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trf clutch replacement

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artpart

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It looks like I'm going to have to replace the clutch on my tR6. Does anyone have experience with the TRF uprated clutch setup? It is worth the money?

Chris
 
Hey Chris-

David Graves and I just installed a TRF Magic clutch
in my '69 TR6 last month. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif

What would like to know about it?

regards,

Tinster
 
I did not, nor would I ever, install or recommend another Gunst bearing. If you read my page devoted to the clutch, you will understand why. Nothing but noise and headaches from day one.

Enough said. Others like them, but never again for me.
 
If you do go with the Gunst, use the LUK clutch and PP. It's recommended by Gunst. Apparently, the bearing is sensative to the type of "fingers" that the PP has.

I've had the Gunst installed for over a year and have had no issues with it.
 
Chris - I bought the Gunst set up about a month ago but something about it made me uneasy. I googled the "Gunst Bearing" and found this forum, became a memeber and posted it as a thread. If you use the search option of this site, enter gunst over a time period of 1 month you should find plenty.

I haven't yet installed my TRF Magic Clutch Kit with the Koyo bearing but can tell you the Koyo certainly looks beefier than the gunst did. (Refer to Pauls Site it will show you pictures). I hope to start the clutch next week and will post the outcome.
 
Soup/Chris: David Graves and I installed the
Magic clutch in my 69TR6 last month.

This photo is a "must do" to be added to Paul's
web pages. A tip of the hat to Alan for this
installation tip.

If either of you get stuck in the middle, post questions.
The install is still very fresh in my mind. Some minor
grinding of the bearing fork "tips" was required.

And replace the throttle bushings!!!!!!!!!!!

regards,

d
clutchbarmods.jpg
 
d, great picture!! But why all the extra effort?

I did buy the TRF fork/shaft kit. Everything in the gear box will be replaced including the throttle shaft bushings on the firewall.
 
Soup/Chris:

The taper pin (which is actually straight) is
a weak link in the chain of the clutch assembly.
The pin is put into extreme foot pounds of shear
every time you push down the clutch pedal.

Experience of several generations of Triumph owners
can attest most have had to replace their clutches
because the taper pin was sheared by rotation of the
fork shaft. Not because the clutch pressure plate
wore out.

This usually makes itself know by the "sticky clutch"
syndrome. That is why I had to replace my clutch.
Once inside, I did indeed find the dreaded sheared
off taper pin. I had to burn the bar in half.

My photo demonstrates how to reinforce the bearing fork
attachment and thus greatly reduce the tendency for the
taper pin to shear.

The access hole (1) is for future use in case the pin
shears off. You can attempt to push the broken piece out
and salvage everything else. If not, you must cut or burn
the fork bar in half to remove it. This results in complete
replacement of all shaft components.

The 5/16" SAE #8 thru bolt (2)reduces the shear on the
TRF 1/4" taper pin by a factor of 4. Make sure a bare
bolt shaft is inside the majority of the fork. Threaded
bolt shaft is to be avoided inside.

Use a wire tie knot (3) not just a simple twist to keep
the taper pin from rotating out due to vibration.

This is not my concept but is oft repeated by folks with
a great deal more Triumph mechanical knowledge than I have.
I simply follwed their wise instuctions and took a few
photos in the process.

I NEVER again want to go thru the ordeal of tearing the
guts out my car interior to replace a broken tapen pin.

Although I have made many great new friends as a result
of the Crypt Car journey back to the street!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/driving.gif

best of luck and keep asking questions and post
some photos.

d
 
Not if you use a nyloc, metal jam nut or loc-tite. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Soup,

I didn't see the throttle shaft bushings in the fork/shaft kit. Is it TRF kit RFK1249?

D,

The holes you drilled for the taper pin and the "extra" securing bolt...you drilled through both the fork and the cross shaft, right?

Is the taper pin available from ARP?

Chris
 
artpart said:
Soup,
The holes you drilled for the taper pin and the "extra" securing bolt...you drilled through both the fork and the cross shaft, right?

Is the taper pin available from ARP?

Chris
Click to expand...

Yes, the hole for the extra bolt is drilled through both the fork and the shaft.
No, ARP does not make a taper pin.
 
artpart said:
Soup,

I didn't see the throttle shaft bushings in the fork/shaft kit. Is it TRF kit RFK1249?

D,


Chris, I didn't buy my throttle shaft bushings from either of the big 3. Brosky, Paul, referred me to a website - https://www.McMaster.com. Also, do another search in this forum by entering McMaster in the subject over a period of one month. You'll find a posting by Brosky dated 3-2007-20. This will be very helpful.

Good luck
Click to expand...
 
Folks,

I'm replacing my 4-speed tranny with a new a-type o/d tranny since I'm replacing the clutch and was hoping y'all could help with some info.

What is the correct routing of the wiring (both to the switch on the column and the relay) and position of the relay?

Currently, the following items are on the list to change:
1) pilot bushing
2) fly wheel
3) rear engine seal
4) u-joints
5) throttle bushings

Since I'm in there what else should I plan to change?
 
The transmission that you are installing should have new cross shaft bushings already installed, so make sure that it does and that you also have a new shaft and fork. You can see Dale's post about that.

Maybe you should consider the new master, slave and braided line for the clutch as well? Nothing works without the hydraulics, so better safe than sorry.
 
Tinster - Clutch replacement is going well, a little slower than I thought but moving in a positive direction. I'll try and post some pic.s and a description afetr all said and done.

I am now at a point where I will be drilling the fork and shaft and noticed that the length of the #8 X 5/16 bolt was not mentioned. How long should I get, 1.25"??
 
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