• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Transmissions

Share this page

Ok then, fine. Question, are those shift forks supose to move. Gesh thse do not even want to wiggle at all allthough all else in the shifting train does try a bit. Do they move in tandom or what? How would I free em up? Still reading book and trying to muddle through parts diagrams, etc.
 
Ok, how do you get the shift forks to move? The rest of the shift system seems to work ok and is free. Those brass things just will not move.
 
They are the "selector forks" and are supposed to move one at a time, depending on the rods moved by the shifter linlage. If the shifter won't move, try pouring some light oil on the gears, etc. inside the box first... but it sounds like you may have shift linkage issues, too. Can you rotate the input shaft by hand?
 
Marvel oil to start with, just to be certain things are getting "wet". It should run motor oil normally.
 
Oh yea, input shaft and output shaft rotate nicely and all the bits turn.

It is the rods that the shift forks are on that will not move, the pins (plungers for fork rods) are not out, soaking them with pb blaster as we speek, not sure what they have to do with anything though?

All the shifting stuff is nice and free at this point but for the forks and the rods they are mounted to,
 
You may need to remove the rear extension housing and linkage. Sounds like linkage may be bound up in that part, but the only real way to tell will be to remove things 'till you find the problem. You may just be fighting some corrosion.
 
Let's see if the problem is in the box or the linkage, Jack.

Remove one of the locking/positioning screws in one of the shift forks... loosen the locknut and wind the pin-bolt right out. Then try to move the fork back and forth over the gear...BE CAREFUL not to take it too far or you'll have detent balls and springs escaping. Just to see if it's the rods or the gears that are giving you the problem.

Lube stuff in there, too.
 
Under the springs the side cover holds down are some detent balls... spritz some Blaster down there too... the balls may be rusted in place preventing the rods from sliding. Matter of fact, I think that's your problem.
 
I think so as well, the shift forks are not frozen the gears turn smoothly under them. Think it is in fourth.

The rods that the shift forks ride on are solid as a rock. All else through out the transmission moves free and easy, smoothly, etc.

Have bp blaster in the detent holes, springs came out with black tar kinda stuff, cleaned good with carb cleaner and filled with blaster. This may take awile but I am sort of conveienced that is where the problem lies as well. I see nothing else that could cause the problem.

Someone please jump in if you think I have this scoped out incorrectly. Damb those gears are nice, as is everything in there, I would swear that all is new.

Jack
 
Well I guess for my next trick in a few days, I will drill a smallish hole in the tops of those plungers and thread a smsll longish screw in them so I can get some leverage to work em out. Only solution that I can see or think of.
 
Them "pellets" are HARD, Jack. I don't think you'll have any success with a drill. Keep Blaster in there, and see if you can get some to wick around the rods too. A piece of wood and the BFH to ~gently~ start tapping the forks may get you some movement too. Bit at a time now. From the photos it's in neutral... if you can't spin the input shaft and hold the output shaft still, there may be more problems.
 
Noop shafts are fine, seem to be spinning one to one which is why I said forth gear. All the stuff turns and moves and is smooth as silk but for the rods. Think I will kind of turn it up on end a bit and try to get some to go down the shafts as well.

In fact, from the little I know now about transmissions, which is becoming a lot, I would say this one has very very low miles if any on it. Heck I can see a bit of the syncros even and from what I can see no wear there either.

Have been taping the forks one very lite tap then the bolt one very light tap and am starting to get a bit, just a bit of movement. Will keep after it with my small, very small hammer lightly, like a door mouse.
 
Good lad.

*tap-tap* *tappety-tap-tap-tap*...

"I HEAR somefin... sounds like... like elves. Elves with leetle tiny hammers."

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
Jack, did you remove the locking bolts holding the rods to the forks? That will make the rods easier to move, as you won't be trying to force the gears. There is a divot in each rod for the set screw, so the forks will reinstall in the correct position.
Jeff
 
Noop did not do that, will do tomorrow, I now have netural and first gear. This is a bit of a pain.

Have blaster and spray oil soaking overnite, tomorrow is another day. Intresting how that thing works, dumb manual does not even attempt to educate one on that subject, guess you are supose to go to a school. Hehe, school is out in my garage. This is the first time I have ever had to mess with a transmission, quite a learning experence.
 
They're FUN! A very neat package. Keep bein' gentle and once you get the rods free'd up... I gotta say this... it would be a good idea to remove front cover and tail shaft to get the detents out, CLEAN the bores they're in, inspect the rods and clean 'em well. Reason being: if the car will sit for even a short time the existing corrosion is going to give you the same problem again. Worth the effort now to get it well cleaned. Heck, you've got spare detents 'n springs sittin' in that Morris box beside ya!
 
Ok, the shift rods, all of em now move freely. Took the forks loose and worked em till they are a drop in fit.

Reverse detent works fine as well. However, the 1-2 and 3-4 detents will not come loose and I see no way to get at them, even tried a coat hanger from the inside.

Question will they go all the way in, ie could I push em into the hole for the shift rods and worry them with a small screwdriver at that point to free em up a bit?

Or are they short enough that they will fall into the shift rod hole if pushed that direction, I have no idea of there length??
 
IIRC, if you remove the rear shaft extension and the front cover, remove the locator bolts from the shift forks and pull the rods to the rear far enough to clear the front of the case you can push the detents out into the holes the rods ride in. Then you need to retrieve them with needle-nose or suchlike for cleaning & inspection. A brass "gunbarrel" wire brush for cleaning the holes in the case for the detents/springs is a good idea, too. Oil soaked paper towels stuffed in the case to catch any stray "swarf" is good insurance against getting "grit" in the tranny case.
 
Oh excellent. yep gota be clean in there, turn it over when all done and squirt carb cleaner into the transmission till it runs clean, then do it again a couple of times. shrug.

Yep yep, got all that, and rods will pull out with fingers now, hehe. Off to the garage, more later.
 
You got it. Now, how's about some help bashin' a kernel update onto this Fedora Core 5 server I got here? ATI's vid card won't allow X86 to load, ATI has a proprietary driver I downloaded/burn'd but Fedora keeps tellin' me it can't mount the CD-ROM drive either... *mumble-mumble*
 
Back
Top