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Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
Well ain't this just peaches and cream.
- Thread starter jdubois
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ummm... errant nut in the bellhousing... I'd be for clutch removal, flywheel too. A REALLY comprehensive visual inspection of all the parts in there to find a stud or bolt end with a missing nut. Transmixer front plate, etc. Now's the time. That nut weren't beamed in.
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And another thought, O/T tho...
Be SURE to inspect and better, just replace the diff carrier bearings in th' Ferrutzi. Nasty habit of rusting from sitting exposed to atmosphere (the diff case warms up to temp then when parked for extended periods the condensation in the case does the damage). Upper half of the bearings sit out of the lube.
I did have the Timken numbers around ~someplace~ but no idea where. Just match 'em up at a proper bearing supply house. IIRC the originals were Timken.
Oh, and replace those case studs for the diff "lid" with stainless Allen-head cap screws while the lump is out. You may never need to do it but the carrier can then be accessed with the unit in-situ.
Be SURE to inspect and better, just replace the diff carrier bearings in th' Ferrutzi. Nasty habit of rusting from sitting exposed to atmosphere (the diff case warms up to temp then when parked for extended periods the condensation in the case does the damage). Upper half of the bearings sit out of the lube.
I did have the Timken numbers around ~someplace~ but no idea where. Just match 'em up at a proper bearing supply house. IIRC the originals were Timken.
Oh, and replace those case studs for the diff "lid" with stainless Allen-head cap screws while the lump is out. You may never need to do it but the carrier can then be accessed with the unit in-situ.
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jdubois
Jedi Warrior
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DrEntropy said:
I thought about taking the clutch off, but admit I didn't. I did do a pretty thorough inspection of what I could see, plus I looked at all the parts diagrams and couldn't find anywhere there even should be a nut in there to begin with. The nut must have made it's way in there at some point when somebody had it open before.
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jdubois
Jedi Warrior
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DrEntropy said:
Actually already inspected those before the engine came out. One of the seals went and was dumping gear oil into my inner axle shaft boot. Blew it out on the highway and made a nice big cloud of brown smoke! So I rebuild both axle shafts, and inspected those bearings while the shafts were out.
Anyway, I'm having the engine professionally rebuilt (I'm not risking a $20K engine on my rebuilding skills!) and he's got those on his list to double check as well.
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jdubois
Jedi Warrior
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DrEntropy said:
Not long enough to be rebuilding the engine! I've had it about four years. It was due for a belt change and major service last year. I was going to do it first thing this spring. Now that the postmortem is all done, the trouble turned out to be a <span style="font-style: italic">very</span> worn front timing gear. That and a weak tensioner bearing spring caused the belt to jump and my valves to say hello to my pistons. The guy who did the last major didn't replace the gear when he should have! That'll teach me to put a major off for six months...
Silverghost
Yoda
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jdubois said:
You haven't seen any blind squirrels lingering around your garage lately have you?! :wink:
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jdubois
Jedi Warrior
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Silverghost said:
I think the squirrels have moved on to my Spit. Front carb float gave up this afternoon, and overflowed gas all over my engine compartment. Luckily no fire. The front jet was leaking a bit anyway, so I guess I'll just rebuild the carbs.
So... until that rebuild kit comes in, I'm now 0 for 3 "on the road". :crazy:
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jdubois
Jedi Warrior
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What the heck is the torque setting for the rocker cover hold down nuts? Why does the WSM specify a seemingly random assortment of torque settings? (For instance, it specs the gearbox mount torque but not the engine mounts!?!?)
And why do I care that much about the rocker cover torque? Because I solved all my rocker cover leaking issues years ago on my very first car (a '76 spit) by simply torquing down to the correct factory specification. Now I'm sensitive about the issue
And why do I care that much about the rocker cover torque? Because I solved all my rocker cover leaking issues years ago on my very first car (a '76 spit) by simply torquing down to the correct factory specification. Now I'm sensitive about the issue
ekamm
Jedi Warrior
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Here's a thread about the 3 cover.
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...tr3a#Post627661
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...tr3a#Post627661
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I'd say you're good t' go!
One of the nicer things about an LBC is that one person can do about anything needed. It helps to have some appropriate job-specific tools but most work can be done single-handed. I do like a second set of eyes n' hands around, tho. If for nothing more than the company.
One of the nicer things about an LBC is that one person can do about anything needed. It helps to have some appropriate job-specific tools but most work can be done single-handed. I do like a second set of eyes n' hands around, tho. If for nothing more than the company.