Transmission removal Quickie

[Tinster]

A quickie question;

I am about to begin replacing the Crypt Car's clutch:

Is the transmission unit hoisted over the passenger
side door or the driver's side door?

Should I remove the steering wheel as well?

thanks

Tinster

 

[bash]

Hi Tinster

I think it would be a lot easier to go out of the passenger door - you could remove the steering wheel for access to the nuts at the bellhousing flange, but I didn't and had no great problems. I found it is easier to get the gearbox out if you have two people - one lifting from inside the car and the other underneath pushing up - this gives a better chance you can get the gearbox out without damaging the input shaft, or so I figured.

Hope that helps
Alistair

 

[Tinster]

Alistair-

Many thanks!! Hopefully, this will not be a
total nightmare, given the grim condition of the
tranny to engine interface.

Once I get some bolts to connect the tranny and engine,
I will attempt to get the Crypt Car started and over to
an old MG mechanic who has agreed to install the TRF Magic
clutch and all the driveshaft replacement pieces.

Hey a favor if you will. The on-line info you sent to
me a while ago? My user name and password will not
let me in. Can you help me with this?

thanks as always,

Dale

 

[Guest]

Dale, removing the tranny is a bit tricky. First, you need two people, both with strong backs. Get the car up in the air as high as you can on 4 sturdy jack stands. This is imperative in that the bottom guy (NOT your wife) will need enough room to maneuver around and push up. I would say at least 24" off the ground. The top guy (again, NOT your wife) will grab the tranny from the top and help muscle it onto the floorboard. He can use the shifter tunnel for a grip. The tail of the tranny will be unbolted and all bolts removed from the tranny. This is the scary part. I hope like heck that the PO left the 3 studs in place atop the tranny. These will support the unit. A piece of 2x4 wood, beveled on the top end will support the engine for the duration. This can be jambed against the block and in front of the engine plate. Again, tricky in that the engine needs to be supported before the tranny is removed. May have to use your jack and a block of wood against the oil pan to slightly lift or lower the engine fractions of an inch to get just the right attitude for the tranny to slide back. Remember, the 2x4 wooden support will be the final rest for the engine in approximately a level position with the tranny off. The tranny is heavy, about 100 lbs. Be careful! We hope there are studs in place. A strong flashlight might be able to see them through the back of the tranny at the top.
The tranny may have to be pried off the back of the engine with a large, stout screwdriver. It has to go back and up at the tail, this is where the jack will come in handy on the oil pan. It has to go back a few inches to clear the shaft. Don't let it rest on the shaft, lots of muscle needed to keep it supported in the removal phase. Some have used an extra jack to support the tranny from the bottom. Once it clears, it is all muscle and a few curse words to get it up on the floorboard. Once you start, you really can't stop. Like sex. Godspeed.

 

[Guest]

Oh, and don't forget to remove the clutch slave cylinder and hang it with some stout wire off to the side, without jerking on the hydraulic hose. And, the start has to come off first as well. Make sure the battery is disconnected.

 

[LastDeadLast]

Dale,

I was able to remove and install the gearbox with only myself doing the work. I purchased a cheap transmission jack which helped tremendously. Although I did make many up and down trips, I was able to remove it (from the passenger side) without too many problems.

 

[Tinster]

Just wondering;

I just tore out the remainder of the PO's carpet
from the rear deck behind the seats. Just underlayment
glued down tight to the horizontal deck surface.

On either side of the rear deck is a bolt and washer.
I am guessing a body to frame mounting assemble.

Except for the two bolt heads, the rear deck is covered
with about a very uniform 1/8" layer of black asphalt compound. The black compound does not extend to the
vertical surfaces.

The surface is not even but has geometric indentations
similar to the floor pans.

Is this black layer a factory install or is it yet another
grim surprise the PO has left for me to discover?

d
This black layer appears very neatly installed

 

[Guest]

That's factory sound deadening material.

 

[swift6]

That black stuff is factory installed damping material for NVH (noise, vibration & harshness)

 

[Geo Hahn]

Dale I did mine solo and used a few 5/16 bolts about 3" long with the heads cut off and a screwdriver slot hacksawed in the end where the head was.

Inserted in place of bolts (or where the bolts are missing in your case) they let the gearbox slide backwards with good support until past the point (about 1.25") where the input shaft is clear of the clutch.

After that the weight is taken up by a cheap tranny jack (as noted above) or just a guy named Jack or whatever. Then remove those bolts. Once that input shaft is disengaged you have some freedom of movement & will need it. On a TR4 the bellhousing needs to rotate about 10 degrees CCW then back up.

I removed the steering wheel as on a TR4 it is a simple 2-bolt removal and really helps because the handbrake is very much in the way of a passenger side exit. On a 6 with a tunnel-mounted handbrake I expect the way out the passenger side is easier.

 

[Tinster]

Thanks for the tip George.

the 5/16" by 3" bolts w/out heads?
Are these for bolts or dowel guides?

Does thread matter? If Bolts, what threads?

I have found so many different thread configuations
in the Crypt Car. A salad bar mixture of metric, America
Slovenian, coarse, fine, stipped clean, etc.!

d

 

[Tinster]

"That black stuff is factory installed damping
material for NVH (noise, vibration & harshness)"

No kidding?? I stumbled upon something the DPO
didn't mess with and ruin?

I mean, other than glueing all that jute directly
to the deck. A molding, stinky mess to clean off
before I install the new wool carpet.

Hey Bill!! Looks like I got a freebie as to chipping
away at the 10K !! lol

d

 

[Tinster]

Once I got the tranmission cover off,
I found tons of oil and grease all over
the unit. Here is a photo of the tail end.
The front portion was dry and no oil.

Are there any major problems spotted here?
If so, I need to order parts before I pull the unit.

thans as always-Dale

 

[swift6]

That doesn't actually look that bad. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif I've seen dirtier. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif

 

[DrEntropy]

Yup. Not horrid at all. I've done a few single-handed... takes a bit of patience and some engineering. Bill covered it well. One thing about this task nobody has mentioned: Do NOT get your digits between a body panel edge and that gearbox! And the machined-face edges of the bell housing can slice ya, too. Just a caution to be aware of.

 

[Brosky]

Judging from the picture, I'd say that you need the top transmission gasket and the seals that go around the shifting shafts. Naturally, the rear main seal and tailshaft seal along with the pilot bushing, but I think that you already have those in your previous parts orders.

 

[Tinster]

Thanks Paul-

I'll order the top gasket and pilot bushing.
Yes, I ordered the other two.

D

 

[brdave]

I just removed my gearbox for a clutch replacement last week. After jacking up the gearbox slightly with a jack, I wedged a 2x4 piece of wood between the rear of the engine and the firewall. I no longer had to deal with a jack under the oil pan etc while removing the gearbox and then wondering what to do with it after the gearbox is out. I then attached a rope around the rear of the gearbox where the prop shaft is attached. With a floor jack below the gearbox at the drain plug just to support it, a friend stood in the car tugging etc on the rope and I had the room to hover over the passenger floor to do any required engineering etc. Do not put your fingers anywhere especially between the gearbox and engine while assisting. The gearbox popped off so easily it scared me. Now resting on the floor jack it was just as easy as sliding it over the floor (protected with cardboard) and out of the car. The engine still sits where it was with the wood block in place waiting for reassembly It was just too easy!
Good Luck
Dave

 

[Brosky]

Dale,

I'm talking about the (1) gasket #41 and the (3) seals #63 that fit into the retaining plate which holds the shafts in place. See Moss catalog link: https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32768

 

[Guest]

Mine comes out today...engine attached.

Benefits of taking the whole shebang out: get to do maintenance on areas of engine compartment otherwise unaccessible, don't break my fragile back (or neighbors'), can roll car around for welding outside garage, get to re-paint engine or touch-up, check for exhaust, oil and fuel leaks (what leaks?), reinstall tranny using slide dolly because engine is sitting on wooden frame, and on....

Reason not to do it this way: ROYAL PIA