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What happens is two pipes just slide together.
When you clamp them it crushes the outer into the inner in a big ring.
You have to get the ring in the outer pipe GONE, which involves an oxy-acetylene torch, hammer, lots of twisting and mucking around, and you STILL may not get it.
They are designed to go on once, then to be cut off.

When I used to do a lot of exhaust work, I got pretty good at whacking off the part to dispose of with a cutting torch, then whichever was the old sleev, inside or out, cutting it length wise with said torch and picking out the pieces.

How long is the outpipe on the header?
There is usually enough room for a flange if you shorten it a bit to clear the body bits.

You will see stock systems have a flange to bolt onto the cast iron header so you can work on it.

A twoeared flange is all you need, but keep the ears vertical, otherwise the weight of the pipes and bounce will loosen the gasket surface.

Dave
 
That gasket is the Payen gasket, and I see nothing wrong with it, exhaust gases leaves the exhaust port are at somewhere between 1200-1400 degrees, guys if the gasket was not sealing at the header flanges, the black burn created from temps well over 1000 degrees would tell the story on gasket. There are three known gasket for the 1275 in the world, the cheap generic one, the Payen, and the large bore race gaskets, Drew has the Payen as I mentioned. I only use Payen gaskets.

Drew, almost all exhaust shops use u bolt style clamps which crush the pipe down when tightened, and make it mother to get them back off, you can get band style clamps and they will not do that.

Drew , I think it's time to call me again :smile:
 
leecreek said:
I never had a header that did not have flanges at both ends.
Click to expand...

Almost all performance headers for the A series engine have slip fit collectors, and the really good ones have a 3 into 1 collector. Pipe slip fits needs to a glove fit, but thats what a exhaust shop has pipe spreader for. The proper way to do this would be to spread the exahsut pip to slip fit over the collector, if the fit is a glove fit, and then band clamped, this would almosr insure no leak, but the slip fitis opposite of this, then this would almost insure a leak. Basicly the slip fi has to work the direction of the exhaust gases, but thats pretty much common sense.
 
Hap-
While that is true, I have never, as in ever, seen a chain muffler shop use anything but welding or standard round bar clamps.
Ever.

Maybe a higher-end specialty performance exhaust shop.....
 
If I bought a new set of headers they would have a flange on the collector before they were sent out to be coated. Just the way I want it to be done. Lazy I guess.
 
Hap Waldrop said:
That gasket is the Payen gasket, and I see nothing wrong with it, exhaust gases leaves the exhaust port are at somewhere between 1200-1400 degrees, guys if the gasket was not sealing at the header flanges, the black burn created from temps well over 1000 degrees would tell the story on gasket.
Click to expand...

Yep, when I had leak here (due to the legendary Pacesetter flange fit) the gasket was burned right through. I'm not at all sure I still don't have a leak.
 
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