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TR4/4A Viton Rear Main Seal

KVH

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What was the consensus here?

Best solution?

A near fix? A guaranteed fix, or just a worthy improvement?
 

bgbassplyr

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Mad Marx (contributor here) sells what appears to be a guaranteed fix.
 

TR4nut

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I've installed Chris's seal on two engines and am very pleased. I can't say I am drip free but but the drips I have aren't tracked yet to the seal. Very noticeable improvement and I like the idea of not machining off the scroll on the crankshaft. I think it is the best solution out there.
 

TR3driver

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IMO, the best solution. But, I haven't installed mine yet, so no direct experience.
 

tinman58

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I have the seal installed and I like it. No leaks from the rear mail seal at all. But make sure that you check the lenght of the flywheel bolts. You may want to shave them down so they do not protrude thru the flywheel and rub against the seal.
 

MadMarx

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martx-5

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I'm happy when I read that my invention did cure oil leaks. So far good results as it seems.


I read that you can supply the original aluminum scroll seal already modified. Is that correct??
 

TR3driver

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I read that you can supply the original aluminum scroll seal already modified. Is that correct??
New scroll seals, manufactured with the modification to accept the Viton seal, are available off the shelf from TRF & ARE in the US. Very nicely made.
 
OP
KVH

KVH

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What would be the drill if I wanted to replace my main seal:

Here's a guess, with some questions:

a) remove both engine and transmission with an engine hoist, and hope the chains don't snap. Remove together and not engine separately?;

b) remove oil sump first or after pulling engine and transmission?;

c) remove the cylinder head, or leave it in place?

d) remove front cover and timing chain;

e) detach transmission, remove clutch and flywheel;

f) attach engine to engine stand? Necessary? Dangle that lovely engine from a few silly 5/16 bolts? Really?

g) remove crankshaft and check all bearings;

h) replace main seal and reverse the above.

Is it a mistake to not remove and inspect the pistons and rings, to not remove the head and check the valves? I know this is too short a summary, but any comments on things to remove or not remove?
 

MadMarx

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Your plan is great and solid.
It is up to you how to remove the engine.
you can take out the gearbox first and then the engine or both together.
Depends on the crane you use and the machinery to tilt the engine while lifting out.

I would leave the head in place. If nothing is wrong on top leave it alone. Take the rockers off and you can rotate everything more easy.
Engine stand is great but not necessary.

If you replace seals do that on the front lip seal too. Cost not much but worth to do if the engine is in parts.
 

TR3driver

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p. Remove together and not engine separately?;
Opinions vary. Mine (and the factory's) is that it is easier overall to remove them as a unit.
b) remove oil sump first or after pulling engine and transmission?;
Drain all the fluids first, but I would wait to drop the sump until after pulling the engine. Less chance of damage to the oil pump/pickup, etc. during the removal process.
c) remove the cylinder head, or leave it in place?
Unless you have reason to replace the rings or valves, I'd leave the head alone. But, blowing oil from the rear seal is frequently a sign that the rings are not sealing as well as they might, so that's kind of a judgement call. The rings & valves can be serviced with the engine in the car though, so no big deal if you decide they need attention later.

d) remove front cover and timing chain;
e) detach transmission, remove clutch and flywheel;
Doesn't really matter, but I would do it in the other order. Good time to inspect the timing chain tensioner and (most likely) replace it. I'd check the chain as well.
f) attach engine to engine stand? Necessary? Dangle that lovely engine from a few silly 5/16 bolts? Really?
Not 100% required but much easier and safer IMO. My right shoulder still aches occasionally from a misadventure many decades ago, using cinder blocks to support an engine I was rebuilding. And yes, just a few bolts will be plenty strong enough to support it. A single, 5/16 Grade 2 bolt is good to about 4000 pounds (but I'd use grade 3 at least).
g) remove crankshaft and check all bearings;
Unless it was just rebuilt last year, I'd plan on replacing the rod bearings. Good time to inspect the journals for wear as well.
 
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