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Trevor, you got me worried.

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regularman

regularman

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Got me thinking about flash rust since you put that in your post. As soon as I take the DA sander to all that bare metal and get it clean, its gonna want to rust. I figure I must now prepare my paint booth before I do that so the I can minimize the time between sanding and spraying the etch primer. Trying to think of other things I need to do. inline water filter, drain the tank in the compressor, print out and understand instructions for the new HVLP gun, what about a paint strainer, do I need one of those? Will they work with mettalic paint? Should I put a ball bearing or something in the cup and shake it occasionally since its metalic? I may get this car painted before my shoulder surgery. I will just have to see how it goes and not rush things. If I don't then I want to be as prepared as I can be. T'would be nice to at least get a coat or two of etch primer on it, and maybe the 2k so I could do some spot work one arm style. I will have lots and lots of taping on this car due to the fact that I have painted everything inside already. Got to put the car up on jack stands as well and get them wheels off of there.
 
I said (in that post) that I didn't want to give you something else to worry about. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

I asked about the rust, because some of it look like it had already pitted. After hitting it with a DA you may need to treat dark pit areas with some phosphoric acid, clean, and spray your etch primer.

Getting metallic flake evenly distributed is something that takes practice. Luckily, it is easier on a smaller car. I use a siphon HVLP gun with a pneumatic/magnetic stirrer.

The last time I painted metallic flake paint, the supplier provided me with a stainer/filter. It was almost completely useless. You need to a container to hold all the paint you will need and mix it in one batch to help keep the particle ratio the same (again this is where a small car helps).

I'm a hobby painter, I would hope that professionals can give you better advice.
 
If you use metal prep it can buy you a little time between removing the rust and actually applying the primer. It does something that retards rust or something. You would need to check your primer though before doing that. Some of the etching primers say to not use metal prep. I don't know why.

Like Trevor, I'm a hobby painter too and I hate to shoot metalic paint. That stirrer gun sure might halp though.

Good luck.
 
Well, I just got back from the doctor and my shoulder surgery is scheduled for the 12th which is a week from tomorrow and now its going to get cold here again. Calling for snow here on Friday /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif Oh, well. I can just spend my time getting everything ready and not commit on spraying anything and just see how it goes. Gonna be 6 weeks with my right arm in a sling and with the knee still recovering.
 
FWIW one of the guys that is coaching me through my project says spray bare metal with WD40 apparantly it leaves a residue that won't rust
 
True WD40 does leave a shellac. However, I usually just hit mine with some zinc rich primer until time to finish the body work. The stuff is easy to remove, and covers quickly. It will NOT seal out water like an epoxy primer would.
 
As I said before, forget the etch primer, go to bare metal before body work and epoxy prime it. Then body work and hi build primer, as much as needed, then color as much as needed, then clear coat.

This is not rocket science guys, just a heck of a lot of work. The epoxy stops things from rusting for your life time.
 
But Jack, he isn't sand blasting. He will have just pits that he can not remove with a sander or wire brush. He will need to do something to stop the rust.

Epoxy will not stop rust that is already there.
 
Of course got to get it all clean first no matter what you do. Got to get in the pits.
 
The only alternative to sand blasting is to chemically dissolve the rust with a phosphoric acid treatment.
 
Jack, it sounds like that epoxy primer is a lot like the Por-15 stuff that I bought. I went and bought some pvc pipe and put it up to hold the plastic for my paint booth project. I don't think I will use the big blue tarp. I had forgotten how heavy that thing is, but looking through lowes, there is no really cheap plastic any more.
 
POR-15 cures with water vapor (think super glue) epoxy primer has a different curing agent (think...ummm 2 part epoxy glue). Off course they both have a solvent as well.
 
Oooops, I got downstairs and started fooling with that large piece of plastic the blue tarp that can cover the house and my knee started hurting and I decided to have a homeberew, or two. I'll be back tomorrow.
 
regularman said:
Jack, it sounds like that epoxy primer is a lot like the Por-15 stuff that I bought. I went and bought some pvc pipe and put it up to hold the plastic for my paint booth project. I don't think I will use the big blue tarp. I had forgotten how heavy that thing is, but looking through lowes, there is no really cheap plastic any more.
Click to expand...

No cheap anything any more!!! Cept maybe that homebrew you keep talkin' 'bout!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif Or is that high priced too? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif
 
like Kim said, materials are cheap. Getting some from a homebrewer may take a little persuasion /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

FYI, 5 gallons (50 bottles) of Killians cost me $22 to make.
 
Yep, I can get out for less than 200 for 50 gallons of good homebrew. The next batch is going to be another of a clone of a beer called "old peculier". I loved the last batch and it was around 10% alc by weight, which is closer to 12% by volume. Anyways, I found my camera and here is some pictures of the stuff I have bought in the way of paint so far. I am wounded and have no business spending any more money cause the wife had been wasting money on foolish things like food and electric bills /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif Short term disability don't go far, so I am just going to have to go with what I have got so far. First is a picture of self etching primer. 2 quarts no thinning needed.
MVC-283F.jpg
Next is the 2k primer and activator
MVC-284F.jpg
Then the black for the bottom and reducer (pint)
MVC-286F.jpg
Then the basecoat and reducer for it.
MVC-287F.jpg
I was taking another pic of the speed clear for the shine but the camera battery went dead. Anyways there it is.
 
That Nason urathane primer is good stuff, you can't hardly put it on wet, it will look kinda like dry spray going on, don't sweat it, that the way it supposed to be. The Nason primer is thick and it covers up alot of boo-boos, that primers of the past used to not cover up. Mae sure you use a block sander to get work it down good and even. Yopu can't beat that primer for exterior body work.
 
Hap, do you think a quart will do it? With the activator mixed in it should be about 40oz or 2 cups full with my hvlp gun. I was hoping for at least one good coat over the whole car and then go back heavy on any trouble spots.
 
I went and bought some cheap plastic today. Cheap as in 1 mil thick. I think I can make it work. Bought some inline air filters, and a respirator and some endust(lemon scented). It was too cold here to do much. Tomorrow I shall try to hang the plastic. A funny thing, I showed my dad all the paint today and he just shook his head, then when I told him it was going to be yellow, he got upset. He is the type that thinks all cars should be painted red, especially a midget.
 
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