• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

Tuning my Webers now

Share this page

hondo402000

hondo402000

Darth Vader
Offline
Well the TR6 is officialy back on the road, got my AF meter working and started tuning it today. my 6 has been over bored to be 2.72L mild street cam from wishbone classics, AL flywheel, 6/3/1 headers. nothing special on the coil, I didnt put the MSD unit back on. so far I have
emlusion tube F11
Main jets 120
air corrector jets 175
Idle jets started at 50F11 and drilled out to .55mm and the air corrector hole drilled to 1.25 mm,

so at 1000 rpm the AF ratio hovers around 13 to 13.5
on test driving its up around 14.0 give or take a few decimel places

I was told to shoot for around 14 for max power, with out cars 14.7 is almost impossible to hit constantly


one issue I have to work on is it has a miss at around 3000 RPM, could be electrial related,
timing is 10 deg BTDC, all plugs gapped at 0.025"

could be the gas its been in the car for 9 months

Hondo
 
Hondo, all sounds good, I vote for new high test and some octane booster.
Get really good at the Webers, then you can make a road trip when I get started working again.
You are doing a bang up job, keep up the good work.
Wayne
 
The fuel is junk!!! First step is to get fresh fuel.
 
Careful adding octane booster to gasoline that has ethanol added to it. You could be increasing the ethanol portion of the mix. If your compression ratio is fine with the high test, I'd leave the octane boost on the shelf. It won't increase your power by itself anyway.
 
If that gas has stabil in it then it shouldn't be totally shot, ethanol enhanced fuels do have dramatically shortened shelf lives.
 
well got my TR6 back home, took about 30 minutes on 485 around charlotte, crusing at 70 with the new OD, RPM aroun 2800 best I remembered. My friend followed me in my car and with cell phone technology I call and verified my speedo. 40 mph check, 50 check, 70 check so the rebuild speedo works and steady as a rock and so is the rebuild tach. now after adding new hi test, the miss is gone, but after running it on the road the AF meter is telling me its still running rich, at about 2000 its in the 13 range at 70 mph its running in the 12- 12.5 so I have one more set of main jets smaller, so I will replace the 120's with the 115's and see where I get to. so back to reading my weber manual

Hondo
 
Very neat Hondo! Sneakin' up on it! :laugh:
 
Keith
If the weather holds this Saturday plan on going out to Randy Cardosos for a Club Tech session to install Steve Ward's rebuilt TR6 motor with Webers.
1. With all the work you have done you could take some time off the install.......and
2. EVERYONE in the club would love to your car put back together! and
3. You really need to get that machine out for some gentle exercise
hope to see you
Gordon
 
Here's some good info on proper A/F ratios for carbed engines.

I'm getting pretty close to those numbers with my TR3. My engine has also been modified with larger bores, hotter cam, header, etc. I've been messing with different needle and piston spring combinations in the SU carbs. Neat stuff to play with.

You'll get it right, just takes time.
 
back to weber tuning, now that I got the oil leak fixed
replaced the 28mm chokes with the 30mm per my engine guy,
changed the emulsion tube to F15( leaner than F11),
Air corrector jet drilled to 180 from 175,which leans out the top end.
45 pump jet( may neet to go down to 40)
115 main jets.
45F11 idle jet,( this gives me a 13.5 AF ratio at idle
took it for a drive and now its running richer from 2000 to 5000 rpm around 11.5 to 12.5, above 5000 it leans out to 14
with the 30mm chokes it seems it should be running leaner, if you add more air it should lean out. So now what I did this morning, was to take some 130 mains, soldered the hold shut and redrilled the mains to 100's, then if I have to drill to I can drill to 105 and 110 and if this gets me right I will order the correts mains. cheaper than ordering more mains for experimentation, I can also go to the next leaner emulsion tube which is F16,

I can believe I would have to go to 32mm chokes, but who knows

keep you posted

hondo
 
Back
Top