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TR2/3/3A Trim work

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DavidApp

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I used CJD's thread to great advantage for the seats and dash covering.

I am at the carpet stage of my trim work and have a question about the Kick panel carpet.
Should the carpet be attached to a piece of hard board before it is put in the car or is the carpet just attached to the car body by glue or studs?

I have not seen any mention of a board in any of the carpet kits.

David
 
Hi David,

No idea what’s original but my kick panel carpets had no backing whatsoever. I fastened mine with snaps to the body tub.

Cheers,
Tush
 
They should be clued or snapped. The main reason is the little notch where the dimmer switch fits. If you go with a backer board you will lose that inch or so concave and when the dimmer needs clicking there is little room for the click. I found out the hard way, and it was Geo many years ago who suggested I glue the carpet for that extra room. he also added the extra room also gives a place for the foot to rest on long rides. original they were glued
 
I went through a 1/2 gallon of contact cement in my interior restoration. The pieces that you don't glue are the bottom so that if they get wet they can be removed to dry.
If you glue the center hump, leave the edges loose so you can access the bolts. The piece under you feet needs snaps or it will slide forward and interfere with the peddles. ( that would be a bad thing )

Have fun. The interior was my favorite part of the restoration.
Steve
 
I was thinking that a full backing piece was not going to work there.

I do see evidence of screws down the "A" post so the last trim job must have had something screwed there. The holes are on both sides about 1/2" back from the edge.

I am going to go with a piece of board along the "A" post edge and extend back about 3" to support the rear edge and the pop studs on the front.
That will allow me to make the cut for the dipper switch. May hve to use some glue as well.

David

sp53 said:
They should be clued or snapped. The main reason is the little notch where the dimmer switch fits. If you go with a backer board you will lose that inch or so concave and when the dimmer needs clicking there is little room for the click. I found out the hard way, and it was Geo many years ago who suggested I glue the carpet for that extra room. he also added the extra room also gives a place for the foot to rest on long rides. original they were glued
Click to expand...
 
I am going through a fair amount of it myself.

Trim work seems both frustrating and gratifying at the same time.

On the center hump should the gear lever boot engage in both the carpet and steel of the hump? Just the carpet or just the steel of the hump.
At the moment my boot is just in the steel and the front comes out when I shift into reverse.

David

STeve 1958 said:
I went through a 1/2 gallon of contact cement in my interior restoration. The pieces that you don't glue are the bottom so that if they get wet they can be removed to dry.
If you glue the center hump, leave the edges loose so you can access the bolts. The piece under you feet needs snaps or it will slide forward and interfere with the peddles. ( that would be a bad thing )

Have fun. The interior was my favorite part of the restoration.
Steve
Click to expand...
 
Just the steel. The carpet has a finished edge that goes around the boot. The boot seals to the steel to keep it quiet and air tight.
 
Hello Steve

Thank you.

I need to do something to hold it in place. Did notice a screw hole in the steel close to the boot so the PO may have had something there to hold the boot.

David
 
My boot fit pretty tight so once I got it in, it was there to stay. You could put a little contact cement on the groove of the boot if it wants to come loose. If it's so loose that it needs screws then I would put at least three screws to hold all the sides but this is not original.

The real fun is with the parking brake boot.

Steve
 
Parking brake boot went on fine. The gear lever boot seems too small a diameter for the hole. Maybe someone has done some cutting at some time. I may make a piece to add to the front section of the hole to hold it in place.
Re reading CJD's trim thread someone pointed out that his boot should be over the carpet. Not syure there is enough slot in the rubber for that.

I seem to have an aluminum windshield surround with 10 flat head screws on the inside holding the hood fittings?

David
 
I would suggest putting down some padding on the removable trans cover under the carpet; it really cuts down the noise. Plus put some padding on the main floors. Leave enough room for the shifting boot to fit tight and then put the finish carpet over the shirting boot and pad with a trim surround sewn to the carpet. They used to sell horse hair padding pre-cut but anything fibbery and heavy should. Once the padding is on the tunnel and floors the carpet stays in place.

I have a piece somewhere of a heavy black deal about one inch wide strip of a rubber plastic board that went up the A post and helped hold the fuzzy fur and carpet on the edge. I have just used sprayed glue in the past with those little cup screws, but I was going to look around and see about that one inch wide piece of rubbery fiber board. I sure miss D. Elliot at times like these because he knew a lot about originality. Geo might know he has owned his car a long time and it is a S.W. car.
 
I put Kil-mat on the entire floor. It's adhesive rubber with aluminum foil. Stops the sound and heat.

In my mind I can see this metal ring that went on one of my triumphs, around the boot. I think it was my GT6+, probably not the TR3A. Just rambling.

Steve
 
Remember the boot in my thread is for the TR2 and early TR3. Later the boot that you have, David, was left under the carpet, and the carpet had an edging to finish it off.
 
Looking at my windshield getting it ready for the car. My car came with a spare windshield glass. I notice the one in the frame has a few issues but I will not change it just yet.

I managed to get the rubber seal along the top of the frame. I noticed the frame has 10 flat head screws(Counter sunk) along the top of the frame. The Tenex studs are made up of 2 parts. Flathead screw with the tenex ball on the end and a lock nut holding the screw in the frame. Is this a known version of Tenex stud?
The frame appears to be aluminum.


David
Tenax stud nut.jpg
Windshield Tenax screws.jpg
 
According to the Bill Piggott book there were some Aluminum Windscreen surrounds on post 60,000 cars but not many as they tended to be less able to stand the force of passengers using the screen as a lever point as they got out.

The Tenax stud is a strange looking piece and I am in a dilemma as some of mine are showing some wear. Any thoughts on replacements?

I have been putting the sound deadening material throughout the car. FatMat.

David

Tenax pin and Nut.jpg
Tenax pin and Nu 2t.jpg
FatMat.jpg
 
I have read about those windshields and that is the first one I have seen. I think it is pretty cool, but finding parts for it heck who knows. Maybe Marv or there are 2 different guys in Canada that sell stuff ; the one guy Len Drake sells on line and has a very large tr3 selection. The other guy is on British Columbia craigslist.
 
I e-mailed TRF and Albert replied saying that they have them in stock. I was both pleased and surprised that they had them. Ordered a set along with the corner pieces.

I always get great service from TRF.

David
 
DavidApp said:
I e-mailed TRF and Albert replied saying that they have them in stock. I was both pleased and surprised that they had them. Ordered a set along with the corner pieces.

I always get great service from TRF.

David
Click to expand...

David, you’re famous, from Albert’s email yesterday:

Another customer, David Appleby, emailed me some pictures of his TR3A from “Drive your Triumph Day”. David had sent me some “before” and “getting there” pictures a few weeks ago of his project. I’ll ask Karen to post his pictures as photos of the week. Stuart Diekmeyer and Larry Miceli posted photos of their cars on our Facebook page for “Drive your Triumph Day”.
As you can see, David doesn’t have the windscreen on his car yet. He mentioned to me that he has an aluminum windscreen frame on his car, which was fitted to some cars originally. He was looking for the special Tenax studs that were used with the aluminum type frame and he sent me a picture of one of his old ones. Of course we have just what he was looking for and I sent him a link to the listing in the TR3 Glove Box catalog. I was kind of surprised other suppliers don’t bother with this part and only supply the type for the chrome plated windshield frames. The balls on the studs that they do have don’t look particularly round either. It seems like it would be pretty easy to ruin your aluminum frame by using the wrong studs with the short threads. If you need the correct studs for your aluminum windscreen, here’s a link to Charles’ listing: https://trf.zeni.net/TR2-TR3GB/267.php
 
Hello Kevin

Thank you.

I am always pleased with the service I get from the Roadster Factory.

Looked through their catalog but that was before I had taken the stud out to see what it looked like.
I do find their catalog more difficult to navigate at times. There will be a part I know I have seen in there but can't find it again. Case in point was the rubber pieces that go under the boot lid cross brace. Charles had written a bit about them and there was a listing. Putting together an order I thought I need those pieces but it took a lot of searching to find them.

David
 
Getting the lower windshield seal in its grove must be one of the most difficult jobs I have done in a while. Soap solution a blunt screw driver and inching along at about 1" per hour it seems like.
Very hard on the hands. Triumph must have had a better way.
Rubber slants back RIGHT?? Don't want to get it in and find it is in backwards.

David
 
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