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I'll now have to add that VB is the only company I've ever bought anything from, and then recieved a hand signed thank you card from them a couple weeks after my parts came. I actually thought it going a little further than most companies do, even though I spent alot of money with them. Heck, I've never recieved a thank you card from any other company, come to think of it.
 
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I have stayed out of this as both companies supply our hobbies. I have heard of the liability factor here at a regular parts store. so maybe its true.
 
Even with the internet, I was unaware there were different outlets, even ventures through forum members here. Until a week ago I was only aware of VB and Moss.
I now find myself needing parts (driveshaft) that neither appear to have in their catalogs.
I know this is a bit much to ask, bearing in mind the forum is supported by advertisers, to get a list of parts suppliers and what they specialize in, so the lesser informed casual owners/drivers like myself know where to get things, and possibly get tech assist in the process.
 
Sometimes other owners, such as those on this forum, are the best resources for parts as well as information. All you generally need to do is ask. LBC owners tend to squirrel away parts for that rainy day. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Does anybody have a driveshaft for a 1275 74 Midget Please?
A recommendation on where to get good quality U Joints would be a plus, stock vehicle nothing fancy.
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Lemme look at my used driveshafts tomorrow - & universal joints are easy to find.
 
Baz, I'd just about bet that Tony will have the shaft, and your local NAPA store should have the U joints.
What's wrong with your driveshaft? It may be repairable.
Jeff
 
Terrible noise shifting from 1st to 2nd and I can feel the rumble through the tunnel, several clunks before it settles down in 3rd or 4th.
It's impossible to 'floor' it in 1st, like an earthquake.
The engine is coming out in winter to have the gearbox overhauled, I figured then would be a good time to replace the shaft for a smooth ride.
I'll try U joints first and if that works, then great, if it still rumbles, new shaft it is.
 
Baz, if it's that bad, pull the shaft NOW! Having a "U" joint disintegrate while going down the road can be downright dangerous. If it's only a joint, and you've caught it in time, there's probably no damage to the shaft. If you wait, you may not only trash the driveshaft, but do harm to some of your tender and essential bodily parts.
Jeff
 
I'm betting its just U-joints...which you should be avble to get from Advance Auto or one of your other local stores...when you put it back in, pay close attention to the direction in which you install it.
 
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I've been driving it pretty hard today too.
Feel a little embarassed to be honest.
I'll take this one to the shop, sounds a bit over my realm of capability.
Thanks for saving my tender parts.
 
Nah, pretty easy actually - jack her up, 1/2" bolts off both ends & you drop the driveshaft & u-joints as a set...remove old u-joints & install new ones...
 
Tony, one minor correction. The '74 still has the 1275 in it, so you only have the bolts at the rear flange. The shaft slides out the tailshaft of the tranny. It can be a fiddle to get it back in, but isn't that much of a worry.
Jeff
 
Duct tape it straight to put back in. Tape will remove its self when running. Take the new U joints and shaft to a shop and have them fit them, cheep.
 
Tony: 6 steps.
Chiltons: 12 steps.
Haynes: 20,000 steps.

I'm going with Tony. Are there any torque limits to the bolts?
 
Jeff - you're right..I was thinking MGB...but, it can still be pulled out through the rear

& there's a little pressing to do to get the U-joints in, as I remember

(hate to say it but I've got to replace the clutch in my '63 Midget this winter & will redo the U-joints then also...& I'm not looking forward to pulling that little engine - as easy as it is!)
 
Baz, 20~22 ft lbs. should be right. Mark the position of the driveshaft flange and the pinion flange before taking it out, and reassemble it in the same spot. It comes out over the axle, to the left side of the pig.
Jeff
 
Tony, I think the worst part of the job on the '63 is putting the radiator and lower hose back on. Start to finish shouldn't be much over about 3 hours.
Don't forget the ground strap to the clutch slave mount bolt! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Jeff
 
Pig, pinion, flange. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
My local napa has them (tranny side and axle side) should I change both?
I'll start a thread over in Spridgets when I get going on this.
I'll say it in advance, thanks, I will need some forum assistance. Seriously, I'll call myself a novice even after replacing that evil gauge and the complete cooling system, is this honestly something I can do?
 
Baz, not to worry. You're in capable hands. Yes, you should change the joints on both ends of the shaft.
The pinion flange is the round piece on the front of the rear axle that the driveshaft bolts to.
The "pig" is the center section of the rear axle assembly. The big fat part.
I don't see why you shouldn't be able to tackle this youself. You may want to have the actual joint swap done by a shop, as they will have the fancy equipment to do it the easy way.
I've done it by the side of the road more than once.
Jeff
 
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