore.com/ It's just not for me. Personally, I like the sensory enrichment of the feel, smells, and the process.
Now, here's where it gets a little weird. A few years I picked up a couple of jars of Zymol Ital Estate wax at a deal, I think I paid around $50 for both, or less. Well this stuff is expensive at $385 for a 6oz jar - I had NO idea of this when I purchased it. https://www.autoanything.com/car-care/69A1526A0A0.aspx But there is even more really high end stuff out there that sells over $1000! A little weird or for people who just have way too much money.
So back to the Ital wax. It has a very high carnauba content and to apply, you first scoop a wad if it into your palm and then let your body heat melt the chips a little. Then using your bare palm, rub it deeping into the paint. I really like this method. After a detail wash and dry, and then a clar bar, the paint is smooth as a baby's butt. The real beauty of hand applying wax is that you can feel even the smallest imperfection as you apply it. So you can flick off tiny tar spots or bug juice etc and correct the finish. My secret to using Carnauba (the real stuff with chips) is to lightly remove it before it dries as it melts down into the finish. Do NOT wait for the wax to dry into a powdery finish because it will never happen with carnauba - the white powder is because some of the lesser waxes contain clay i.e. as a cleaner. Also if you let Carnauba dry to hardness, you will have huge guns trying to get it off of your paint. Remove BEFORE it hardens using long strokes front to rear, not circles or side to side (to minimize swirl and light reflection), then after the first waxing of the entire car, go back and spritz with water and rebuff (again by hand only.) You will be rewarded and the finish will remain for months.
Now, NONE of this applies to my TRs, the finish is just not close to that good and I doubt that Triumphs ever produced a paint job worthy of this wax. For the TRs, I take the same care of the finish but use Griot's carnauba ($20)and apply with a wax pad instead. But the principle applies. SO IMO a polisher has it place in correcting imperfections but to keep a finish looking (and feeling) great, it just takes work ... or devotion.
I have more modern thinking friends that swear by Zaino brothers paint finish - it's not wax, doesn't smell or feel like wax but I must admit it does shine nicely. See it here https://www.zainostore.com/ It's just not for me. Personally, I like the sensory enrichment of the feel, smells, and the process.
For our shop it is Dewalt.Variable speed control and light weight can really save your back and arms.A bigger issue is the pad when it comes to results(IMHO).We start with wool and finish out with foam.Try to stay away from compounds with a lot of oils in them.They are for used car detailers and the shine dies back when the oils dry-out.
MD(mad dog)
MD(mad dog)
I had a Spitfire that was chalky with splotches likely from acid rain. I wetsanded with 2500 then buffed with 3M™ Finesse-it compound with a wooly pad on a varible speed electric buffer sander from Harbor Freight. I finished with 3M™ Finesse-it Final Finsh using a eggcrate foam pad on the buffer. The results were outstanding. This was my first time and I was nervous but the finsih was terrible. I just took my time. Take care on the edges. The paint was a one stage paint not a base coat clear coat. Good luck.
Attachments
CinneaghTR
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Yes, great work, Steve.
That black stripe on your Spitfire looks awfully familiar...
That black stripe on your Spitfire looks awfully familiar...