• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Tri-carb PCV valve

  • Thread starter Deleted member 21878
  • Start date

Share this page

Bob_Spidell said:
Best install I've seen yet. Did you fab the balance pipe w/PCV line, or did it come with the DMD?
Click to expand...

Thank you! Using a Harbor Freight tube bender, I bent it up from 3/8" fuel/brake line steel tubing and did a mediocre job silver-brazing the joint, filling it in with steel epoxy and filing that to look nice. The bracket was sliced off a piece of lightweight aluminum angle. The PCV was scientifically picked by going to the auto parts store and looking for one from a medium-horsepower car that would fit 5/8" in & 3/8" out.

The DMD came with the brass barb fittings and the balance pipe was 3/8" rubber fuel tubing.
 
steveg said:
Having reinstalled the PCV, with my Air Fuel Ratio and Exhaust Gas Temp gauges, can report it had no visible effect on either AF ratio or EG temp.
Click to expand...

Good to know, but not surprising. I believe the way PCVs work is to close off under high vacuum conditions--i.e. idle--and to open under low vacuum (WOT). The amount of the 'leak' is all but inconsequential, but enough to evacuate the crankcase. To think everybody thought they were the devil's spawn when they were introduced (now, air pumps are another story).

Went to start the BJ8 today, and it barely started and wouldn't idle. Started going through the diagnostics flowchart when I noticed I'd neglected to reconnect the vacuum line to the brake servo after I adjusted the valves; now THAT'S a vacuum leak!
 
Back
Top