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TR2/3/3A Upholstery ?!
- Thread starter CJD
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Steve and John,
First, thanks for your replies -- and I apologize to you both for taking so long in acknowledging them. The holidays kept me out of the garage for quite a while.
Anyhow... My question apparently was unclear. Sorry for that. I am talking about the panel that covers the fuel tank from the inside of the cockpit.
Attached is a jpg file I created out of a composite of five images -- four from Skinner's site, and one from your post, John. If you look closely at the images, you will see a pattern: On the TR3s, no fastening screws are visible at the bottom of the cover panel; one the TR2s, a row of screws is visible. To complicate matters, the panel that Skinner sent for my TR3 has the little tab cutouts that you can see on the fifth image, which was taken from Skinner's TR3 panel kit illustration. I realize the cutouts go over the fuel tank straps; still, it is unclear whether I am supposed to put a set of screws along the bottom.
I should perhaps query Skinner, which will be my next step. But, I wanted to acknowledge your kind replies by sending this note. Again, thank you.
First, thanks for your replies -- and I apologize to you both for taking so long in acknowledging them. The holidays kept me out of the garage for quite a while.
Anyhow... My question apparently was unclear. Sorry for that. I am talking about the panel that covers the fuel tank from the inside of the cockpit.
Attached is a jpg file I created out of a composite of five images -- four from Skinner's site, and one from your post, John. If you look closely at the images, you will see a pattern: On the TR3s, no fastening screws are visible at the bottom of the cover panel; one the TR2s, a row of screws is visible. To complicate matters, the panel that Skinner sent for my TR3 has the little tab cutouts that you can see on the fifth image, which was taken from Skinner's TR3 panel kit illustration. I realize the cutouts go over the fuel tank straps; still, it is unclear whether I am supposed to put a set of screws along the bottom.
I should perhaps query Skinner, which will be my next step. But, I wanted to acknowledge your kind replies by sending this note. Again, thank you.
OP
CJD
Yoda
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Ah...It's been a while, but I think the TR3 panel has 2 metal tabs which were attached to the backing board and hung down below the panel. These tabs screwed into the floor, and were then covered by the carpet. I will look for a pic...
...found it. This is one of the tabs shown hanging down and screwed to the sloped floor panel. Decent carpet would cover it, so it does not show.
...found it. This is one of the tabs shown hanging down and screwed to the sloped floor panel. Decent carpet would cover it, so it does not show.
Last edited:
John,
I am in awe of your ability to get the forward-most piping on the seat bottom perfectly aligned on the horizontal. I have exactly the same kit from Skinner (even the same color!) but was unable to get the piping so perfect. On the cushions of both seats, the piping dips down slightly at the front. It was a bear to get those leather covers pulled tight, particularly at the front!
I also was surprised to see how much "excess" leather you have at the bottom of the seat cushions for attaching with the hog rings. Looks like you have a good 2 1/2 inches all the away around. Mine is maybe 1 1/2, yet the leather is pretty snug all around the seat.
Steve
I am in awe of your ability to get the forward-most piping on the seat bottom perfectly aligned on the horizontal. I have exactly the same kit from Skinner (even the same color!) but was unable to get the piping so perfect. On the cushions of both seats, the piping dips down slightly at the front. It was a bear to get those leather covers pulled tight, particularly at the front!
I also was surprised to see how much "excess" leather you have at the bottom of the seat cushions for attaching with the hog rings. Looks like you have a good 2 1/2 inches all the away around. Mine is maybe 1 1/2, yet the leather is pretty snug all around the seat.
Steve
I think one of the big 3 has a good instruction sheet for covering the seats on their site.
There should be a tack strip on the inside of the seat back. Then the as far as I remember the outside (back of the seat) is pulled down and under the bottom edge and tacked to the strip followed by the inside (front of the seat) is tacked over the back material.
I can get a photo if that has you confused. It is not easy to convey that kind of thing without photos.
David
The strip.
There should be a tack strip on the inside of the seat back. Then the as far as I remember the outside (back of the seat) is pulled down and under the bottom edge and tacked to the strip followed by the inside (front of the seat) is tacked over the back material.
I can get a photo if that has you confused. It is not easy to convey that kind of thing without photos.
David
The strip.
That's just what I thought, but wasnt sure.
frsmes go into primer on Sunday. Thinking the rattle can one step gloss since it'll all be covered up. Not to mention painting them in my basement since it'll be under 60 degrees that day. High temp was 20 today.
i spent a long time stripping and banging them back in shape. Welding washers in on Sunday too.
i dont have the tack strips or rivets though. Not even old ones to pattern. The old vinyl had just been glued onto the bottom pan and was peeling off. If I can find the rivets locally I will fab them. TRF's kit is reasonable though, and comes with the rivets.
frsmes go into primer on Sunday. Thinking the rattle can one step gloss since it'll all be covered up. Not to mention painting them in my basement since it'll be under 60 degrees that day. High temp was 20 today.
i spent a long time stripping and banging them back in shape. Welding washers in on Sunday too.
i dont have the tack strips or rivets though. Not even old ones to pattern. The old vinyl had just been glued onto the bottom pan and was peeling off. If I can find the rivets locally I will fab them. TRF's kit is reasonable though, and comes with the rivets.
Several upholstery questions.
In the draft excluder behind the door I noticed you have the ends neatly sown up. Did they come like that or do cut the rubber core down and sow the ends.
The draft excluder in front of the doors is attached to a covered strip. Is that TR2 only? I Was trying to decide how that area went.
David
In the draft excluder behind the door I noticed you have the ends neatly sown up. Did they come like that or do cut the rubber core down and sow the ends.
The draft excluder in front of the doors is attached to a covered strip. Is that TR2 only? I Was trying to decide how that area went.
David
martx-5
Yoda
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You have to trim the inside hollow rubber piece (about 1/2") and then stuff the outer fuzzy part into the center of the rubber. So, allow the extra length for this. I didn't allow for this and wound up gluing some fuzz on top, which actually turned out looking quite good.
Not sure what you mean by the second question, but the fuzzy seal in the front is handled the same as the back. There's also a rubber piece on the upper section of the cowl.
Not sure what you mean by the second question, but the fuzzy seal in the front is handled the same as the back. There's also a rubber piece on the upper section of the cowl.
Thank you.
What I thought but it is nice to get confirmation.
Earlier in this thread there is a photo where CJD is doing the front seals and there appears to be a thin strip that matches the contour of the door opening. He has attached the fuzzy seal to that strip then used that to finish the kick panel carpet.
David
What I thought but it is nice to get confirmation.
Earlier in this thread there is a photo where CJD is doing the front seals and there appears to be a thin strip that matches the contour of the door opening. He has attached the fuzzy seal to that strip then used that to finish the kick panel carpet.
David
dbenichou289
Member
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I just want to add that I went through this entire posting and want to give a BIG Thank You to John for taking the time to go through this whole process and to document for all of us to use. Threads like this are what makes forums like this top notch. I am putting together a TR3A that was fully disassembled before I got it (think big jig saw puzzle), so seeing how it goes together is priceless - especially the complicated interior pieces. Very well done Sir.
OP
CJD
Yoda
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Glad it helped, guys!
Something interesting...I leave the car covered with the tannau installed, so I can pull the cover and drive quickly when I get the urge. I just scrolled up through the pictures above, and found it very interesting how many ripples and creases the tannau had when I first fit it. Today (over 3 years later) the tannau has shrunk right into place with no rumples and creases at all. I have to say I am impressed with Jonathon's kit, as even though it seemed a bit loose after the initial install, everything has shrunk right into a perfect fit.
Something interesting...I leave the car covered with the tannau installed, so I can pull the cover and drive quickly when I get the urge. I just scrolled up through the pictures above, and found it very interesting how many ripples and creases the tannau had when I first fit it. Today (over 3 years later) the tannau has shrunk right into place with no rumples and creases at all. I have to say I am impressed with Jonathon's kit, as even though it seemed a bit loose after the initial install, everything has shrunk right into a perfect fit.
BBUrns8888
Freshman Member
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Mr. Durants, I want to start by thanking you for this incredible detail. I am actually embarking on the nearly identical journey with a kit from John Skinner. In fact John Skinner himself highly recommended your tutorial. Although I have read this from beginning to end, there may be something you did cover but I didn't catch which was the following question- when gluing the upholstery using contact cement onto, for example, the dash or the cockpit capping, are you applying the contact cement only to the flaps that go underneath (aka the hidden parts), or do you do you apply glue to the entire area where the leather will come in contact with the base? Thanks again! Brian
OP
CJD
Yoda
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It's best to apply the contact cement to the entire area, and on both the under surface and the back of the leather/vinyl. Allow it to "tack dry" for 10-15 minutes, and then press them together. They will stick firmly, so be sure to align the cover before the first contact! If you wait to long and they pass the tack stage, you can re-energize the cement with acetone.
The only exception would be if you think you may need to get under the cover in the future, then you could get by with just gluing the edges. I can't think of a reason for this on a TR...
The only exception would be if you think you may need to get under the cover in the future, then you could get by with just gluing the edges. I can't think of a reason for this on a TR...