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TR6 Transmission Leak TR6

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No doubt, Toyotas are nice cars. But I'd rather drive a Triumph.

And no way am I going to trade my 7-speed semi-automatic for a 5-speed manual!
 
BobbyD said:
My TR6 tranny & diff both leaked like a sieve at 22 years old (1997) when I got the car. The Toyota 5 speed is out of an '82 Celica, so it was 25 years old and dry as a bone when I installed it. All I did was replace the seals and change the fluid. The Nissan diff however was only about 10 years old when I installed it after changing just the main pinion seal and fluids. This thing is so dry that I'd be surprised if it developed a leak.
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OK an 82 Toyota tranny is better than a 75 Triumph tranny because it doesn't leak..You made your point.
I imagine there are lots of things better than what Truimph put in their cars. We can swap things out until the only thing left Triumph is the sheet metal.
Me, I guess I've been fooling with old British cars long enough that I kinda knew what I was getting into and was willing to live with it.
So go ahead and make your comparisons, do your swaps; I think I'll refrain from doing that. I learned a long time ago that I don't have to have "the BEST" of everything to be happy...can't afford it anyway.
 
poolboy said:
OK an 82 Toyota tranny is better than a 75 Triumph tranny because it doesn't leak..You made your point.
I imagine there are lots of things better than what Truimph put in their cars. We can swap things out until the only thing left Triumph is the sheet metal.
Me, I guess I've been fooling with old British cars long enough that I kinda knew what I was getting into and was willing to live with it.
So go ahead and make your comparisons, do your swaps; I think I'll refrain from doing that. I learned a long time ago that I don't have to have "the BEST" of everything to be happy...can't afford it anyway.
Click to expand...

And on that note PB I'm outta here.......some guys keep them original, some guys like to tinker, some like to drop in a V6 or V8, some like modern "upgrades"..... if I had to have "the BEST", I'd be sitting on a Ratco frame and a $10K paint job and have a couple of cars to play with.......... I ALSO learned a long time ago that I don't have to have "the BEST" of everything to be happy...can't afford it anyway.
 
NO on the toyota transmission. I can cut a round gasket and put it on before the washer on the output shaft and that will solve the transmission leak, now for the front and rear oil seals, I got the nut off the rear output shaft, the shaft was a little buggered up, fixed that, question is what should the nut be, my gauge says 16 threads per inch, bought a lock nut for same and will not screw on very easy. So did someone put the wrong nut back on, Books says 3/4 UNF

so no Idea unless I just reuse the old nut and put a lock washer on it, also when you put the rear seal in I can actually drive it in past flush. so should it go all the way in till it bottoms out? and the front seal is a bear to get out too

Hondo
 
and PS on the bronze bushings, the previous wrench monkey, took one and cut it in half in effect the bronze bearing for each sid of the shaft was only 3/8 inch wide

HOndo
 
I pulled a shaft out of the parts bin and checked; it's 3/4-16 (UNF). Depending on the type of nut you bought, it may not be supposed to thread on easily (hence the locking action).

The gasket sounds like a bad idea to me, there is supposed to be quite a bit of force involved so the gasket would likely split anyway and might even leak worse.

Don't think it matters how far you drive the seal in, but I just put mine flush. Easier to get out next time :laugh:

Front seal is definitely a pain. Last time I wound up cutting away the inside of the seal, and then using a hammer and punch to collapse the outer ring so I could grab it with pliers and lever it out.

Don't mean to be argumentative, but your photo above sure looks like the stock TR6 bushings, which weren't bronze but were about 3/8" wide.
 
Ok maybe the clutch shaft bushings were only 3/8 inch wide the new ones installed are more like 1 inch wide, so better there. As far as the gasket, its only 1/16 thick gasket I cut that the same size as the metal washer that goes on before the lock nut, so, round gasket, washer, lock nut, really cant see how thats going to affect anything but to cover the splines on the shaft and the splines on the output flange, hence stop oil from passing thru, Going to give it a try anyway. Also I purchased 3/4 x 16 lock nut, and one regular nut to run it on and make sure it goes on easy, I am guessing by looking at the shaft that somenone was beating on the shaft end and might have flared the end a little. so off to WT Tool to get a tap and retap the end of the shaft. then the tranny will be finished.

Hondo
 
hondo402000 said:
I am guessing by looking at the shaft that somenone was beating on the shaft end and might have flared the end a little.
Click to expand...
Ugh, sure hope that's all that is wrong. If they managed to bend the shaft, you'll never keep it sealed or fix the vibration.
 
so where did you read that I had a problem with vibration??? and I even thought the shaft was bent? lets not change the subject and get everone on another tangent. NO bent shaft and NO vibration problems, I chased the threads with a tap and all it well, put the output shaft back on and added a gasket prior to the washer so we will see what happens.

closed!!!

Hondo
 
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