TR6 Transmission seals

[gbtr6]

Since I have my transmission out as the engine is at the machine shop, I thought I'd replace the front and rear seals. They seem to leak. How difficult are these to replace?

Perry

 

[trrdster2000]

The front will need a gasket along with the seal, the rear is easy enough after the rear hub is off. A couple of bolts in the holes and a large screwdriver will hold it enough for a air wrench to take off, after getting the split pin out. They make a set of different
size tools to get seals out.

Wayne

 

[poolboy]

You may want to replace the selector shaft seals, too.

 

[trrdster2000]

Perry, just a quick note. There is a bolt at the top left on the hub that has a copper washer on it and needs to have a new one installed when you put it back, it goes through to the oil chamber in the gear section. Same for the oil freeze plug on the back of the engine, if I remember correctly. Just a couple of things that can go wrong, if you don't know it.

Wayne

 

[gbtr6]

When putting these seals back in, is there a special way to do it, or do they push in pretty easily.

Perry

 

[trrdster2000]

Perry, the correct size socket or bearing installer would be nice, but just take your time. The front one will go with a small hammer on a flat surface, the rear needs a socket or a something with a wide surface area that will fit between the shaft and the wall, just keep going around. Correct seal position is important. Take note of the lip position. The front one needs to have some attention taken to the splines. Wrap a small sheet of aluminmum over the splines betfore you push on the new seal. If your splines are sharp they can put a small cut in the seal, that will show up quickly and negate all your work.

Wayne

 

[ed_h]

All good advice. Here are some pics to help illustrate. More at https://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-24/TR6-24.html

Ed

 

[CJD]

The only hard part is that there is no way to get behind the front seal to drive it out. Then, it's rather deep, so a little tricky to get a grip on the other side. It takes some fiddling with a seal remover or screwdriver to get the old out. the new one taps right in without a problem.

 

[gbtr6]

Thanks for input. I have some dental tools that I am going to try for removing the seals. They are like picks and hooks. Only issue is, you damage the old seal on extraction so you better get it out.

Perry

 

[CJD]

I don't think dental tools will do it. The rubber portion of the seal is bonded to an outer steel ring. The ring is the hard part to pull out. It takes a substantial screw driver or seal puller to get it out, and a vise to hold the housing while you pry.

 

[gbtr6]

Well found out the dental tools were not good enough. I had high hopes for them. Has anyone gotten these out with a pick set? What is the, secret?

Perry

 

[trrdster2000]

Perry, file a flat head screwdriver sharp on one side only, then drive it between the front seal plate and the seal in a couple of places. You should be able to pry it out now. The rear one needs a small seal puller and requires for you to pry it out, don't be gentle, you are not going to reuse it.
Harbor Freight and a couple of places sale these in about 4 sizes in a pack. They work for several things so invest in a set.

Wayne

Perry, as a side note, have you ever checked the rear spot welds on your Z3, in the trunk toward the front of the car. Check it out on the net, it was a bit issue as they hold the whole rear end in place. Wayne

 

[gbtr6]

Wayne, thanks for the tips. I went on Harbor's website and they have a seal puller, and a seal and race installer kit. I am also going to check with Autozone if they have anything in their loaner program.

As as for the BMW, we have a Z4. Not sure on the welds on it. I know the top drains are an issue. Not too much wring with them.

Perry

 

[titanic]

I have had good luck with this seal puller on the rear trans seal and diff pinion seal. Don't waste your time on the HF clone, it bent on the first use.
https://www.carid.com/lisle/adjustable-seal-puller-mpn-56750.html?gclid=CODV69SKn8cCFciFfgodHV8HJA
The front seal usually requires mangling with a screwdriver, as mentioned.
Berry

 

[ed_h]

I don't remember having any trouble with this, and I don't own a "seal puller". Not even sure what they look like.

I'm sure I either pried them out with a screw driver or knocked them out with a drift. Two minute job, if that.

Ed

 

[LarryK]

Be sure to put some grease on the rubber before sliding it on. I have taken and drilled a small hole in old seal, insert screw and pull. There are seal pullers too. Masking tape on shaft works too.

 

[gbtr6]

I ordered the O rings for the selectors and hope to put them on without removing the shafts from the top cover. I think the ends of the selectors come off with perhaps allen bolts? Anyone have any ideas? Also, I hope I can get the rear seal out in situ, only removing the rear flange. Again, any ideas?

Thanks,
Perry

 

[ed_h]

1st-2nd and reverse shaft ends come off with square head bolts on the top side. I don't believe the 3rd/4th end comes off easily.

Ed

 

[gbtr6]

Ed,

Thanks for the help. Is there any caution to removing the shafts? I know there are detents in the cover, and I don't want to take the cover too far apart. I am just doing the seals at this time.

Thanks,
Perry

 

[CJD]

The center (3/4) shaft has a small rod about mid-way, that is inside the shaft. There are also 2 balls between the 1/2 and reverse shafts and the center shaft. If any shaft is removed, you will have to remove the ball and then make sure it is re-installed correctly. In other words, you can't just remove the shaft and then stick it right back in. You have to install the balls by tilting the cover so gravity keeps the balls in position.

The detente are more obvious. Just unscrew the plug and remove the detent ball and spring.