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TR2/3/3A Trunnion Installation - TR3/4

Willie_P

Jedi Hopeful
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I have a 62' TR4:

Just installed (and reamed) new Trunnion bushings on new pins, etc.

I have not even torqued the castle nuts on each side of the pin down to the recommended # yet (only partially tightened them with a wrench), nor have the outer interference-fit washers fully engaged the serrated part of the trunnion pin. However, (presently) the trunnion body itself is relatively close to binding fully (I can move it inward/outward, but it's tight).

At this point, I have a few millimeters of side to side play on the shaft of the trunnion pin itself. Presumably if I tighten the outer washers entirely it will eliminate all side to side play as I've still got further distance I can tighten the washers on each side of the pin.

So, how tight (inward/outward movement) should the trunnion be in relationship to the wishbone arms? Seemingly, if I torque them down to recommended #/ft. they'll be almost immovable.

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I will also note that these are the original 3degree trunnions (new pins) that came on the car and the bushings/seals I am using are all new from Moss kit. This is the kit that includes the very thin gauge steel washers on each side of the rubber seal. From my notes and parts from the original tear-down, the seals weren't like this - but rather I think the rubber seal had a molded steel outer section as opposed to all of these very thin steel rings to surround each rubber seal(but I could be wrong). I'll go look again and confirm in a bit.

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thanks for any insight you can offer.
 
I believe you set it by tightening both sides solid, then backing off each nut 1-1/2 to 2 flats. You then have to lightly tap each arm away from the trunnion to spread the washers back out to the nuts.

John
 
Okay, CJD - that makes sense.

I'll reaffirm that I went back and checked the following:
+I had the right and Left side trunnions correctly installed.
+And that the top of vertical link had a slightly off-center/rear lean to it (i.e. I had the upper wishbone/control arms correctly installed with the rear offset).

One item of slight concern; I referenced earlier that the very thin metal washers "rings" were supplied in the rebuild kit from Moss. I used all of them as suggested on each side of the rubber seals.

However the outermost application of the metal rings - where they would be directly contacting the large plate washer which is engaged by the castle nut....well, the inner diameter of the thin metal ring is too small to fit around the stepped-down outer circumference of the large plate-washer. Therefore, I just did not use the outermost application of the thin metal rings - leaving me with four leftover.

I do wonder if using each of those four would take-up some of the few MM in the side to side. Doing this would require machining some material from the thin metal rings, though.

I am going to go and do some further research and examine the original seals I removed from the car and read the Moss catalog as well regarding these replacement seals and metal guards/rings.

wp
 
Don't worry about those rings - I know Moss calls them shims but I don't think they are intended to do anything more than hold the seals in a little better. If you set the free play as John describes I think you'll be fine.

Its probably not the rings that are the problem - I noticed in at least one purchase I made the outer washers were not machined properly to accept those rings - I think that was a TR4 only thing, probably late TR4 only with the 3 degree castor trunnions.
 
Howdy Folks,

I`m ready to re-assemble my front suspension on my `57TR3. I bought 4 Locking Washers from Moss that fit onto the splined portion of ea. shaft on the Trunnion. The Locking Washers came in "Un-Splined".

I would have to guess they should be "Splined"; Correct?

Thanx for your input.

Russ
 
toysrrus said:
I would have to guess they should be "Splined"; Correct?

Russ

No, they don't come splined - they lock onto the trunnion as you wrench them on. Just be careful, don't overtorque - some versions of those washers are very hard and don't work well. No idea if that's an issue with Moss's offering however.
 
First, thanks to all:

As a follow-up: I went back totally assembled everything as discussed (and did not use the outermost steel ring on the seals) and all seems to be fine.

It is a little stiff; as in you can pull-upward on the entire upper assembly wishbone/lower wishbone/trunnion/Vertical link and it will stay in place and not "fall" to the lower stop (ie - hit the frame rail). however, it takes very little pressure to move it up or down (one handed slight pressure applied). As well turning the trunnion laterally from side to side induces NO binding nor is there any lateral play on the trunnion pin).

my assumption is one a hub body is attached, plus brake caliper and eventual wheel - the entire assembly will move freely with the added weight.

wes
 
Wes-

That sounds very normal to me - I think you have it right. Bear in mind you don't have the roadsprings in yet, and the real fight will be between those springs and the front weight of the car - a lot more than just hand pressure.

Randy
 
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