p. Remove together and not engine separately?;
Opinions vary. Mine (and the factory's) is that it is easier overall to remove them as a unit.
b) remove oil sump first or after pulling engine and transmission?;
Drain all the fluids first, but I would wait to drop the sump until after pulling the engine. Less chance of damage to the oil pump/pickup, etc. during the removal process.
c) remove the cylinder head, or leave it in place?
Unless you have reason to replace the rings or valves, I'd leave the head alone. But, blowing oil from the rear seal is frequently a sign that the rings are not sealing as well as they might, so that's kind of a judgement call. The rings & valves can be serviced with the engine in the car though, so no big deal if you decide they need attention later.
d) remove front cover and timing chain;
e) detach transmission, remove clutch and flywheel;
Doesn't really matter, but I would do it in the other order. Good time to inspect the timing chain tensioner and (most likely) replace it. I'd check the chain as well.
f) attach engine to engine stand? Necessary? Dangle that lovely engine from a few silly 5/16 bolts? Really?
Not 100% required but much easier and safer IMO. My right shoulder still aches occasionally from a misadventure many decades ago, using cinder blocks to support an engine I was rebuilding. And yes, just a few bolts will be plenty strong enough to support it. A single, 5/16 Grade 2 bolt is good to about 4000 pounds (but I'd use grade 3 at least).
g) remove crankshaft and check all bearings;
Unless it was just rebuilt last year, I'd plan on replacing the rod bearings. Good time to inspect the journals for wear as well.